Temperature gauge fluctuating
Hi everyone. Thought I'd ask for your insight on a problem I have with my car. It's a 2003 Acura TL-P. a lot of times when I am driving the temperature gauge goes down to the lowest point and the tcs light will turn on. I also feel it starts running about 200 rpm higher than it should. After a minute or so it will go back to the regular temperature. Also if I restart the car it will normally go back to the normal temperature. I was thinking I may need to replace the thermostat. Please let ,e know what you think.
Thanks
Thanks
you know it should stay just below half at all times
Is the rad full? the cap to res bottle has a hose inside that must be attached to its nipple--likes to fall off
does driver side rad fan run at long stoplights. it should
does ac make pass side fan come on?
Is the rad full? the cap to res bottle has a hose inside that must be attached to its nipple--likes to fall off
does driver side rad fan run at long stoplights. it should
does ac make pass side fan come on?
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 17, 2013 at 01:44 PM.
temp fluctuating......
Yeah, ask the shop who did the T-belt to pressure check the cooling system. Make sure that the rad's coolant level is up. May have a faulty T-stat ??? Maybe air trapped within the system, a leak, bad cap, etc. Make sure that the fans activate as 01tl4tl previously mentioned.
Buy the "OEM" Honda 2-stage T-stat and go from there !
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How did you bleed the air out???
grab a copy of the service manual, the procedure is in there.
long story short; the cooling system is sealed, the only way you are going to get air out is by opening the cap, the only way you can open the cap is when the car starts off cold.
take the cap off, start the car turn the heater control to the hottest setting (leave the AC button off so that fans not blowing everything around when you are working in the front of the car) and allow the car to circulate the coolant through the system (which is heater core, engine cooling passages, ATF warmer and radiator). there are a lot of passages AND some of them won't open up (like the lower radiator where the thermostat is) until the car is properly warmed up; so you will have to be patient while this takes place.
They do make a bleeding funnel that connects nicely to the radiator filler that keeps stuff from bubbling over in the engine area as the air bubbles make their way out; I'd probably buy one now since amazon makes getting those type of things convenient and affordable.
long story short; the cooling system is sealed, the only way you are going to get air out is by opening the cap, the only way you can open the cap is when the car starts off cold.
take the cap off, start the car turn the heater control to the hottest setting (leave the AC button off so that fans not blowing everything around when you are working in the front of the car) and allow the car to circulate the coolant through the system (which is heater core, engine cooling passages, ATF warmer and radiator). there are a lot of passages AND some of them won't open up (like the lower radiator where the thermostat is) until the car is properly warmed up; so you will have to be patient while this takes place.
They do make a bleeding funnel that connects nicely to the radiator filler that keeps stuff from bubbling over in the engine area as the air bubbles make their way out; I'd probably buy one now since amazon makes getting those type of things convenient and affordable.
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