I have a Pearl White/Tan 2002 Acura TL Type-S. It is in brand new condition with 122,000 miles. The only damage it has is two small door knicks. I have used my Acura to tow my Kawasaki Ultra 250X (jetski) and have used it to load it into the water. A couple of times, I have ignored the Premium Only and put Regular gas in there a few times. Maybe 3 tanks at the most. It ran fine on it though. Since then, I am running Premium only.

I got in the car to go to lunch 2 days back and it hesitated to start. Once started it idled extremely low and shook. It felt like it was going to die. The VSA, /!\, and CHECK ENGINE light came on. I went around the block and came back scared I would be stranded.

I drove the car home, about 22 miles. It runs fine but it idles really rough and sounds like its going to die. I took it and put it on the machine to see if any codes come up. It said something about Emissions. I drove it up the road and back. On the way up there I gave it a little gas, probably reved up to about 6k. After that, lights went off, and it idled fine and ran fine. Then after a while it would have the problems again. I haven't had time to take it to the Honda dealer. (Acura dealership is 80 miles away)

Last night I got in the car and turned the key halfway (When the radio comes on, etc.) The car was off and I noticed if I pushed the brake, the radio would go off. And if I pulled the window switches up, the dome light would go dim.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Something is wrong with the exhaust, causing the motor to choke which is causing strange idle.

2. Something is wrong with the exhaust, causing the motor to choke which is causing strange idle. Since the motor is not reving normally while sitting still the Altenator is not producing enough charge to run lights, windows, radio etc.

3. Something is wrong with the Altenator.

I REALLY love this car and do not want to trade it. If it is something major I might have to though...

If you have any suggestions or experience with this problem please let me know.

Thanks alot!

 

Others have suggested that one of the coils may be bad, with the rough idle and shaking symptoms.

 

Coils?

What is that, I'm sorry.

 

hitting the brake peddle and the radio turns off? you must be grounding out some where... and about the window switches making the lights go dim.. your just creating a draw on the battery causing the lights to go dim.. is the car starting at all?

 

The car starts and will run. It just idles rough (Almost dies, RPMS are scary low) and all the VSA, Check Engine lights come on.

I experienced the electrical problems with the engine off, and the key was turned all it would go before the engine starts. If that makes sense.

 

the idleing problem could be a mis-fire or it could also be the IAC valve.. and since you were saying something about the emmissions, i would also take a look at the EGR valve. and it never hurts to run seafoam through the engine!!!!

 

Coils are what fires the plugs, one for each. What is your battery voltage, with engine off, no load, & with engine running?

 

How do I check the voltage?

And what does Seafoam do?

 

With a volt meter. No offense, but if you don't know that sort of thing, consider taking it to a trusted mechanic to have it checked.

 

Thats what I'm thinking. And I'm not offended. lol

I will be taking it to the dealer soon. I'm also looking at a Jeep Cherokee Limited that I will use as a tow vehicle so my Acura won't have to pull the jetski any more.

I really love this car! Now, about those transmission problems....... lol

My tansmission doesn't have any problems except sometimes it doesn't have the "rubberband" feel between gears like it used to have. And it sometimes shudders but really doesn't any more.

 

Check and change your air filter

 

First thing: When you back into the water you must disconnect the trailer lights or you risk a lot of problems- wet grounds and connections
When you unplug the tralier- there is no power to the trailer lights- which can be the source of the problem

Next- What Code was it?- the number= like P101. Those are CLUES not diagnosis
but we can work from them
Sudden rough idle is most often failure of 1 ignition coil- with codes saying 3 or 4 coils are bad- its really only 1

Avoid the dealer- we can work this out for you- they get codes for 4 coils they want to sell you 4 coils!
There should be a local honda acura-import car specialist near you.
Parts stores like kragen will read the codes for you for free

The egr valve doesnt usually fail- the egr ports inside the intake manifold DO get carbon plugged and cause rough idle- but not like you are describing
Its good to pull the manifold and clean everything at 100,000 miles with the timing belt job.

Seafoam removes carbon and crud buildup in the fuel injectors when used 1 16 oz can in 1/2 tank of gas
In the intake manifold it cleans the crud off the valves and pistons- makes engines run like new

How are your spark plugs. Part of the 105k miles service is recommended- many of us change them at 70 to get max performance and mileage

 

dont sweat the 3 tanks or regular- you're back on the good stuff- no worries on lasting performance problem

 

Does it rev easily or does it feel like restriction in the exhaust system?
Cat convertors go out, and if you got yours hot then wet/cold many times...
Muffler shops are happy to inspect the system and advise on cat or rear muffler needs.
They have to document- for the govt.- every cat replaced and why- so its not like they try to sell you something that wont help

But check the codes again and report back before spending money anywhere guessing

 

get her checked by a profesional. its free.

 

Plugged EGR ports and/or EGR valve needs replace. I just went through this. Your car is dying when you step on the brake because you've got it in gear, and the idle is so low, it's stalling because of the poor idle. Get the codes pulled by someone who knows what the hell they're doing to verify where the fault lies, and go from there. My bet is you've got plugged EGR ports.

 

If your battery/alternator is on the outs, you can experience this. I did, when my battery was about to die. IT would hold just enough charge to start the car, and then allow the alternator to charge the battery.

When you come to a stop, something adjusts to keep the charge and can drop your revs due to the load.

Since I've replaced the battery there have been no issues.

I ran the car over to kragen who checked my volts, alternator was good, battery was near dead. Tried a little extra acid, it was missing something, but the next day same problem. New battery was only $80.

FYI - batteries are normally only good for 5 years. The date it was made is on the battery under your battery cover.

 

Most batteries--- in this tightly cowled engine compartment and resultant high heat environment -which is very battery unfriendly,,,,
Most times you are lucky to get 4 solid years, and the battery is toast- may go slowly over a month, or seem one day to just stop

the gen3s are losing battery at 3 years!
This would be part of ~go to the parts store for testing~ we keep saying- they will check the electrical system for free. They will pull codes for free

5 year battery and 33 mpg- rob has a blessed car~

 

IN fairness, the first battery lasted 5 years, this one only 3. Might be my increase in start-stop driving.

Otherwise, it's a great car experience Oh and life is good too.

 

I have a co worker whose battery gave it up after only 2 yrs.- 2006 Mustang.

 

Sounds electrical. Battery or alt. What are the codes.

 

Took it to the local Honda Dealership. They put it on the machine and said it was the Idler Control Sensor. Not sure the codes. Left it there all day, $427.00 later I had a new sensor.

$50.00 to put it on the machine, picked it up today and it was totally detailed. Cleaned better than I can do myself.

Drove it home, runs fine. RPMs are smoother on acceleration. They even took me to work in a 2008 Honda Accord with Sunroof, Leather, etc. Acura has more pep though. Called at five till 5 to see if they needed to come get me to pick up my car.

Also got told I have a "NICE RIDE" and I just need to get my transmission flushed. They guy said he really liked my car and it was nice.

 

Good to hear.

 

Yeah, glad to have my baby back! It just begs you to give it more gas when leaving a light.


My aunt goes racing teen boys in her Chrysler 300M. LMAO. The guys friends were making fun of him.

 

You are back in business

 

let the modding begin?

 

Ok dude im pretty sure its two things either real shitty gas or u gotto change the gas pump not enough fuel gettin in the engine so dats y it idles n bumps n im pretty sure its the pump

 

Im also pretty sure i didnt read u got it fixed so im pretty sure i was wrong!!