Hows it goin. for the people here who installed their own spoilers (either stock or aftermarket stock lookalikes)- when you drilled your 4 holes in the trunk, did you use the/a "template" or did you just drill upwards from the 4 raised dots UNDER the trunk (when you open it)......my question is why do you need a template when the 4 drilling holes are already marked by raised metal dots. take a look, i'd appreciate it. -shawn

btw, if anyone's interested in a spoiler group buy lemme know or post in the thread. thanks.

 

I used a template to do mine. It was pretty close to the four hole marks, but not quite. Mine used a system with a plastic strip with two nubs that fit into the spoiler holes. I propped up my trunk a bit to keep the spoiler from sliding off. Then I measured and re-measured and re-measured. Then you tape the plastic strips to your trunk and drill through the holes. It came out perfect. I probably could have drilled thru the factory marks, but I wasn't sure if spoiler makers used different patterns. It was easy, just take your time. Once you drill, that's it. The look is worth it. Goodluck with your group buy and installations! :gheywave:

 

hey man- thanks for your help....would you know if ALL spoilers come with templates, or if not where i can get them?....and btw, so far, no one's been interested for the group buy for the spoilers. thanks. -shawn

 

I installed an aftermarket spoiler which is basically identical to the factory spoiler. Bought it from "Trimking1" on Ebay. Awesome spoiler...it was $170 paint-matched.

I asked them first and they said that it will line up with the factory dimple marks. So just ask the person you end up buying it from.

Some more generic stuff incase you don't have much experience drilling metal: Definitely use a center punch so the bit doesn't slip. Use a very sharp bit - the Dewalt Pilot-Point bits are great IMO. Don't push much on the drill...let the bit do the work. Pushing hard will leave an ugly exit hole on the other side of the sheet metal (as well as possibly bending it). I would suggest buying a step-bit / unibit to help finish the hole after drilling it out to the right size.

 

thanks for your help though unfourtunately, i need a generic-er answer....first of all i have no idea what a center punch is (from wording at least)......and a step-bit/unibit.....what's that?...i appreciate the help. -shawn

 

Unibit / Step-bit:



Its a drill bit that can drill multiple sizes. They are awesome to use because the bit automatically finishes the hole. Say you are drilling a 3/16" hole. The shoulder of the next larger size (1/4") will slightly bevel / round the edge of the metal. Makes a clean hole with no burrs. You have to be careful not to push it thru to the next size. Just light pressure to clean up the top of the drilled hole.

A center punch is just a metal punch with a sharp tip. You place the tip in the area you want the center hole to be and then hit other the end with a hammer. It makes a little divot that will help keep your drill bit from sliding around (it WILL most likely slide around if you don't do this).

Based on your Q's I would be a bit cautious doing it yourself. Its not a hard thing to install, but knowing tools and stuff is important. I'm not knocking you - you gotta start somewhere. I'd suggest trying in some scrap sheet metal to get an idea of how to drill metal and how you can damage it accidently (i.e. too much center punch -> bend the metal). It would ruin your day if you made a little screw-up. Its just metal though and it can always be fixed. Good luck!

 

mine, and others i have seen are where the dimples are on the lid. the safest way is eithr get a center punch or a nail and hit it with a hammer (on the center of the dimple) then use a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole then move up to the correct size drill bit . a unibit if you can get one or want to get one is a GREAT tool to have. you can find them in most hardware stores, even sears carries them

 

(just realized we're talkin on two threads but..) thanks. I'm not an expert but i just built a deck at home, and i'm planning on installing the spoiler with my dad because he knows more believe it or not....(he owns an auto body shop). i'll keep those tools you said in mind. BTW....what kind of LED are you feeling more....RED or CLEAR.....i'm leaning towards red (silver 03 type s nav)....any opinions?

 

Clear LED. Definitely.

 

i got my spoiler from ron, with his all you do is tap the 4 metal markers that are on the lid and drill a 3rd hole to run the wires and your set, this should take u 20 minutes max of actual work

 

wait...you mean a 5th hole.....or you mean a 3rd on each side which means 6 holes....

BTW, i'm also very paranoid about my trunk rusting out over time....what's the best and safest way to seal the holes. thanks. -shawn

 

He meant a 3rd hole on one side. There are 5 holes total. Drill 4 mounting holes where the factory dimples are and then a 5th hole for the wire on the drivers side. The spoiler comes w/ a template that will show you where the 5th hole should be.

Use a brushable primer - dries quick. I'd hit it at least a couple times. I very very carefully sanded about 1/4" around the hole first to prevent chipping (to make a smoother transition to the bare metal b4 primering the area). Cover up the area around the holes to prevent drips on the paint. If you're very anal, you can get a color-matching bottle of touch-up from the dealer or Napa/Autozone

Might want to use a touch of antiseize on the bolts (Napa/Autozone). This is used to help prevent rust which can seize the bolt (prevent it from being removed). Probably not very important for the spoiler...the bolts are stainless btw. But it wouldn't hurt. Its good stuff to have especially when bolting stuff under the car.

 

wait.....what?...why should i use primer?....i'm talking about like a silicone substance around/in the holes to keep from water getting into the paint and rusting.

 

Drilling will leave exposed metal. This will rust pretty quickly if not primered. You should primer any exposed metal (which will be the inside edge of the hole).

Look at where the 4 dimples are…notice that once they are drilled out, they would only leak water into the rain "gutter" around the trunk (ie. water would not get into the trunk). The only hole that will lead to inside the trunk is the one for the LED wires. The spoiler comes with a foam gasket that will prevent an leaks.

At this point, how about you just drive up here to MA and I'll install it for ya?

 

thanks for your help keeena. after primering is it necessary to put silicone in the hole when i'm putting the screws in?

how would brushable primer come?

sorry for all the questions i just didn't know all the precautions for rust....thanks again. -shawn

 

i would not recomend just using primer (unless its an epoxy primer). primer DOES NOT keep out water. you are better off getting your self a bottle of touch up paint and using that because that will seal off the metal better than just primer. if you are completly anal you can go to any auto glass store and ask for some buytle and squish that in the holes after you paint and install the wing to really seal out water

 

what forms does epoxy primer come in? how about silicone? thanks.

where would i find touch up paint?

 

hey guys, i reviving this thread- i got my spoiler and i'm debating whether i should install it myself, or take it to the shop. A couple of you guys said to drill from the bottom on the factory dimple marks. however, when i measured the centers of the dimple marks, it's 3 inches (i think), and the holes on the spoiler itself were 3 1/4 in. so i'm not going to end up drilling the center of the dimples.

one more thing, should drill from the bottom up or use the plastic things and tape it to the car and drill through there?

i feel kinda stupid sayin this but i happen to own a body shop and could have them do it, but i feel like a retard not installing a spoiler.....then again.....*stares at his car starry eyed*...dunno if i could push through her like that......with a drill. thanks. -shawn

 

I drilled mine thru the plastic thing from the top. Mine were close to the bumps on the bottom too, but not quite. Fix the holes after you drill so you don't get rust. It's a snap. Go for it!