SRS light reset
SRS light reset
does anyone know how to reset it?
i've heard that it's like resetting the main't req light, just different button combination. don't know if that is true.
I just don't have time to get my car to the dealer or else i would get it done. I have an 01 TL with navi and its under warranty.
any suggestions?
i've heard that it's like resetting the main't req light, just different button combination. don't know if that is true.
I just don't have time to get my car to the dealer or else i would get it done. I have an 01 TL with navi and its under warranty.
any suggestions?
You can't reset the SRS memory by using the trip mileage buttons. You need to remove the wire connector under the dash and jumper it and turn the ignition on/off. The procedure is listed in the helm manual. Easy to do, no need to go to the dealer.
Do you know why the SRS light came on before you reset it? If you insist on it you must use a service connector part number 07PAZ-0010100. It is a 2 pin harness with a jumper wire connecting the 2 pins. I will post the proceedure tonight cause Im late for work. Remember that it is always a good idea to know why the light came on before you reset it.
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The tool you need is a 4 dollar part mentioned in my post above
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
Honda and Acura use teh same part. You can get it from a dealer close to you/ I got it online but unless you order more stuff the shipping costs more than the part lol. See if Tim can get it.
Originally posted by NighthawkBlack
The tool you need is a 4 dollar part mentioned in my post above
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
The tool you need is a 4 dollar part mentioned in my post above
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
My RED SRS light is alway on. I want to reset it myself.
Can you more be more specific where is the 2-pin wire I need to remove and put a jumper? Thank!
srs light
i also want to know which wire your talking about. i have two blocks of three wires. one block is for the ignition and when disconnected will not allow the engine to turn over. the other block with three wires (blue, orange, and white) is at the upper left side of the driver's side fuse box. my srs light came on because i removed all the wire blocks from the fuse box looking for a specific wire so i could add a mod. so i dont have a true srs issue. warranty or not, i will get charged for turning it off since i caused the problem. both acura and honda want over 30 bucks to turn it off. the damn mod only cost 50 bucks. not going to kick in another 32.50
just need someone to be more specific on which block of wires to jump.
instruction are great except for that item.
just need someone to be more specific on which block of wires to jump.
instruction are great except for that item.
Originally posted by SwampGas
Does it really matter if you reset the SRS memory and there is a problem?
I'm assuming that if the system has an error, it'll turn back on anyway after the reset
Does it really matter if you reset the SRS memory and there is a problem?
I'm assuming that if the system has an error, it'll turn back on anyway after the reset
actually no if the light is on DOES NOT mean there is a problem. if you actually do no why your light is on, and dont want to pay because the dealer also knows why its on because you asked the dealer how to turn it off. now the dealer will charge you. the light comes on for no reason and you didnt just mess with the wire blocks on the driver side or grab the wrong fuse in the driver's side fuse box and got the #2 fuse which is the srs then you have a problem and need to take it too the dealer. if you unplugged the #2 fuse or unplugged the wire blocks and it happen to be the block that has the wire for the srs, then the light comes on and you know why and its not because you have a problem. i personally removed the wire blocks looking for the hot wire to the tail lights so i could hook up my street glow mod pedal pads. i obviously dont have a valid srs issue and dont want to pay 32.50 to have the stupid light turned off. had i know that the srs light would be such a butthole, i would have found the wire a different way. so now if any one knows which wire block and which color wires are to be jumpered with or without the tool (just need to know which wires) then please post for good of all humans that live.
man i cant believe it. i plead for all of humanity to please give the location of the two wire block, but no i had to find it by myself.
ok boys and girls, nighthawkblack gave a great instructions of the method. however the wire block is not actually in the driver's side fuse box. it is barely under the dash by the drivers left knee as he/she drives. the two wire block has two green wires in a yellow block. now in that area there are two of these but one is a spring loaded connector and is bigger than the correct block which is about an inch of above the wrong one.
got you confused? hehe
1. two wires green in a yellow block (small)
2. under dash left of steering wheel as the driver sits.
3. smaller yellow block is the right one and is located one inch above another bigger yellow wire block which has a spring loaded connector.
i used a paper clip and not the tool mentioned previously. the wires have very little manuvering room so turn ingition on while on your knees looking up at the srs light. (this part is easier is your a woman). make sure the paper clip is evenly messured out to fit the block as the time frame to connect and disconnect is short.
last thing, dont get upset it does not work the first time. you have to be in the time frame as per instruction, you have to get the paper clip in the right position, and it will work. it took me four tries. i think you can do it in two tries with these hints. the instructions are perfect the srs light will blink twice when it resets.
if you did nothing resently like fuses, wires, neon lights, or something we all know made the srs light come on, then try this. if you did nothing then take that baby to the dealer, please. as this srs light has to do with multiple sensors in your airbag system and you dont want to die or kill family/friends.
now thats long winded, nate.
ok boys and girls, nighthawkblack gave a great instructions of the method. however the wire block is not actually in the driver's side fuse box. it is barely under the dash by the drivers left knee as he/she drives. the two wire block has two green wires in a yellow block. now in that area there are two of these but one is a spring loaded connector and is bigger than the correct block which is about an inch of above the wrong one.
got you confused? hehe
1. two wires green in a yellow block (small)
2. under dash left of steering wheel as the driver sits.
3. smaller yellow block is the right one and is located one inch above another bigger yellow wire block which has a spring loaded connector.
i used a paper clip and not the tool mentioned previously. the wires have very little manuvering room so turn ingition on while on your knees looking up at the srs light. (this part is easier is your a woman). make sure the paper clip is evenly messured out to fit the block as the time frame to connect and disconnect is short.
last thing, dont get upset it does not work the first time. you have to be in the time frame as per instruction, you have to get the paper clip in the right position, and it will work. it took me four tries. i think you can do it in two tries with these hints. the instructions are perfect the srs light will blink twice when it resets.
if you did nothing resently like fuses, wires, neon lights, or something we all know made the srs light come on, then try this. if you did nothing then take that baby to the dealer, please. as this srs light has to do with multiple sensors in your airbag system and you dont want to die or kill family/friends.
now thats long winded, nate.
OMG!! I love u guys....The dealer wanna charge me $87 for reset the SRS light because I accidently remove the passenger seat and turn on the ignition at the same time. Anywayz...I follow the instructions and it works !! don't have to go to the rip off dealer anymore...just wanna say thanx and I really appreciate the instructions!! Take care
my SRS light is still on,
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
Originally posted by rizwan789
my SRS light is still on,
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
my SRS light is still on,
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
I don't believe it's like the check engine light that even if the problem does not reoccur, the light will stay on for something like fifty starts, or until it's reset.
Originally posted by rizwan789
my SRS light is still on,
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
my SRS light is still on,
can anyone located in the central jersey area help me reset my light?
it would be greatly appreciated. I am not that technically advanced. i don't want F it up trying to do it myself.
you can email me rizwan779@aol.com
thanks
i know why it came on, i pulled a fuse while my friend was hookin up my neons
and i dont want to take the car to the dealer, they might charge me
so if anyone can help, please let me know
and i dont want to take the car to the dealer, they might charge me
so if anyone can help, please let me know
Originally posted by rizwan789
i know why it came on, i pulled a fuse while my friend was hookin up my neons
and i dont want to take the car to the dealer, they might charge me
so if anyone can help, please let me know
i know why it came on, i pulled a fuse while my friend was hookin up my neons
and i dont want to take the car to the dealer, they might charge me
so if anyone can help, please let me know
just a suggerstion
i had that srs light on for like a 2 month or so
i took it to the dealer, park ave. they checked it no charge
there's a sensor in the seat belt buckle that went bad.
and most likely you probaly have the same problem (unless you were involved in an accident which could be a whole list of other things)
now they are going to replace for free under warranty soon as the part comes in...
so you can go through all that trouble resetting it but
to songoku, and goaub they have a point.
i had that srs light on for like a 2 month or so
i took it to the dealer, park ave. they checked it no charge
there's a sensor in the seat belt buckle that went bad.
and most likely you probaly have the same problem (unless you were involved in an accident which could be a whole list of other things)
now they are going to replace for free under warranty soon as the part comes in...
so you can go through all that trouble resetting it but
to songoku, and goaub they have a point.
Originally posted by NighthawkBlack
The tool you need is a 4 dollar part mentioned in my post above
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
The tool you need is a 4 dollar part mentioned in my post above
Here is the proceedure
1. Turn off ignition
2. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2pin wire you take out of the drivers fuse box and is now hanging from a thicker harness.
3. Turn on ignition
4. SRS light comes on for 6 sec and then goes off. Before it has been off 4 sec, Remove the SCS connector.
5.SRS light turns on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector withen 4 sec of light coming on
6. Light goes off, remove connector witeh 4 sec after light went off.
7. SRS light blibks 2 times telling you the memory is erased.
8. Turn ignition off.
hchhon..
Jump it with the paper clip, turn the car on, wait for the SRS light to go off, yank the paperclip out. It'll light up again, shove the paperclip back in...then it'll turn off. Yank it out. It'll then blink twice to tell you it's reset.
Don't worry about the timings...just do it as soon as you see the light change (and do it quick).
I cut a thin paperclip to about 2cm long, then bent it with needle nosed pliars so it looked like a staple. Then I just used the needle nosed pliars to push it in and out of the plug. Just be careful to shove it into the right side of the plug...the one side of the hole doesn't contact the metal.
Worked on the first try...
Jump it with the paper clip, turn the car on, wait for the SRS light to go off, yank the paperclip out. It'll light up again, shove the paperclip back in...then it'll turn off. Yank it out. It'll then blink twice to tell you it's reset.
Don't worry about the timings...just do it as soon as you see the light change (and do it quick).
I cut a thin paperclip to about 2cm long, then bent it with needle nosed pliars so it looked like a staple. Then I just used the needle nosed pliars to push it in and out of the plug. Just be careful to shove it into the right side of the plug...the one side of the hole doesn't contact the metal.
Worked on the first try...
Originally posted by SwampGas
hchhon..
Jump it with the paper clip, turn the car on, wait for the SRS light to go off, yank the paperclip out. It'll light up again, shove the paperclip back in...then it'll turn off. Yank it out. It'll then blink twice to tell you it's reset.
Don't worry about the timings...just do it as soon as you see the light change (and do it quick).
I cut a thin paperclip to about 2cm long, then bent it with needle nosed pliars so it looked like a staple. Then I just used the needle nosed pliars to push it in and out of the plug. Just be careful to shove it into the right side of the plug...the one side of the hole doesn't contact the metal.
Worked on the first try...
hchhon..
Jump it with the paper clip, turn the car on, wait for the SRS light to go off, yank the paperclip out. It'll light up again, shove the paperclip back in...then it'll turn off. Yank it out. It'll then blink twice to tell you it's reset.
Don't worry about the timings...just do it as soon as you see the light change (and do it quick).
I cut a thin paperclip to about 2cm long, then bent it with needle nosed pliars so it looked like a staple. Then I just used the needle nosed pliars to push it in and out of the plug. Just be careful to shove it into the right side of the plug...the one side of the hole doesn't contact the metal.
Worked on the first try...
if any of you are that clueless about doing the procedure. and especially if its under warranty still, take it to your local dealership. first and most importantly your going to screw something up because you have no idea of what your doing. if you start jumping any connector you will do some damage to other things. you dont want to screw up the multiplex's. and why is the light on?? just erasing the code and light doesnt solve the problem. there is a reason why the light comes on. the tl's had a problem with the seat belt buckles.
Originally posted by prlcivic
if any of you are that clueless about doing the procedure. and especially if its under warranty still, take it to your local dealership. first and most importantly your going to screw something up because you have no idea of what your doing. if you start jumping any connector you will do some damage to other things. you dont want to screw up the multiplex's. and why is the light on?? just erasing the code and light doesnt solve the problem. there is a reason why the light comes on. the tl's had a problem with the seat belt buckles.
if any of you are that clueless about doing the procedure. and especially if its under warranty still, take it to your local dealership. first and most importantly your going to screw something up because you have no idea of what your doing. if you start jumping any connector you will do some damage to other things. you dont want to screw up the multiplex's. and why is the light on?? just erasing the code and light doesnt solve the problem. there is a reason why the light comes on. the tl's had a problem with the seat belt buckles.
Those of us who have done the procedure and are explaining the process have stressed, time and time again, that unless you are 100% certain that YOU caused a false code, take it to get serviced.
I was 100% positive it was a false code because it happened after I played around in the fuse box and turned the car on....that was a listed method of triggering it. If there was a REAL problem and I was mistaken, it would have come back on by now.
I was 100% positive it was a false code because it happened after I played around in the fuse box and turned the car on....that was a listed method of triggering it. If there was a REAL problem and I was mistaken, it would have come back on by now.
Originally posted by stinkboy
ok boys and girls, nighthawkblack gave a great instructions of the method. however the wire block is not actually in the driver's side fuse box. it is barely under the dash by the drivers left knee as he/she drives. the two wire block has two green wires in a yellow block. now in that area there are two of these but one is a spring loaded connector and is bigger than the correct block which is about an inch of above the wrong one.
got you confused? hehe
1. two wires green in a yellow block (small)
2. under dash left of steering wheel as the driver sits.
3. smaller yellow block is the right one and is located one inch above another bigger yellow wire block which has a spring loaded connector.
ok boys and girls, nighthawkblack gave a great instructions of the method. however the wire block is not actually in the driver's side fuse box. it is barely under the dash by the drivers left knee as he/she drives. the two wire block has two green wires in a yellow block. now in that area there are two of these but one is a spring loaded connector and is bigger than the correct block which is about an inch of above the wrong one.
got you confused? hehe
1. two wires green in a yellow block (small)
2. under dash left of steering wheel as the driver sits.
3. smaller yellow block is the right one and is located one inch above another bigger yellow wire block which has a spring loaded connector.
The question I have is concerning the yellow blocks. I see both of them. The larger/lower one is spring loaded and has two green wires going into it.
The smaller one does NOT have two green wires going into it. It has a green wire with black stripe and a black wire going into it.
Also interesting is that the larger spring loaded block that does have the two green wires going into it also has the yellow tape around the wire loom, as did the wiring loom my seat connector did. Kind of the universal signal for airbag wiring.
I'd rather not take this to the dealer for a simple reset, but I don't want to screw something else up.
I've attached a pic from my 2003 TLS. You should be able to see what I'm talking about. The small connector does NOT have two green wires and simply goes up into a normal wire loom. The large spring loaded connector DOES have two green wires going into it as well as the universal yellow tape indicating, to me, that this should be the correct one to jumper.
Can any of you who have done this help me out here?
It looks to me like the large connector is the airbag one, not the smaller one. Plus, the smaller one doesn't have two green wires going into it.
Check out my pic and let me know something.
Originally posted by bozzchem
My SRS light is on because I turned on the ignition while the passenger seat was out of the car.
The question I have is concerning the yellow blocks. I see both of them. The larger/lower one is spring loaded and has two green wires going into it.
The smaller one does NOT have two green wires going into it. It has a green wire with black stripe and a black wire going into it.
Also interesting is that the larger spring loaded block that does have the two green wires going into it also has the yellow tape around the wire loom, as did the wiring loom my seat connector did. Kind of the universal signal for airbag wiring.
I'd rather not take this to the dealer for a simple reset, but I don't want to screw something else up.
I've attached a pic from my 2003 TLS. You should be able to see what I'm talking about. The small connector does NOT have two green wires and simply goes up into a normal wire loom. The large spring loaded connector DOES have two green wires going into it as well as the universal yellow tape indicating, to me, that this should be the correct one to jumper.
Can any of you who have done this help me out here?
It looks to me like the large connector is the airbag one, not the smaller one. Plus, the smaller one doesn't have two green wires going into it.
Check out my pic and let me know something.
My SRS light is on because I turned on the ignition while the passenger seat was out of the car.
The question I have is concerning the yellow blocks. I see both of them. The larger/lower one is spring loaded and has two green wires going into it.
The smaller one does NOT have two green wires going into it. It has a green wire with black stripe and a black wire going into it.
Also interesting is that the larger spring loaded block that does have the two green wires going into it also has the yellow tape around the wire loom, as did the wiring loom my seat connector did. Kind of the universal signal for airbag wiring.
I'd rather not take this to the dealer for a simple reset, but I don't want to screw something else up.
I've attached a pic from my 2003 TLS. You should be able to see what I'm talking about. The small connector does NOT have two green wires and simply goes up into a normal wire loom. The large spring loaded connector DOES have two green wires going into it as well as the universal yellow tape indicating, to me, that this should be the correct one to jumper.
Can any of you who have done this help me out here?
It looks to me like the large connector is the airbag one, not the smaller one. Plus, the smaller one doesn't have two green wires going into it.
Check out my pic and let me know something.
well that wire piece looks like a paperclip to me. i know its not but i infact did use a paperclip and ran the procedure as it directed.
your choice. dealer, money maybe maybe not, waste of time, gas, and time at the dealership.
your choice. dealer, money maybe maybe not, waste of time, gas, and time at the dealership.


