TCS & VSA Lights
#1
TCS & VSA Lights
So both my TCS and VSA lights are on. They came on when I was doing some work on my car, and I had to replace one of the wheel speed sensors. I had my mechanic check the codes, and there is nothing there.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what it might be, or how to get these lights to shut off? Also does the VSA light just push in, or does it have a click to it when pushed? I can't recall, and want to make sure my switch isn't broken.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what it might be, or how to get these lights to shut off? Also does the VSA light just push in, or does it have a click to it when pushed? I can't recall, and want to make sure my switch isn't broken.
#2
Senior Moderator
disconnect the battery for a few min and see if the lights come back on.
#4
Well I tried the battery pull after the issue was first discovered, and no luck. Maybe I didn't disconnect it long enough.
And I've put more than 100 miles on my car since it occured. Maybe I'll disconnect it for a bit today, then hope putting miles on this weekend will help.
I find it odd that the codes don't come up on the scanner.
And I've put more than 100 miles on my car since it occured. Maybe I'll disconnect it for a bit today, then hope putting miles on this weekend will help.
I find it odd that the codes don't come up on the scanner.
#5
Senior Moderator
Im not sure those codes will. I think the SRS and TCS codes all use a different scan tool and cant be scanned over the OBD connector.
If its still on after that long you may need to recheck your work. How do you know you had to replace a wheel speed sensor?
If its still on after that long you may need to recheck your work. How do you know you had to replace a wheel speed sensor?
#6
I knew it was the wheel speed sensor because we had trouble getting it off when we did the ball joints. Then we put everything back together, and the scanner said the right front wheel speed sensor was kicking a code. Replaced that, and some of my lights went out but not the VSA and TCS lights.
#7
its time for a real `specialized brake shop` with the special ABS system code reader
All they do is brake jobs!
Will cost less than dealer for diagnosis by an expert
look in the phone book for a shop in your town, make some calls
what exactly were you doing on the car at the time?- that may point us to the real prob
1 bad speed sensor may be 2~
All they do is brake jobs!
Will cost less than dealer for diagnosis by an expert
look in the phone book for a shop in your town, make some calls
what exactly were you doing on the car at the time?- that may point us to the real prob
1 bad speed sensor may be 2~
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#8
BuddyC, I did my ball joints recently as well and after I was finished, my ABS & TCS indicators were illuminated (non-Type-S so no VSA). I had only done the passenger side so I knew it was the passenger side wheel speed sensor that was throwing the code.
Turns out that I hadn't installed the sensor all the way in (since it is a tight fit & people always say be gentle with them). Clearance between sensor & ABS ring was supposed to be like 1-3mm. Tapped the sensor in as hard as I could with a rubber mallet. The next time I turned the car on, ABS & TCS had gone off automatically (didn't have to drive any distance).
So first thing I'd do is make sure the sensor is all the way in. The sensor is really just a magnet with wires wound around it; no moving parts. What you have to be careful with is pulling/twisting the wires as under the insulation, the wires are pretty thin. Hopefully it's something that simple; I was almost about to replace that $50 sensor. There's a way to clear TCS & ABS codes without any special tools. I'll have to look it up in the manual how to do so.
Turns out that I hadn't installed the sensor all the way in (since it is a tight fit & people always say be gentle with them). Clearance between sensor & ABS ring was supposed to be like 1-3mm. Tapped the sensor in as hard as I could with a rubber mallet. The next time I turned the car on, ABS & TCS had gone off automatically (didn't have to drive any distance).
So first thing I'd do is make sure the sensor is all the way in. The sensor is really just a magnet with wires wound around it; no moving parts. What you have to be careful with is pulling/twisting the wires as under the insulation, the wires are pretty thin. Hopefully it's something that simple; I was almost about to replace that $50 sensor. There's a way to clear TCS & ABS codes without any special tools. I'll have to look it up in the manual how to do so.
#9
I'm going to try a few things this weekend. I'll try the battery pull and do it a little longer this time. I'll also take a look at the speed sensor and make sure its in all the way.
If those don't work, I'll try a specialized brake shop, and see what they say.
If those don't work, I'll try a specialized brake shop, and see what they say.
#10
definetly recheck the last work done- cant tell you how often thats the problem
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