I have 2 amps in my trunk...One is powering 2 12" xplods and the other is powering my speakers...I'm installing a capacitor tomorrow, but I've been looking into getting a 130 amp alternator, or a second battery to assist...The lights dim a little bit when the bass hits, but the big issue for me is the first and second notes bump hard and then after that its no where near as loud...

I have a nearly new yellow top under the hood, which helped a lot from my previous battery...

I guess my question to you guys is which would be more beneficial to keep my system hitting hard and not fading out...And if its a second battery would a regular battery suffice, or would it have to be another yellow top, or something along the lines?

 

a 2nd battery becomes addtional `juice` storage area for when the electrical draws a big load fast--the bass notes,,, then alternator refills the battery
At idle it will always be a problem- not enough rpm to make decent output from alt,,needs 1500 rpm to cover all the cars needs, plus your extra demands

any decent batt will work

 

Just do the Big3... No need for a second battery or HO alternator if your running lower than 1000RMS....
Ive got all the Stuff on my Sign and the Stock Alternator do just fine....

A capacitor will just put another load on your Alternator, If your AMPs dont draw a decent amount of Amps when in Use there´s no Need for a Capacitor! Spend the Money on the BIG3 INSTEAD!!!

 

What he said ^^^ and go 2nd battery if needed. But the Big Three is the biggest help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc

 

Just dont skimp out on Cables those in the Video look like CHEAP-O-EBAYERs that have more jacket than Aluminium cuz they arent OFC either or True AWG...

IMO I would use anything from a GOOD BRAND! Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Stinger, JL Audio and More uses TRUE AWG Rating and OFC Copper for their Cables! Tough they are a little more expensive they are worth it!...

For my Setup I used:

Stinger XPRT Series 1/0 OVAL (Now Discontinued for the Normal One). And 2 AWG for the Grounds.

For the Fuse Holder Use only "ANL" Fuse Holders cuz the Normal ones will Break from Heat! I used the old Kicker ANL Fuse Holder Design:


If you want a cleaner look you could use the StreetWires Holder its a Tube Design:


Hope that Helps!

These are the Pics of my Big3 Setup (Very Old Pics lol):

 

The system is about 1300 RMS...And I am going to do BIG 3 and Capacitor tomorrow...And then go from there.

Thanks for the input fellas!

I can get a used battery from work, not even a year old for $35, so If need be I will put that under the hood and move my Optima to the trunk. I will keep you guys posted.

 

Installed the cap today and it made a huge improvement...Im going to do the BIG 3 sometime this coming week and go from there on getting a second battery.
But what a difference the cap makes, the system is much louder and hits harder.

 

Glad that the cap worked!

But I kinda think with 1.3K+ RMS you should swap/rewound the OEM Alternator for a HO one, A second battery + Cap is ALOT of stress on the OEM Alternator not to mention 1300RMS worth of Amps..

So if your running on a TL-P thats the OEM 110A < Totally Underpowered (Idle) with 1300RMS...
Type-S have the 120A < Tops 1KRMS, So Underpowered (Idle) for you.

Perhaps the 130 Odyssey Alternator could work, But I would play safe and go with A H.O. 180A Alternator. It would be just in the sweet spot for your needs and Future upgrades.

 

I agree - that 2nd battery is going to put WAY more stress on the alternator than your system ever would. I have the stock alternator with my system below - a bit over 1100 watts and have 0 issues.
checking the voltage readout on the cap confirms everything is good to go even with the AC blasting and lights on - it stays above 13 even with the system hitting hard and gets right back to 14.4 when the bass slows down

 

I agree with skirmich. Youre putting alot of work on your stock alternator as now youll have to charge two batteries and run the car electronics.

Stock TL-P alt is 105 amps. An alternator from a j35a5 is 130. They are found in your odysssey,mdx,honda pilot. I picked one up from a junkyard(2000 odyssey) for 41 dollars. Thats the biggest you can go besides sending yours to ohio generators and having it rewound and it bolts right up.

I had the same problem as you until I did the big 3, added the alternator and a yellow top.

Everyone thinks caps solve problems but it like putting a bandaid on a broken leg.

 

Thanks guys, I am planning to do the Big 3 this coming weekend. Working for Advance, I was looking at the oddy alternators for about 160, and thats for reman, not a new unit...
I never thought of hitting a junkyard for one, thanks for that idea.

Does the oddy alternator bolt right up and use the same belt?
Skirmich- I thought the stock alt was 105 amps for type s?


I have the cap mounted so I can see the screen in the pass through, and voltage is pretty good there...Since last night I have driven 4 times and have yet to see it below 14.1V.

 

so what is the problem? your lights will not dim if the voltage stays that high if they do then you have another issue. what does it read when you really have the music up loud and lights on?

 

Lights still dim a tad, and after a very heavy bump the next is slightly low..Dont get me wrong, the capacitor has made a huge diff, but I think I am going to get the odyssey alt anyways...A local junkyard has one for 45 dollars.

As far as the voltage reading goes, I havent had a chance to just sit and watch it, only glancing at it in the mirror while driving. I might watch it tonight if I get the chance to.

 

post an update after you put in the new alternator. that is a great upgrade for $45
basically gives you another 300 watts to play with so that should really help out.

 

Stock TL-P altetnator 105 amps
Stock TL-S alternator 120 amps
J35A5(3.5 liter)alternator - 130 amps

Yes that alt. bolts right up. Slightly larger case but the mounting holes and pulley match.

 

Thanks again to all of you guys for your input, I appreciate it.

I am going to try to make my way down to the junkyard after class on Friday, its my only day off. If not, it will not be until next week, but I will keep you guys posted for sure.

 

Well you may seen Voltage reading but what are we talking about is Amperes totally different, You see your Alternator is peharps doing 14v but the Actual Amperes may be not enough to power all Cars toys.

And your actual Voltage read is Lower than mine...

Im running 875W RMS and Still having steady (14.4v @ the Amps) with all 6 Lights On (HIDs) and Bass Pumping, It lowers to 14.3-2 if I use A/C. Are you sure your using the right AWG Wire?

Read your Actual in car Use (Ex. A/C, Lights, Etc.) as Reference if your only running your Audio Setup is not enough...

 

VOLTS x AMPS = watts
so the stock 105 amp alternator at max 14.4(ish) volt output = 1512 watts. obviously the engine and car uses quite a bit of power on its own and if your engine is not reved high enough and spinning the alternator so it can output the full 105 amps that is when you see the voltage drop with the music loud. like when you are sitting at idle. The audio amplifiers try to pull too much power (amps) from the electrical system causing a lag.

therefore getting a more powerfull alternator with more AMP output is needed (bigger powerplant). Also adding a capacitor very close to your amps and making sure you have big enough power wire 4guage at least will help reduce the resistance. Adding another battery only bridges the gap of the system pulling too much power than the alternator can supply or it allows you to listen w/ the engine off for longer.

 

I hate to come off like an ass but what brand amps are you running? I'm questioning if your amps are putting out a rated 1300 watts RMS because there is little chance those xplodes are taken 1000-1300 watts. I could be wrong. also what size and brand power wire are you using? Anyways before buying another alternator do the big 3 in 0 gauge OFC wire and see where that gets you.
I'm running a AP15001D and a Infinity 475a on a stock CLP alternator with the big 3 done in 0 gauge and the power wire from the battery up front to the amp in the back is only 4 gauge and I have no dimming at all.