Sound system question

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Old 07-27-2007 | 12:28 PM
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Sound system question

Well, I have a 12inch MTX sub laying around that I might wanna slap on my car. My question is, when I get an amp, is it hard to hook up the wires to the stock stereo system? Thanks.
Old 07-27-2007 | 12:56 PM
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No, Theres no messing around with the stock system, Just get a very high quality L.O.C from best buy I think the brand is called "peripheral", and plug it into the stock sub. The other end is RCA's which plug into the amp, and thats all there is to it.
Old 07-27-2007 | 01:29 PM
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i got my line out converter from walmart 12 bucks and its great! SCOSCHE BABY! lmfao jk
Old 07-27-2007 | 01:44 PM
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The Scosche LOC that Wal-Mart carries is not bad. They work pretty well actually. I have one in my wife's car, and it works great.
Old 07-27-2007 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonlikewhoa
The Scosche LOC that Wal-Mart carries is not bad. They work pretty well actually. I have one in my wife's car, and it works great.
Problem is tapping the back side of the stock sub amp is more power than most are designed for and they burn up fairly quick. Thats why you want a good quality unit
Old 07-27-2007 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MOBB
No, Theres no messing around with the stock system, Just get a very high quality L.O.C from best buy I think the brand is called "peripheral", and plug it into the stock sub. The other end is RCA's which plug into the amp, and thats all there is to it.
so i can't use the stock head unit if I wanted to add an additional sub? What is the LOC? Why would I want to plug it into the stock sub for? I'm just a little lost. Thanks.
Old 07-27-2007 | 02:53 PM
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LOC = Line Output Converter. What it does is, for consumers who want to keep their factory system but add additional subwoofer, this is where it comes to play. A LOC gets tapped or ( three way spliced ) into the subwoofer and then connected to the amp. What it does is, make a bridge for the subwoofer to get power so it can hit at the same time the other speakers are hitting, understand? A LOC has two sides, one side for a speaker connection ( in this case the factory bose sub ) and at the other end a RCA jack which gets connected to your amp. Hope it helps! You need this to run your MTX,
Old 07-27-2007 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by FL3.2TL
LOC = Line Output Converter. What it does is, for consumers who want to keep their factory system but add additional subwoofer, this is where it comes to play. A LOC gets tapped or ( three way spliced ) into the subwoofer and then connected to the amp. What it does is, make a bridge for the subwoofer to get power so it can hit at the same time the other speakers are hitting, understand? A LOC has two sides, one side for a speaker connection ( in this case the factory bose sub ) and at the other end a RCA jack which gets connected to your amp. Hope it helps! You need this to run your MTX,
ahh yes. you are the man. well explained. Anyways, using the LOC, would it mess anything up like stock amp at all?

So with the LOC, I wouldn't even have to take out my stock stereo to access any wires or anything right? Cuz I really dont want to open it up if I dont have to. So all the work I need to do is to connect the MTX to the amp, and amp connected to the stock sub by way of the LOC? Correct me if I'm wrong. thanks
Old 07-27-2007 | 03:03 PM
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Np, this is what you do.. The LOC, its going to come with wires preattached to it, you splice two wires I believe ( one positive and one negative of the same color ) into the sub. There is s plug which is connected to the sub, make sure you plug it back in. Now the sub wires are pretty short, either A. You can extend them or B. mount the LOC on top with it. Afterwards, when you do that, connect the RCA cables from the LOC to the AMP, and you have a running sub, which of course you run the ground and power wires for the amp. It's really not hard, and directions should come with it for a better idea. You dont have to pull nothing out, no speakers or headunit, just splice the subwoofer wires.
Old 07-27-2007 | 03:06 PM
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nice! thanks. i'll be doing that when I get my amp.
Old 07-27-2007 | 04:05 PM
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hey, i was looking in the trunk earlier, and I couldn't tell which is the amp. I see a small box to the right side. Is that the one?
Old 07-27-2007 | 05:22 PM
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No, the amp is behind the seat, however you dont need to worry about the amp. Just the subwoofer wires..
Old 07-27-2007 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FL3.2TL
Np, this is what you do.. The LOC, its going to come with wires preattached to it, you splice two wires I believe ( one positive and one negative of the same color ) into the sub. There is s plug which is connected to the sub, make sure you plug it back in. Now the sub wires are pretty short, either A. You can extend them or B. mount the LOC on top with it. Afterwards, when you do that, connect the RCA cables from the LOC to the AMP, and you have a running sub, which of course you run the ground and power wires for the amp. It's really not hard, and directions should come with it for a better idea. You dont have to pull nothing out, no speakers or headunit, just splice the subwoofer wires.

how come i don't have to worry about the amp? I thought you said i had to connect the RCA cables from the LOC to the AMP?
Old 07-27-2007 | 06:34 PM
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yes to your new amp for the subwoofer you are installing, not the stock one.
Old 07-27-2007 | 06:39 PM
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well duh, haha, how else will the sub work? hahah. excuse my stupidity. thanks
Old 07-27-2007 | 11:45 PM
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Old 07-28-2007 | 11:56 PM
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Question: has anyone tried replacing the Bose subwoofer driver only with an aftermarket sub, but still used the stock Bose sub amp?

In other words, just removed the wires from the speaker terminals of the Bose driver and either connected a sub driver in the same location as the Bose driver (of course, you'd have to remove the Bose driver to mount the new sub), or run those wires to a sub inside an enclosure in the trunk?

I believe that the stock sub amp is 100 watts, which should work fine with a lot of sub drivers out there.

For whatever reason, the stock Bose sub does not go down low and doesn't play especially loud. It doesn't sound like a sub at all, and doesn't even reproduce low frequencies that well.

I am pretty unimpressed with the stock speakers, although the head unit is pretty cool. My plan is to remove or bypass the Bose sub and use the stock amp to drive something from Kicker, MTX, Alpine, Infinity, Focal, MB Quart, Diamond Audio, JL Audio, etc. Then, I plan to keep all the stock door speakers, but to mount some tweeters to either the black plastic behind the side mirrors, or mount them inside the upper corner of the doors or dashboard. I'll just wire the tweeters inline with the door speakers (the tweeters have a crossover), no extra amp. It'll take some cutting and drilling, but I am up for the job.
Old 07-29-2007 | 12:39 AM
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Well this has been discussed many times but here are your options with the BOSE subwoofer.

A) Keep the Bose factory sub and add a LOC with a new amp/sub
B) Replace the factory Bose sub with a 8" Free Air Sub ( Kicker makes one ), and you can't use the factory amp
C) Remove the factory for more of a "free flowing air' from trunk to inside the car with aftermarket subs.
D) Run the factory BOSE sub to a aftermarket headunit.
Old 07-29-2007 | 01:14 AM
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Natch, I did a search but could not find my exact question answered. SO there is no way to use the factory amp with a non-Bose sub driver? Why not?
Old 07-29-2007 | 01:36 AM
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I just did a search and read that the Bose amp does not have enough power for a non-Bose Free Air sub driver. I guess that the 100 watts figure is some "creative accounting" on Acura or Bose's part!
Old 07-29-2007 | 05:02 PM
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hey, so i got about 100 bucks for an amp, what's a good amp for that price? if not, something around that price. Ohh yeah, it's a 12 inch MTX Thunder sub
Old 07-29-2007 | 05:26 PM
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FL3.2, this is what I found when i typed in LOC...

Old 07-31-2007 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by myTaLizaS3.2
FL3.2, this is what I found when i typed in LOC...

thats exactly what u need
Old 07-31-2007 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MOBB
thats exactly what u need
could you show me which end of the connections go where? thanks
Old 07-31-2007 | 04:53 PM
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I sent you a PM..
Old 07-31-2007 | 05:04 PM
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got it thanks. good info
Old 08-02-2007 | 11:19 AM
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$100 for an amp? You better try Ebay. You won't find a quality amp in stores for $100.
Old 08-02-2007 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AirForceAC
$100 for an amp? You better try Ebay. You won't find a quality amp in stores for $100.

Old 08-04-2007 | 08:28 PM
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ok... i am prolly the most inexperienced sound person in here and do not know much about it... now lattely ive beenn wanting to add some more bass into my car since the bose sub wasnt doin it. sooooo i know youll know youlls stuff so if u could just like give me a list of things to buy for 1 sub to put in the back that would be great... ooo and i need it to be kinda on the cheap side lol... teens dont make to much money these days.. thanx!!
Old 08-04-2007 | 08:46 PM
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Honestly I would just suck it up and save money and one time put in a killa system, but that's up to you. What you do need though is the following: 1 subwoofer, 1 amplifier, 1 LOC ( Line Output Converter ), 1 power wire, 1 ground wire, 1 enclosure, a roll of speaker wire, and a friend or two for better assitance. Now if you want to know how to install it, then you need to read and search upon, it has been discussed in detail. Good luck!
Old 08-04-2007 | 11:27 PM
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ok... well wat is a rounded estimate for that killa system with labor... just enough to give it good bass highs and lows
Old 08-05-2007 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FL3.2TL
Honestly I would just suck it up and save money and one time put in a killa system, but that's up to you. What you do need though is the following: 1 subwoofer, 1 amplifier, 1 LOC ( Line Output Converter ), 1 power wire, 1 ground wire, 1 enclosure, a roll of speaker wire, and a friend or two for better assitance. Now if you want to know how to install it, then you need to read and search upon, it has been discussed in detail. Good luck!
OR, you could really simplify things and buy a powered subwoofer, such as an Infinity Basslink or something similar. If you do that (expect to spend $299-$399), you'll get the driver already mounted in an enclosure and already connected to an internal amp. It simplifies things immensely for a newbie. Of course, you won't get the same kind of bass extension as if you mounted a 15" sub in a huge box, but we're not ricers here, are we?
Old 08-05-2007 | 11:01 AM
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Also, if you get an Infinity Basslink II through Crutchfield, they are throwing in an extra 4 channel amp module, which plugs into the Basslink and gives amplification for 4 more speakers.

For those who are interested:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-LVcOMop...k&i=700BASS4CH
Old 08-05-2007 | 12:09 PM
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sooo.. wat.. if i just got one of the infinity basslink II speakers thats all i would need just to get some more bass???
Old 08-05-2007 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Soccer_playa1579
sooo.. wat.. if i just got one of the infinity basslink II speakers thats all i would need just to get some more bass???
If you just wanted to add a powered sub like an Infinity basslink, or something similar and probably cheaper from MTX or Bazooka (you can get a Bazooka powered sub for $199 or less), you would need a $30.00 LOC to bridge the signal from the stock Bose subwoofer, and you would also need to run power and ground from the battery and the common ground to the sub, and install a sub level control in the dashboard if you want to. Actually, with some of the powered subs, you don't even need a LOC because they have speaker-level inputs. So, you could just run speaker wire from the stock Bose subwoofer in series to the sub (Bazooka, for example, has speaker-level inputs). There is already an unused grommet in the firewall, above the brake and accelerator pedals, so you could run the power and ground cables through that into the engine compartment.

This Bazooka sub appears to have everything you need for $169.99 (except for a longer wire harness--see note). Crutchfield will also send you detailed installation instrux. Again, you won't get the ultimate in bass extension, especially with a 6" (!) woofer, but it should at least be an upgrade over the standard Bose subwoofer. The reviews suggest that it sounds pretty good, regardless of the 6" driver.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rWehTR1...0&I=204BTA6100
Old 08-05-2007 | 01:14 PM
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hey guys I got a question. I just got a JL 250/1 amp and a JL 10w3v3 and wondering if theres a easier way of installing it. I went to many different shop for a quote and all are over $150 including High Low Converter and the wires. Is there a DIY to install a sub and a amp on a stock deck? What kind of Highlow converter is good?
Old 08-05-2007 | 01:55 PM
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Yea you might want to save up to buy a decent system... I just got my jl w6 installed and now I cant hear a dam thing just bass...I guess I have to save up and get some good 6x9 to be bale to hear anything again with the sub...anyone else have that problem when just adding a sub?????
Old 11-04-2007 | 05:45 PM
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I have a question about ths too, and I didn't think it was important enough to start a new thread. Im planning on getting a Basslink or Bazooka (powered sub with the speaker-level inputs), but I keep hearing things about me having to remove the rear seats/headunit to access the wires to splice into the new sub. Do you just cut the wires from the Bose sub, add wire, and connect it directly to the sub? And what do you do about the turn-on lead, is that the additional wire that is running to the stock sub?
Old 04-11-2008 | 08:25 PM
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im trying to fine someplace to install my ground wire. its gunna be running like 800 watts. i can't find a bolt in my trunk that is attached to the chassis or any bolt thats near the chassis. in fact i didn't see any bolts in my trunk at all! soo wut do i do?
Old 04-11-2008 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveS221
im trying to fine someplace to install my ground wire. its gunna be running like 800 watts. i can't find a bolt in my trunk that is attached to the chassis or any bolt thats near the chassis. in fact i didn't see any bolts in my trunk at all! soo wut do i do?
All I did for my ground was attach it to the bolt for the spare tire. Works great.



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