Timing Belt
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
Timing Belt
Doing my t-belt this weekend. Anyone have any tips/hints to keep in mind going in?
My dad & I will be doing it (wasn't going to go pay the dealer $1,000). He did my sister's '01 V6 Accord 8 months ago, or so.
He's service manager at a dealership, so we'll be doing it at his shop.
Thanks for any help
My dad & I will be doing it (wasn't going to go pay the dealer $1,000). He did my sister's '01 V6 Accord 8 months ago, or so.
He's service manager at a dealership, so we'll be doing it at his shop.
Thanks for any help
#2
You're fortunate to have a father experienced with Honda automobiles. Just take your time and make sure that you do all the involved PM parts while replacing the T-belt in your TL....which will be similar to the Accord V-6 setup. It'll work out !
#3
I doubt you will, but if you need a video of an Acura/Honda specialist doing a fuckin fantastic HOWTO (long) video of this job, check this out here:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanua...cement-vmanual
He doesn't charge for 99% of his videos, but that one is well deserved.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanua...cement-vmanual
He doesn't charge for 99% of his videos, but that one is well deserved.
#4
Moderator
Thread Starter
Well, first attempt, fail.
Crank pulley bolt stopped us in our tracks. Broke a 1/2" impact trying to break it loose. Picked up the special tool to hold the crank pulley & had 2 12" breaker bars with 3' cheater on them, everything was bending, but no movement on the bolt.
Will be taking it to a friend of my dad's to have him do it for us.
Will also be ordering a new crank pulley bolt & a crank seal in case we need to resort to a torch.
Crank pulley bolt stopped us in our tracks. Broke a 1/2" impact trying to break it loose. Picked up the special tool to hold the crank pulley & had 2 12" breaker bars with 3' cheater on them, everything was bending, but no movement on the bolt.
Will be taking it to a friend of my dad's to have him do it for us.
Will also be ordering a new crank pulley bolt & a crank seal in case we need to resort to a torch.
#6
I used that honda tool that keeps the pulley from moving. A 22" breaker bar was used and 4ft of pipe over it. Did it by myself....I put my whole weight on the pipe by jumping on it. Several tries like that and it broke loose with a loud bang!
#7
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Thread Starter
So, just hoping the time bomb that is my timing belt holds up until we can get it back into the shop.
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#8
I've run into several that wouldn't budge even with the old starter trick. I finally gave up and bought a good 3/4" impact wrench. Haven't had a problem yet, but sometimes you really think the bolt is going to break!
#9
Moderator
Thread Starter
I'll be buying a spare bolt, just in case.
#10
Moderator
Thread Starter
Does a 98-02 V6 Accord use the same crank pulley bolt as the 3.2TL? There is a Honda dealer right next door to my office & it would be a lot easier to stop in there than fight the traffic another 20-30 minutes past my house to the Acura dealer.
#12
Moderator
Thread Starter
Bump, can anyone else confirm it's the same part as a 98-02 V6 Accord?
#13
Have you tried cross referencing the manufacturer's part #'s.
It's really difficult to know for sure when dealing with various models and years, but one would be inclined to think that it should be a common part. But, who really knows for sure ? Ask the Pros !
Get the Acura part # which is specific to your TL's model year and call the local Honda parts dept. I have a similar situation with the nearest Acura dealer being about 40 miles away, while the Honda's within 5 miles. They actually service Acuras and can access all the part #'s I need, and usually at a much better price !
It's really difficult to know for sure when dealing with various models and years, but one would be inclined to think that it should be a common part. But, who really knows for sure ? Ask the Pros !
Get the Acura part # which is specific to your TL's model year and call the local Honda parts dept. I have a similar situation with the nearest Acura dealer being about 40 miles away, while the Honda's within 5 miles. They actually service Acuras and can access all the part #'s I need, and usually at a much better price !
#15
Honestly, does anyone have any "actual data" on how long a 2G original and/or OEM timing belt lasts? (mileage)
Please don't just quote conservative factory recommendations - - I'm talking real data on how many miles and years they'll last...
For instance, I have an '03 TL with 94k miles that's was driven by a Senior citizen since new, til last year. I wasn't planning on replacing the TB/WP til we got to at least 130k miles. Have any FAILED below 150k miles (or more)??
Please comment. I'd love to hear real data, not just opinions.
PS: good luck with your TB replacement, but I hope to wait another 20 or 30k miles....
#16
Moderator
Thread Starter
A little sarcasm behind the "time bomb" comment.
The belt looked good visually when I had the covers off on attempt #1.
The belt looked good visually when I had the covers off on attempt #1.
#17
so..... no one has any mileage data when timing belts have actually broken???
Obviously no one wants a broken timing belt, especially on an "interference" motor, but both belts I've personally had replaced (at the recommended mileage) still looked "new".
So, anyone ever hear of a TL belt failing before 150k miles?
Your data could save the OP and others some zzzzz's.
Obviously no one wants a broken timing belt, especially on an "interference" motor, but both belts I've personally had replaced (at the recommended mileage) still looked "new".
So, anyone ever hear of a TL belt failing before 150k miles?
Your data could save the OP and others some zzzzz's.
#18
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
^Just think about it. The people that made the car say to replace it at 105k. That doesn't mean that the belt is expected to last 105k, as there is a +/-% for each vehicle depending on conditions.
In order to keep the t-belt service at a safe mileage while keeping maintenance cost of the car low, the engineers decided on 105k miles as the mark. That means the belts should be able to last on average around 150k-200k.
Then again, someone's ran 400k without doing it, so it's up to you. I personally haven't heard a case where the actual t-belt snaps.
In order to keep the t-belt service at a safe mileage while keeping maintenance cost of the car low, the engineers decided on 105k miles as the mark. That means the belts should be able to last on average around 150k-200k.
Then again, someone's ran 400k without doing it, so it's up to you. I personally haven't heard a case where the actual t-belt snaps.
#19
For the most part, I agree with Karanx7. The chances are very good that the original factory installed T-belt and associated parts could last well past the recommended 105k setpoint. But, after that the risks go up depending upon the type of service and maintenance which the car had during this initial period of time.
Once the car has reached a point of 10 years or 150k, you've got more than your money's worth out of the T-belt and other components. Unless you are the original owner and have precise knowledge of how the car was maintained and the conditions which it was subjected to, it's always safer to take a pro-active preventative mentality on the suggested replacement of parts susceptible to deterioration (IE: rubber). Extremes in temperature along with the effects of constant rpm movement and potential contamination can weaken rubber.
After the original T-belt and components have been replaced.......all bets are off !!!!, as you're basically at the mercy of the installer's skill along with the replacement part's quality. So ya gotta ask yourself, "Do Ya feel lucky ????
Once the car has reached a point of 10 years or 150k, you've got more than your money's worth out of the T-belt and other components. Unless you are the original owner and have precise knowledge of how the car was maintained and the conditions which it was subjected to, it's always safer to take a pro-active preventative mentality on the suggested replacement of parts susceptible to deterioration (IE: rubber). Extremes in temperature along with the effects of constant rpm movement and potential contamination can weaken rubber.
After the original T-belt and components have been replaced.......all bets are off !!!!, as you're basically at the mercy of the installer's skill along with the replacement part's quality. So ya gotta ask yourself, "Do Ya feel lucky ????
Last edited by 3.2TLc; 03-05-2013 at 08:44 AM.
#20
No such data is possible. All belts have inherent tolerances and are subjected to varying mileage, time and environmental and performance conditions so as to make any such data redundant, if not contradictory.
The 105K schedule is just a general rule. Sure, you can go over it, perhaps substantially. But you can risk what you can afford.
The 105K schedule is just a general rule. Sure, you can go over it, perhaps substantially. But you can risk what you can afford.
#21
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
No such data is possible. All belts have inherent tolerances and are subjected to varying mileage, time and environmental and performance conditions so as to make any such data redundant, if not contradictory.
The 105K schedule is just a general rule. Sure, you can go over it, perhaps substantially. But you can risk what you can afford.
The 105K schedule is just a general rule. Sure, you can go over it, perhaps substantially. But you can risk what you can afford.
The engineers have recorded data for these things, and use varying conditions as part of the experiment. The varying conditions would be the independent variable, while the dependent variable would be the belt's tolerance.
There is no way anything mentioned here could make the data redundant or contradictory. If you find the belt lasts a shorter time in certain conditions than others, that's valid and sound data.
#22
Yes, it's just data. Data will not tell you how long YOUR belt will last. One guys's belt broke at 90k....another guys broke at 250k. There is no crystal ball within the data that will tell you exactly how long YOUR belt will last so you can change it 5k prior and get the best bang for your buck. Why is that so difficult to understand?
#23
Moderator
Thread Starter
Going for attempt 2 tomorrow.
Driving the car to a shop that belongs to a friend of my dad's tonight & starting on it tomorrow morning.
Also doing the RR wheel bearing & probably egr cleanup.
Driving the car to a shop that belongs to a friend of my dad's tonight & starting on it tomorrow morning.
Also doing the RR wheel bearing & probably egr cleanup.
#24
Mr.Helpful Diagram
I checked mine at 225k it had cracks all over it, caught it on time I got lucky. Heres some videos of the timing belt replacement its 2 parts removal and installation. As for the crank pulley I just used a breaker bar with a good 19mm 6 point socket if remember right and hit the starter for a second. Hope it helps
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