Stein

Well, at least I planned on doing a DIY, but almost all of the pictures are useless in explaining how to do your own timing belt because of the impossible angles. But, it is NOT as hard as people say and CAN be done yourself.

I hit 104,500 miles the other day, went to Acura to see how much they'd charge for timing belt and water pump replacement. They told me $950. What a scam. Went to my mechanic, he said he's never done a 2000 TL, but would try for $650. I figured it wasnt worth it, so I ordered the belt, pump and various O-rings and seals for $110 from Delay Acura (best prices on the internet.) The only tools required: 1/2" drive 19mm socket (3/8" can't take the torque), 15" T-Bar for 1/2" drive socket (like a rachet that doesnt rachet. This is important. I broke 2 Craftsman rachets with the crankshaft pulley bolt), 20" extension for said socket, a 3/4" diameter breaker bar (ie.Metal pipe as long as you can find that will fit around the T-bar. Mine was 72") and the usual metric socket set, a mirror helps, hammer, vise, etc. I have an impact wrench, but didn't use it.

If you don't already own it and want to do this job yourself, BUY THE HELMS MANUAL. Its the absolute best $60 you'll spend on your car, even if you don't do a lot of work on it. And it really helps for this job, although it's really not mandatory. All in all, it cost me less than $180 and took 5 and a half hours (and I spent at least an hour looking for tools and screws), also took a good bit of skin off my knuckles, looks like I was in a mean bar fight.

If you have any specific questions outside of the manual's scope, let me know. One major tip: I've heard horror stories about people lining up the TDC marks and the camshaft pulleys exactly where the manual says to line them up, and the engine not actually being at TDC, meaning either bad performance and an engine light or BOOM. So I came up with a method to make absolutely sure the teeth were perfect. After the covers and engine mount are off, but BEFORE the auto tensioner and idler pulley are loosened, take white-out (the brush kind) and mark the belt and pullies on the TDC marks on the camshafts and 180degrees from the little metal bar on the crankshaft gear. Make sure to differentiate which is which. Then, after you get the old belt off, paint the same marks on the new belt using the old belt as a template. Just line up the marks when you put on the new belt (start with the crankshaft as the manual says, and try to keep the pulleys on their marks.) I think this was the reason it only took 5.5 hours. Good luck.

fsttyms1

good job. im been intending to do mine as soon as i hit 200k (at 179k now and not worried)

PeteTLS

Really?? I know they build in some margin, but they 'suggest' at 105K. Wouldn't it be safer to change now rather than risk the worst?? Or are you one of those daredevils that rips tags off mattresses, too???

serious note...are these interference engines?

fsttyms1

im not worried in the least and im not a daredevil. ive never had issues with hondas belts and have had over 200k more miles on original honda belts than i have now.

now as for teh mileage rating on the belt, that is generated by "average" miles per year of the daily driver and to get to those figures it would take 6-8 years for that, and durring that time the belt could dry out and thats when issues could arise. i have inspected my belt and it has no cracking or dryrotting. yes i am well aware of the interference type engine we are running.

PeteTLS

Ok...experience counts. BTW, I was asking if these were interference engines, not 'reminding' you as if you didn't know. I didn't know and figured you would. I've been known to run a good bit past 'recommendations' for various part changes, but the timing belt makes me real nervous....

SatinSilverTypS

iTrader: (1)

i just helped finish up a timing belt job on a legend today and that same question came up. i *think* they are not intereference engines but i can't find anyone to back me up. i think i need to call the service department and ask, because that would really really suck if the answer is yes and the belt went at random.

SSTS

ou sig

what are intereference engines?

SatinSilverTypS

iTrader: (1)

well, the simple explanation is that the piston and the valves occupy the same area in the combustion chamber at some point in the combustion cycle (although they're not supposed to at the same time, hence the "timing" aspect).

the problem here is that if the timing belt snaps, some valves will happen to be open and partially in the combustion chamber. when your pistion comes up for the compression stroke it will hit and bend your valves and essentially ruin your engine.

this was more common on older cars with timing chains from what i understand. someone else may have a better explanation on this, but if i recall this should be the whole story.

SSTS

SwampGas

I used to own an 88 Legend before I got my TL....I recall reading on the old Legend forums that a broken timing belt would indeed damage the valves and pistons, causing the need to replace the engine.

fsttyms1

the TL is a Interference engine

fsttyms1

oops, i guess i miss read that and thought you were pointing that out to me .... insert smack head here