tpeek

Which metal piece is my throttle body?

My air intake hose from my air filter goes into one metal piece, then converts back to rubber. It continues on for another 4 inches, then goes into another metal piece with the throttle cable behind it.

I took off hoses on the first set of rubber air take. A small amount of coolant got onto the rubber airtake hose. I also unscrewed an electrical piece from the front side of this first metal piece.

Something came up right then, so I put everything back on (before spraying anything into the throttle body) and got in my car and left the house. I made about 45 minute road trip and both the VSA System light and VSA Activation light stayed solid for the entire trip. When I got to my friends house, I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 20 minutes. Connected battery cable and VSA lights still remained solid.

Any ideas? Did I mess up a VSA sensor?

Thanks

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

I'm assuming it's a Type-S.

On the Type-S, there are two throttle bodies. The first is controlled by the VSA computer to cut power, and the second one (closer to the intake manifold) is the actual throttle body controlled by the gas pedal. The rubber piece you mentioned is the mounting hose that goes between these two throttle bodies.

For the VSA light to come on, I'm guessing you left something unhooked on that first throttle body. Did you make sure that everything was properly hooked back up? The second throttle body is not overseen by the VSA unit, so I doubt there is any problems there related to the VSA light coming on.

The electrical piece on the first metal piece you mention... That's the harness to the servo that controls the throttle body plate inside the housing. My best guess is that it is not properly plugged in. That would be the first place I would look.

Good luck.

tpeek

Thanks

I went back and saw that I had not attached the VSA electrical unit correctly back to the first throttle body. You have to rotate it a little to get it to fit in, then slightly turn to match up the screw holes. I is now attached correctly.

But when I turned the car back on the VSA lights remained solid. I had the negative battery cable unplugged while attaching the VSA unit back up. Thought it would reset the computer. Unplugged for at least 20 minutes.

I would appreciate any additional advice.

Thanks

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Is it just the "VSA" light? No check engine light? How about "!"? Or is it all 3 lights?

I would suggest unplugging the battery completely overnight (or a couple of hours) and see if that will do the trick. If not, head over to the nearest AutoZone and get the code(s) scanned.

I can't remember for 100% sure, but if it's just the "VSA" then it needs to be manually reset, like the "SRS" light. SRS doesn't go away by unplugging the battery, unless manually reset.

tpeek

2 lights. VSA System Indicator Light and the "!" light ( I thought was the VSA Activation Indicator).

The Check Engine light did not stay on.

I will try what you suggested.

Thanks

tpeek

One more thing I forgot to mention:

I had gone back and sprayed some throttle/carb cleaner into the throttle bodies.

When I am coming to a stop, the RMP drop really low to almost quitting, then come back immediately to idling RPM of about 750. It does that one more time while sitting at the light, then remains constant of 750 RPM.

Anyone have some idea?

Thanks

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Okay, you might have to get that reset manually if it doesn't go away on its own by disconnecting the battery for a long time.

As for the drop in idle, did you go through the idle learn process? If you didn't, you will have to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes or so, then when you reconnect it and the first time you start the car, do not touch anything and just leave it idling for about 10-15 minutes. That should do the trick, unless the problem is from a mechanical source. If the idle learn process doesn't fix the problem, then let us know. But it sounds like it will take care of it.

Good luck.

tpeek

OK, thanks

Just a heads up. I took the car by Autozone a little while ago. They hooked the diagnostic device and it passed.

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem with the VSA and the "!" but this time i have the ABS on but i started to mess around with my car because i saw a site that told me to remove the ECU and the ABS and VSA fuses, remove the battery, and plug everything in and it should work. Thats what i did and the only that didnt pop up again was the ABS but now how do i reset the VSA and the "!". ALso the VSA turns on after my car has been running for 3-5 mins and stays on until i restart my car. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP

P.S. I have a 2002 TL-S

fsttyms1

Did you do something to cause this or did it just appear? If it just appeard id bring it in to have the code read to find out whats wrong

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

when i got the car it was already on. I bought it from my uncle. He got it from a salvage yard and fixed it for me. It didnt show up until i started driving it for about 1 week, then everything started to go wrong with it.

wilsel

Any luck? I have the same 3 lights on my 05 TL. All fuses are fine, I even pulled the VSA fuses. Battery cable is unplugged now.

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

No luck yet. A technician told me the VSA has to do with either the Steering wheel, or the seat harness. If you had just swapped your seats or had your airbags redone or replaced it can be that. I havent tried the dealer yet still trying to save myself some money. If someone can help me that would be great.

P.S. I was just messing around with my car one day. Remove all the harness that was visible from the top of the engine and all the assessories there and disconnected the ground or negative line. Left it for a few mins and the ABS had reseted.

Thanks Victor

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah also now the VSA Turns on after the car had been running for a few mins. I dont know why the VSA button on my dash doesnt work. Usually you could manually turn it off. I thought it was the VSA button but it wasnt. The button is fine.

fsttyms1

Well if you bring it somewhere to get teh codes read, you may be able to figure out whats wrong. If not id bring it to the dealer