notbrant

iTrader: (2)

I was planning on seafoaming my car today, but I will be at work longer than expected and wont be able to change my oil tonight, then I have to wake up early and go to school, So i would have to drive about 50 miles after seafoaming.


I was wondering if I could do the gas and vacuum line seafoam tonight, run it until it doesn't smoke, then let the car sit overnight and then proceed to do the seafoam in the oil tomorrow, then get an oil change?

Anachostic

That sounds fine. There's no requirement to do all three parts in one session.

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

yup

fsttyms1

Thats fine.

jdjohn84

You could do it all tonight, drive around tonight and tomorrow, then get the oil changed. You can drive up to 100 miles or so with it in the crankcase. Just make sure the engine is good and warm right before the oil change - reliquify the gunk so it will flow out.

JDTL-S2002

what vacuum line do you sea foam on 2002 TL-S? where is it located?

jdjohn84

Do a search and you could probably find a pic.

JDTL-S2002

ive tried searching. either they're in the 3.0 motors or the pics cant be seen anymore

notbrant

iTrader: (2)

Just got done doing the vaccum line, used PCV Valve, worked like a charm. I am going to do crankcase and gas tomorrow.

jdjohn84

You will have to remove the engine cover first. Then, it's the red circled hose. Pinch and slide the clamp back, then pull the hose off and twist out of the way.



Pour the Sea Foam into a glass or safe plastic (not styrofoam) cup, then use about a 3' length of 1/4" inner diameter (ID) clear vinyl tube to suck it up. Home Depot sells the tubing for like $3-4 for several feet. You can control the process better in a cup, and the clear tube lets you see it getting sucked up. Don't dunk the tube in the Sea Foam; you will find out that the suction is pretty strong, so just hover the tube above the Sea Foam and it will easily suck it up. It's easiest to have an assistant in the car to keep the throttle going at about 2,000RPM. Enjoy!

01tl4tl

for vac port at TB
the important part is start with warm engine- heat is seafoams friend.
then the afterdrive with full blowout rpm 4000 rpm and some 5000 rpm blast once it stops smoking
5-15 minutes of aggressive spirited throttle will do

oil: it can be used safely up to 1 month with monitoring of dipstick for sludge
If doing that, you may want a new oil filter to catch all the stuff that will get loosened.
100-150 miles is really good for it actually on old 6000-7000 mile filter seems to be fine.. as long as your not already at sludge on the stick~

seafoam says minimum 30 minutes driving for heat and time to liquify the crud,
and if you dont change at end of that drive- 15 minutes min freeway drive to fully warm and liquify the crud when you are ready
Indicated temp and full engine running temp are 15 minutes apart!

Its very interesting to install a new filter then cut it open when done with a few hundred mile on foam-
stuff I never thought was in my well maintained engine !!!!

01tl4tl

you dont have to use 2000 rpm all the time, use sip sip stabilize to get the action started- then some 2000 then back to idle or just above
Use Deep Creep- seafoam aerosol or make your own from spray bottle
Use to clean TB air plate, lube throttle return springs (really helps)
and DC spray can allows 1 hand for throttle mechanism and other for spray can action
Easier than helper who doesnt know when you need a bit of throttle to keep it running

Note- when radiator fan comes on you can back away for a minute- thats realllly hot air coming at you and no reason to stand there

01tl4tl

note- location of vac NIPPLE- a metal tube extending from the TB- exact location will move with your year, may be on top or pointed forward or backwards but its the only hose with the squeeze clamp on it like those
and only hose there-
when you remove and start engine, 20+ inches of vac should suck your finger on tight
If engine stumbles bad during foam- put finger over vac nipple and instant smooth

cant imagine how anyone used pcv port and got real vac there
Brake booster is ok but much harder to reach
This is pop the 4 bolts or whatever off the plastic cover and you are there

01tl4tl

gas method is 2 oz per gallon fuel or 1/2 tank to 1 can

jdjohn84

20lbs?

01tl4tl

suction/vac is measured in inches normally- as far as I remember- but the brain is full and old stuff is leaking out
isnt it negative pressure is inches and positive force applied is pounds?

whatever....the correct vac port with nipple with have some major suction compared to a smaller vac line running a selenoid for example

jdjohn84

Heck if I know, thus the (?). Let's just say inch/lbs (kinda of like ft/lbs) and be done with it.

LThouse

iTrader: (1)

I am doing this today. One question though. Once I put a full can in half a tank of gas, do I run on that gas till its gone? At what point should I get more fuel?

jdjohn84

Don't dilute with more gas, that would defeat the purpose. Run it all out before re-filling.

LThouse

iTrader: (1)

Okay, one more thing. After I did the seafoam and turned my car on, the check engine light came on. Is that normal? If so how do I reset it?

Thanks

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Drive it. If stays on after 50 miles, not normal; might be time for a new O2 sensor.

But if you wanna force-reset it, pull fuse 13 from the passenger-side fuse box for a couple minutes. Doesn't guarantee that it'll stay off though.

JDTL-S2002

sea foamed through the TB vacuum line. good burn. drove on the interstate today a lot more responsive. jumped from 65 to 105 in just a 3rd gear pull to 6.3k rpm's.

jdjohn84

If you don't know the age of your spark plugs, now is a good time to change those, too. I got the NGK Iridium IX's and installed them last weekend after doing Sea Foam the weekend before. Nice response from the new plugs even though my old plugs looked just fine. There are DIY's for this, but be warned that the back passenger side plug is a biatch.

notbrant

iTrader: (2)

I have new plugs also and noticed the response

01tl4tl

usually a CEL is from not doing the afterdrive well enough~

10 minutes of 4000 rpm with some 5000 rpm blast will get the crud out-- and not get stuck to the O2 sensor as it has now-

dont sweat it- just drive a few days and the heat will clean off the crud ...self clears the CEL

run the dosed gas as far past E as you know is safe, (20-30 miles past low fuel light)
as soon as you add gas is not at the cleaning strength anymore

01tl4tl

the ngk's always look great at 60-70 and the car runs better with new ones~~

jdjohn84

The NGK Iridium IX's are on sale right now at Advance Auto Parts for $5.99/ea. - that's a $1 off their normal price...while supplies last.

01tl4tl

good find J- thats a score~

anyone with more than 60kmiles or so on a gen2 is ready for seafoam AND new spark plugs

I know they will `last till the 105`, but why wait when new plugs will make the car run like new?

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Generally, one buys two bottles of Seafoam, 1/2 each into the vac and oil, the other to the gas tank?

And my new NGK plugs will be fine after this procedure? Just perhaps not shiny new?

01tl4tl

vac port at TB: 1/2 up to 3/4 can...wherever the engine is really working to keep running- then let it stall or shut off with key, wait 10 minutes and restart- let stabilze-see rest of my blow out drive directions in earlier post in diy thread

gas tank: 1 can to just under 1/2 tank= 2 oz per gal fuel, cleaning dose

I use 1/2 tank instead of 1/4 tank, because you will refill too soon after treatment, not getting full run of treated fuel- as low light comes on a 3 gal remaining
a little more product and gas works better--time and heat are your friends on this

oil is optional AT oil change time, not way before unless on specific program of a few hundred miles then change
Normal use: just under half can 6 oz= 1.5 oz per qt oil
drive 30 minutes solid- that gives it the heat and time to really deglaze and remove crud- let it go to the oil filter
then change while its warm--so crud stays liquified
If you must wait a day or so after drive, do a 15 minute freeway warmup to `reliquify` the stuff... or it will just sit on the bottem of oil pan and not drain out

I noticed the deep creep can is down to 12 oz capacity, and seafoam site shows new can design thats 14,,better ck the liquid seafoam cans - are they shorting us there too? used to be 16 in each

WILL NOT HURT your new plugs- do the blowout drive and all will be well
If you manage to get a CEL- it wasnt a good enough drive~ will clear the prob and light itself with drive