Hey guys, This may have already been answered but I had no luck finding it. My TLS has 76k miles. i bought it with 57 about 6-7 months ago. I would like to get the tune up done (spark plugs pcv valve) those type of things. I know acura says do it at 100k miles but im under the impression that is only for people who dont drive hard. there is nothign that can happen if i change them early right? it would just create a smoother ride overall? Let me know what you guys think, or what you have done up to now.

 

read thread seafoamed the ol TL and buy 3 cans at 6 bucks each and use
Buy 6 NGK Iridium spark plugs at just under 7 each and install
change air filter
change cabin pollen dust filter behind glovebox
you have just done the tune-up

 

So thats it? there are no wires or coil packs? i dont know much about cars. but thats really all i need to do?

 

If you are changing plugs yourself the front 3 are easy but the back 3 look to be dificult. I just changed the front 3 but did not attempt the back ones yet. My spark plug socket kept getting stuck after tightening the new plug and I had to fish it out each time. I can't imagine that happening in the rear with such poor access. If anyone has any tips would be happy to see them.

 

Use a real spark plug socket with a magnet inside or a rubber insert- a litle dielectric grease on the rubber boot will keep them from sticking to it

for the rears combine a 3 and 6 inch extension or use a 9 inch if you have a real set of tools!
Then its easy

The coil packs get removed to get to the plugs, unless one craps out on you- which will show itself with terrible running, just remove 2 bolts- pull pack- remove plug- install new plug- replace pack

Easiest tune up ever

 

good tip 01tl..

 

it cant hurt the car, but your losing money when you parts are working just fine. you should just clean them ie seafoam ect. u can change it but this might help

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/looking-egyptian-maus-162146/

 

Speaking of which, i need to change mine.

 

geez kris are you driving that much again? get the irids this time!
and its kris who had the idea to use the special grease to aid in non stick of insert

BOOP- the OE plugs start to lose power after about 50k miles- so anyone with over 60 is going to feel improved power and gas mileage

With gas a 3.25 and sure to go to 5 at some point- every little bit you spend on the car does pay you back
Just like proper inflation on the tires helps too, and a fresh cabin filter allows lower fan speed to push air and less draw on electrics = better mileage, and a full AC system is working less and the ......

 

Tool Tip
Look at the inside of the socket- there is a round dimple inside the connector end, and on the ratchet or extension bar is a little ball- fit those two together and they stay together!

 

yea i know, when i did the swap i was in a hurry and the only thing available was the densos. Im starting to notice a slight rough idle now at near 40k on them.

 

Right on schedule- i heard the denso only good for 30k and I dont feel like leaning over the engine again!

 

ive gotten about 40 or so out of the 2 other pair i ran. (mostly hwy)

 

yes yes we all are aware of your championship in parts life trophy for the last 3 years running
15k oil changes, 150k shocks, 200k water pump- or did you replace that in a fit of boredom one day too!!

Max performance and still ok are very different things in my mind- with the gas prices in the thinking

 

Still running door to door with my buddies 13.9 1/4 SC maxima and getting 30-32MPG on hwy seem fine to me. Just a rough idle and im noticing the slightly longer start up time and not as responsive to normal inputs.












Oh and i was never that bored

 

Its best to go with oem spark plugs right? dont upgrade just stick with what comes normally? also, I have a comptech icebox that will be going in probably next week. I dont like the foam filter thats in there so I am thinking about putting a K&N. Ive heard bad things about K&N Oil Based Filters screwing up MAF's, however, i dont see that apexi makes a dry filter in the size needed for the intake. Does anyone know if either apexi makes one or if someone else makes a dry filter? In terms of the spark plugs im not sure im going to do it on my own. I use to do it on my galant but im a little hesitant on this.

 

Stick with the stock plugs. K&Ns arent bad. The oil could do bad things to maf sensors if you over oil them. But you dont need to worry about that, the TL doesnt have a maf sensor. Ive been using a K&N for over 240k now 0 issues

 

Stock plugs meaning NGK use the Iridium or Platinum- but NGK is what to ask for
about 6 bucks each and worth it

This is a simple job to do- if you ever did plugs before you can do these

K&N filters= right on!

 

My 03 TL just hit 60k, and rather than spent the $500 Acura charges to do the service, I put in an AEM V2, NGK Iridium IX plugs. Thanks for the info on the pollen dust filter.

 

'03TLS: Does anything ie other parts have to be removed to get at the back 3 plugs? Any brackets etc. Just looks very difficult to get at. Dielectric grease on the foam insert of the socket so it won't adhere to the plug after tightening the new one in place?

 

Dont know about foam inserts but the special grease will keep them from getting stuck in the rubber inserts most plug sockets have, and will not interfere with electricity.
Its spark plug boot grease, if you look for the little $1 pack on parts store counter

The rears are easier if you lean/lay across the fender/engine from the side
No extras to remove- more things on front with those covers!

The 9 inch extension - there is a bump in the firewall- your hand and ratchet fit right in there !! Its amazing~

 

I suggest do 1 in front to feel how tight everything is supposed to be and see how it all fits together- then do the rears because more time and anguish are involved

then the simple fronts to finish the job on a happy note!

 

side note to airforce and all:

That $18 pollen dust filter behind the glovebox should be replaced every year or more if you have really bad construction and pollen in your area

You will be shocked at the color of the old one! I was breathing thru that ?!?!?!??

end of threadjack:

 

Thanks for the 411 01tl4tl. I'm in a high dust/pollen area. I just changed my plugs about an hour ago. The back 3 looked difficult, but were actually very easy to get to. She runs much smoother with the NGK Iridium IX plugs.

 

the rears on the type-s are easiest to get to if you remove teh 2 bolts that hold the 2nd stage actuator motor in place and swing it out of the way

 

NGK has 2 types of Iridium plugs on their site. One is $12 and just says 'Iridium plug' the other is $7 and says Iridium IX. I know everyone suggests the Iridium IX, just curious what the difference is, their site doesn't seem to expand on the difference. I called the dealer and they wanted $26 a piece!!

 

And, yes, I searched like hell. I found many people that asked the same question, but never got a direct answer. I know people use the Iridium IX, I want to know the difference between these. Is there anything worth getting the extra ones?

 

iridium ix

 

NGK Iridium IX
7 bucks each at most major parts stores

 

The iridiums come with a washer around them that looks different from the stock plugs. Do I use it, or the original?

Here is a pic of the difference.

 

Yes use the new ones on the new plugs-
its called a crush washer because- well- you see what happens!
Never re-use spark plug washers-
13-15 foot pounds of torque
Have fun~

 

I see, thank you, I haven't changed spark plugs since I was 16 on my old Nissan truck.

 

No prob-
always make sure the old plug brought its washer out of the hole with it
Sometimes they try to stick in there and a double washer will not seal at all !

 

I put everything back together and now I have a CEL. What's up with that?

 

Did you double check that every thing is connected? or that you didn't damage something

 

All the coil packs are plugged back in as well as the 2nd actuator. I dropped one of the coil packs(the hardest one to get to) into the engine bay. Would that have damaged it? It didn't fall far or hit the ground. I may have grabbed the actuator by the cable once or twice while pushing it out of the way but that shouldn't have harmed anything.

 

I checked the old plugs and all of the still have their washers so there's not an extra one in with the new ones. I went for a drive and it rides fairly smooth, but it sounds like it's sputtering a little when I leave it idling. Even if one is misfiring it still rides better than when I had six crappy, gunked up ones all firing. Removing the resonator wouldn't cause a CEL would it?

While I was driving around, if I got above 60 or 6k RPMs, the CEL would flash for a bit and then remain lit. Any ideas on that?

 

go to a parts store like kragen or autozone and ask them to check for any codes then report back here

the use the code scanner for free!

 

That's what I was planning on doing. I'm afraid that something happened to the coil pack on the back, passenger side. I really don't want to have to get to that thing again, I may go crazy, well crazier anyway. I used a torque wrench to 13 ft/lbs and tightened until it clicked, so I'm sure they're all tightened properly, and I made sure not to get any anti-seize on the contacts. One of the plugs fell out of the socket onto the floor but it looked ok.

 

OK, so I went to Autozone and had them pull the codes. They pulled a P0304, P0305, P0306; misfire of cylinders 4,5,6. Plus a P0399 or something like that for multiple misfires. My VSA light is now on as well, no codes showed up for that, it's off when I start the car but after I drive for about 1/4 mile the VSA light comes on. I replaced the vacuum line just for the hell of it while I was there.

Any ideas? Could I really have 3 bad plugs or coil packs? I called the dealer and they acted like I was out of my mind for using Iridium plugs, and were of course no help. I asked about the coil packs, saying I had been careful with them and they said "They are like light bulbs, they will just go out, doesn't have to be a reason," does that sound right?

My car feels like it's going to die when idling but seems to drive ok.