Took off Resonator
Just took off my resonator. My car sounds (is) so powerful at WOT now! I just love it. I agree with everyone, you have to floor it all the time, the sound is just too good to pass up! To any of you out there that want your car to sound better for absolutely FREE, just take off your resonator! I've heard the CAI's at the meets, and it sounds the exact same, you just don't get the looks under the hood. I HAVE NOT put in a K&N/Comptech filter, yet. Thinking about it, will let you know on if there are any changes when i do so. Plus, you can throw the resonator back on just as easily as you can take it off. Heres whats involved in the install. Note I have a Canadian car, dont think there is a diffrence but just as a note. I had a hard time finding install for this so I'm going to post it. You have to remove the front bumper, which is NOT HARD and takes about 30 min. Please don't be threatened by the bumper, it is easy and well worth it!
1) Open the hood. You will see a black plastic guard connected to the top of the silver grill with the "A". Remove the "push-pin" plastic bolts with a flathead screwdriver, by lifting them up and then pulling them out. There are tiny ones on either side of the silver grill. These are tricky, you'll see why when you look. What I did was stick the screwdriver inbetween the headlights and the grill. Then push the pin part up out of the screw a little. Be careful, dont scratch the grill! Once the pins are up, you can lift them up now with the screwdriver and carry on.
2) Lift off the plastic once all the plastic bolts are off. Now there are two more connected to the frame and the silver grill. Remove them. Now the grill is free, which is connected to the bumper.
3) Now we remove the bumper. Go under the car. there are about four (if my memory is correct) plastic pins in the bottom of the bumper. Get down on the ground :p, and pull them out. Now there are two bolts (these are REAL metal
) connected to each splash guard at the far right and far left ends of the bumper. Remove them.
4) I would get two large towels (i used bathroom, but hey, I don't have personal higene
) and lay them flat out on the ground underneth the bumper. You can set the bumper on them once its off. There is one screwbolt (ya its a word
) at each end of the bumper left. The easiest way to locate them is go the the top of the tire, move left until you see the top portion of the bumper, its just under that. Remove them on each side. I used a screw driver, you can use a 10mm, I think, if you wish. Now the bumper is half free. There are little clips along the front of the bumper just holding it in place. All you do is carefully pull the bumper out. Maybe a little pushing up and in then out in the area of the clips, it will eventually come out. Just set it on the towels, DONT pull it away from the car, or you'll rip off your fog lights
. You COULD undo your fogs and set it on your lawn, but I see that as more work and more dangerous (scratch potential) then what I did.
5) Now the good part! Take off that resonator! To the left of the front left tire you'll see a black plastic box. Yes, that's the little bastard! Three screws hold it in. You'll need an extension for one. Just remove them, pull down on the box a little, and it'll slide right out. I kept mine, you should too
. I just threw the third screw in the box, the other two stay attached to it.
6) Just reverse the steps and put the bumper back on. Now, start your engine, warm it up a bit at 3000, then little go down, then PUNCH IT! Yeeeaah. That's what you like to hear
. ENJOY!
Note: I am in no way responsible for the gas you waste listening to your beautiful VTEC.
I'd like to thank everyone for all their info they have posted. Especially Bitium for that really excellent review on CAI's!
Moderators, maybe you could add this to a "removing your resonator" section in FAQ? Or update the CAI install a bit. No offense, I had a hard time figuring out what to do with the instructions here. maybe it is because I have a Cdn car, but I dont think they are different.
1) Open the hood. You will see a black plastic guard connected to the top of the silver grill with the "A". Remove the "push-pin" plastic bolts with a flathead screwdriver, by lifting them up and then pulling them out. There are tiny ones on either side of the silver grill. These are tricky, you'll see why when you look. What I did was stick the screwdriver inbetween the headlights and the grill. Then push the pin part up out of the screw a little. Be careful, dont scratch the grill! Once the pins are up, you can lift them up now with the screwdriver and carry on.
2) Lift off the plastic once all the plastic bolts are off. Now there are two more connected to the frame and the silver grill. Remove them. Now the grill is free, which is connected to the bumper.
3) Now we remove the bumper. Go under the car. there are about four (if my memory is correct) plastic pins in the bottom of the bumper. Get down on the ground :p, and pull them out. Now there are two bolts (these are REAL metal
) connected to each splash guard at the far right and far left ends of the bumper. Remove them.4) I would get two large towels (i used bathroom, but hey, I don't have personal higene
) and lay them flat out on the ground underneth the bumper. You can set the bumper on them once its off. There is one screwbolt (ya its a word
) at each end of the bumper left. The easiest way to locate them is go the the top of the tire, move left until you see the top portion of the bumper, its just under that. Remove them on each side. I used a screw driver, you can use a 10mm, I think, if you wish. Now the bumper is half free. There are little clips along the front of the bumper just holding it in place. All you do is carefully pull the bumper out. Maybe a little pushing up and in then out in the area of the clips, it will eventually come out. Just set it on the towels, DONT pull it away from the car, or you'll rip off your fog lights
. You COULD undo your fogs and set it on your lawn, but I see that as more work and more dangerous (scratch potential) then what I did.5) Now the good part! Take off that resonator! To the left of the front left tire you'll see a black plastic box. Yes, that's the little bastard! Three screws hold it in. You'll need an extension for one. Just remove them, pull down on the box a little, and it'll slide right out. I kept mine, you should too
. I just threw the third screw in the box, the other two stay attached to it.6) Just reverse the steps and put the bumper back on. Now, start your engine, warm it up a bit at 3000, then little go down, then PUNCH IT! Yeeeaah. That's what you like to hear
. ENJOY!Note: I am in no way responsible for the gas you waste listening to your beautiful VTEC.
I'd like to thank everyone for all their info they have posted. Especially Bitium for that really excellent review on CAI's!
Moderators, maybe you could add this to a "removing your resonator" section in FAQ? Or update the CAI install a bit. No offense, I had a hard time figuring out what to do with the instructions here. maybe it is because I have a Cdn car, but I dont think they are different.
You now have to add the comptech High flow filter
One of the resons the CAI and the short ram give you HP is because you remove the resornator thus giving you better gains. If you add a highflow filter to the airbox is the same as the CAI cone filter. So why waste $200 dollars
One of the resons the CAI and the short ram give you HP is because you remove the resornator thus giving you better gains. If you add a highflow filter to the airbox is the same as the CAI cone filter. So why waste $200 dollars
Can you explain your theory as to what the resonator does, and what benefit there is in removing it? (Oyther than making more noise?).
A resonator as I understand it can be tiuned to reduce the turbulence in the induction system, thus reducing noise, and improving airflow.
A resonator as I understand it can be tiuned to reduce the turbulence in the induction system, thus reducing noise, and improving airflow.
On my Accord, the resonator resided in the same spot, inside the passenger side fender, but its air intake was still within the engine compartment. Im not sure if its the same in the TL-S, but if it is, removing it would get allow it to suck in cooler air from inside the fender instead of warm engine compartment air.
I dont think the resonator improves airflow. I believe its sole purpose is to reduce engine intake noise. The numerous openings create waves which cancel each other out from what I remember reading. On a Teg Type R for example where noise was not an issue, air was drawn in from the fender while the GSR had a resonator with air being drawn in from the engine bay.
I dont think the resonator improves airflow. I believe its sole purpose is to reduce engine intake noise. The numerous openings create waves which cancel each other out from what I remember reading. On a Teg Type R for example where noise was not an issue, air was drawn in from the fender while the GSR had a resonator with air being drawn in from the engine bay.
The sound ia signifigantly better. There is no question about that. I have noticed little chirps into second now that were not present before. The pull SEEMS a little more solid, but hey, your brain can trick you. The chirps into second can't lie though, so I would say it may increase airflow. But for what you get and what you pay, I just can't see why anyone would not do it. If you havn't done it Rage I'd surely suggest it, if you are questionable on the CAI. Which, in my opinion is a little pricey if you can just go with this.
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http://media.siemensauto.com/mediace...prjob_num=1031
Yes, you can lose power!
Few on this Forum seem to understand that the resonantor not only silences induction noise, but can aide performance by reducing turbulence. Siemens points this out in the above thread.
The turbulence is the resonance one hears when the resonator is removed. The physical principles are based on Helmholtz resonators.
Turbulent air reduces smooth airflow.
It is a good idea to remember that our cars are designed as systems, and monkeying around is a hit or miss exercise. Removing the resonantor may make the car sound faster, but I doubt it actually is faster.
Here is another ref from a Volvo technician:
"The advantages you have with the stock air box has a few levels. Your Volvo's airbox is engineered to act as a Helmholz resonator to improve cylinder filling in the low-to-mid rpm range. Its volume, and that of the intake manifold and
associated piping, are of sufficient size as to allow free breathing. The most restrictive portion of the intake system is, therefore, the air filter itself. Which is why a drop in foam filter can be helpful. Testing has shown though that the stock filter can more than handle the breathing requirements. "
Yes, you can lose power!
Few on this Forum seem to understand that the resonantor not only silences induction noise, but can aide performance by reducing turbulence. Siemens points this out in the above thread.
The turbulence is the resonance one hears when the resonator is removed. The physical principles are based on Helmholtz resonators.
Turbulent air reduces smooth airflow.
It is a good idea to remember that our cars are designed as systems, and monkeying around is a hit or miss exercise. Removing the resonantor may make the car sound faster, but I doubt it actually is faster.
Here is another ref from a Volvo technician:
"The advantages you have with the stock air box has a few levels. Your Volvo's airbox is engineered to act as a Helmholz resonator to improve cylinder filling in the low-to-mid rpm range. Its volume, and that of the intake manifold and
associated piping, are of sufficient size as to allow free breathing. The most restrictive portion of the intake system is, therefore, the air filter itself. Which is why a drop in foam filter can be helpful. Testing has shown though that the stock filter can more than handle the breathing requirements. "
Originally posted by VipeR-ACR
The sound ia signifigantly better. There is no question about that. I have noticed little chirps into second now that were not present before. The pull SEEMS a little more solid, but hey, your brain can trick you. The chirps into second can't lie though, so I would say it may increase airflow. But for what you get and what you pay, I just can't see why anyone would not do it. If you havn't done it Rage I'd surely suggest it, if you are questionable on the CAI. Which, in my opinion is a little pricey if you can just go with this.
The sound ia signifigantly better. There is no question about that. I have noticed little chirps into second now that were not present before. The pull SEEMS a little more solid, but hey, your brain can trick you. The chirps into second can't lie though, so I would say it may increase airflow. But for what you get and what you pay, I just can't see why anyone would not do it. If you havn't done it Rage I'd surely suggest it, if you are questionable on the CAI. Which, in my opinion is a little pricey if you can just go with this.
Not to say one way or the other that it does something or not, but my car chirps in second and it's bone stock. Personally, I'd spend the $200 and get the CAI which is actually designed to improved performance......
acctually an expert awhile ago came on the cl board and reported that by removing the resonator they gained more than a CAI in the area of 17 hp im not sure if this was at the crank converted claim or an at the wheel claim ...this set up is similar to the comtech ice box setup
Read Bitium's post. http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...ight=resonator He claims the CAI and removal of resonator produce very similar effects. As far as bumper removal, ya it SOUNDS tuff. But I can't stress enough that it isnt as hards as it sounds. The only hard part is removing it from the hidden clips, you have to pull it off carefully.
no need to remove wheel or bumper for lower res removal. nor do you need to jack up the car...just turn the tire to the right...remove speed tabs on the splash gaurd under the car and you may want to remove the first to screws on the fenderwell cover you can easily get to the two bolts nessecary to remove the lower resanator. my question is do you remove that rubber boot thing? its between the stock box and lower res???
Dude what are you talking about!!!!
The link you posted says this :
The Siemens ISIS car is unique in that it features nearly 20 technologies, all of which are production scheduled during the next three years.
So how those that implies in the resonator that our TL's have?????? They are talking about something different.
Just wondering what do you have on your car?? to make say this:
Have you dyno tested all products to say that you can lose power??
Now I understand what the technician said:
This is the reason I think the foam high flow filter from comptech and removing the resonator is better than the CAI. Because the air box seems to keep a certain pressure in the intake tube, so when you OT at a low rpm range, you get a instant effect thus more air flowing to the manifold. This is said that what I notice the most on my setup is when you are at a low rpm range and you OT it fells like the power is there and it is noticeable.
The link you posted says this :
The Siemens ISIS car is unique in that it features nearly 20 technologies, all of which are production scheduled during the next three years.
So how those that implies in the resonator that our TL's have?????? They are talking about something different.
Just wondering what do you have on your car?? to make say this:
Originally posted by Road Rage
Yes, you can lose power!
Yes, you can lose power!
Now I understand what the technician said:
The The advantages you have with the stock air box has a few levels. Your Volvo's airbox is engineered to act as a Helmholz resonator to improve cylinder filling in the low-to-mid rpm range. Its volume, and that of the intake manifold and
associated piping, are of sufficient size as to allow free breathing. The most restrictive portion of the intake system is, therefore, the air filter itself. Which is why a drop in foam filter can be helpful.
associated piping, are of sufficient size as to allow free breathing. The most restrictive portion of the intake system is, therefore, the air filter itself. Which is why a drop in foam filter can be helpful.
The one thing I noticed when installing my CAI was that the stock airbox forces the air to travel at 90 degrees before entering the engine. In addition, when I removed my stock filter, I noticed that only the small center portion of the filter got dirty, meaning that you would have to clean the filter more often than a CAI setup, where airflow comes from 360 degrees around (since apperantly the air is not distributed equally over the flat filter). I wouldnt think the stock setup with just the drop in filter and removed resonator would produce greater airflow unless you somehow pipe the air comming in from underneath the front grill and use some sort of funnel, like ram air on camaros or firebirds. If I had an older model TL, I would just do like one of the moderators did and cut out the fake fog light assembly and pipe a hose directly to the left hole.
Originally posted by edgalang
The one thing I noticed when installing my CAI was that the stock airbox forces the air to travel at 90 degrees before entering the engine. In addition, when I removed my stock filter, I noticed that only the small center portion of the filter got dirty, meaning that you would have to clean the filter more often than a CAI setup, where airflow comes from 360 degrees around (since apperantly the air is not distributed equally over the flat filter). I wouldnt think the stock setup with just the drop in filter and removed resonator would produce greater airflow unless you somehow pipe the air comming in from underneath the front grill and use some sort of funnel, like ram air on camaros or firebirds. If I had an older model TL, I would just do like one of the moderators did and cut out the fake fog light assembly and pipe a hose directly to the left hole.
The one thing I noticed when installing my CAI was that the stock airbox forces the air to travel at 90 degrees before entering the engine. In addition, when I removed my stock filter, I noticed that only the small center portion of the filter got dirty, meaning that you would have to clean the filter more often than a CAI setup, where airflow comes from 360 degrees around (since apperantly the air is not distributed equally over the flat filter). I wouldnt think the stock setup with just the drop in filter and removed resonator would produce greater airflow unless you somehow pipe the air comming in from underneath the front grill and use some sort of funnel, like ram air on camaros or firebirds. If I had an older model TL, I would just do like one of the moderators did and cut out the fake fog light assembly and pipe a hose directly to the left hole.
You CAN do it without removing the bumper, but one of the bolts is way the frick up there and in the dark. It would be a major ***** to do it without the bumper off. I think it's easier and less work to just take off the bumper.
Was thinking about removing the resonator on my car but have a couple of questions.
1. How much louder is the car without the resonator? I know that people have said that is much more noticeable when you floor it but how loud is that?
2. Also how hard is it to put the resonator back in once removed?
1. How much louder is the car without the resonator? I know that people have said that is much more noticeable when you floor it but how loud is that?
2. Also how hard is it to put the resonator back in once removed?
Originally posted by dj5
Was thinking about removing the resonator on my car but have a couple of questions.
1. How much louder is the car without the resonator? I know that people have said that is much more noticeable when you floor it but how loud is that?
2. Also how hard is it to put the resonator back in once removed?
Was thinking about removing the resonator on my car but have a couple of questions.
1. How much louder is the car without the resonator? I know that people have said that is much more noticeable when you floor it but how loud is that?
2. Also how hard is it to put the resonator back in once removed?
2. Easy. Once you take it out, just reverse what you did to put it back in.
Originally posted by VipeR-ACR
You CAN do it without removing the bumper, but one of the bolts is way the frick up there and in the dark. It would be a major ***** to do it without the bumper off. I think it's easier and less work to just take off the bumper.
You CAN do it without removing the bumper, but one of the bolts is way the frick up there and in the dark. It would be a major ***** to do it without the bumper off. I think it's easier and less work to just take off the bumper.
I can't stress how easy it is to take out the bumper. I only did it once and it took me 5 minutes tops. A few clips under the hood on top. A few clips underneath. Two bolts on each side (4 total). Then pull. Only hard part is sometimes the clips can be a pain to pop open. You have to have the right size flat-head screw driver. Stick it in and rotate 90 degrees to pop the clips out.
As for performance, I have not dynoed but I can tell you guys this. I installed a short ram w/o taking out the resonator and all I felt or heard was the sound, which I liked of course. But I didn't feel any increased performance. Once I took off the resonator, I felt a much better response from my car when I give it gas. It feels like the car has much more torque.
I think with the sound the important note is it is only at WOT. This is becuase there is a bypass valve (excuse term) that open in the air induction system when at WOT. So if you want to be quiet, but wanna go fast, give it 3/4. Let me tell you, I had my friend step on it as I waited at the side of the road. At WOT, it's loud. But in a good, way. It sounds like no other car I've heard before. And It sounds beautiful. I'd recommend anyone on this forum to take it off becuase you can put it back on the same way you got it off. As far as performance, I notice a stronger more consistant pull. Nothing to serious obviously. I havn't got the filter yet. Looking into it. Also wanna get me a set of Denso Iridium's.
The Siemens post discusses how a resonator can aide performance.
I often use my brain dyno to evaluate "miracle" products.
Edgalang: Just because the dirt is not distributed evenly does not mean much. Further, right angles and all else only have relevance if they cause the engine not to get adequate air to combust the fuel. It does. Adding "more" would only add power if the engine were not getting adequate air in the first place. A typical 4-cyl needs about 150 CFM to make power - adding a pipe the size of a sewer main to give 1000CFM will not raise HP output.
I agree that the sound may be hot roddy, and that throttle response can be improved a bit - I for one am not willing to give up adequate filtration to get that, and the K&N does not cut it for me in that regard, based on objective tests I and my colleagues performed years ago (it involved counting silicon crystals imbedded in grease applied uniformly to three evenly fed airfilters via a scanning electron microscope). The results in order of filtering: Foam. paper, gauze.
The CAI may be good for racing where WOT is the norm - for street driving, one wants to optimize low/mid RPM power, which is what the factory setup does, as the Volvo post was trying to
I often use my brain dyno to evaluate "miracle" products.
Edgalang: Just because the dirt is not distributed evenly does not mean much. Further, right angles and all else only have relevance if they cause the engine not to get adequate air to combust the fuel. It does. Adding "more" would only add power if the engine were not getting adequate air in the first place. A typical 4-cyl needs about 150 CFM to make power - adding a pipe the size of a sewer main to give 1000CFM will not raise HP output.
I agree that the sound may be hot roddy, and that throttle response can be improved a bit - I for one am not willing to give up adequate filtration to get that, and the K&N does not cut it for me in that regard, based on objective tests I and my colleagues performed years ago (it involved counting silicon crystals imbedded in grease applied uniformly to three evenly fed airfilters via a scanning electron microscope). The results in order of filtering: Foam. paper, gauze.
The CAI may be good for racing where WOT is the norm - for street driving, one wants to optimize low/mid RPM power, which is what the factory setup does, as the Volvo post was trying to
Originally posted by liutang
As for performance, I have not dynoed but I can tell you guys this. I installed a short ram w/o taking out the resonator and all I felt or heard was the sound, which I liked of course. But I didn't feel any increased performance. Once I took off the resonator, I felt a much better response from my car when I give it gas. It feels like the car has much more torque.
As for performance, I have not dynoed but I can tell you guys this. I installed a short ram w/o taking out the resonator and all I felt or heard was the sound, which I liked of course. But I didn't feel any increased performance. Once I took off the resonator, I felt a much better response from my car when I give it gas. It feels like the car has much more torque.
Are you sure you know what you are talking about
When you installed a Short ram you do not used the resornator any longer so keeping it there or taking it out does not make a difference.
Originally posted by Road Rage
I made a CAI out of empty Zaino bottles...I used a doughtnut for the bypass...it sounds Baaahhhhdddd!
I made a CAI out of empty Zaino bottles...I used a doughtnut for the bypass...it sounds Baaahhhhdddd!
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