comet24

So I've read this is a somewhat common problem with these cars.

What rotors have people used that don't warp or are least likely to warp. Big plus if they don't break the bank also.

How big of a difference do the 2-pot calibers have in preventing warped rotors.

I want to fix this problem, get better stopping power and feel at the same time.

Current plan is 2-pot calibers, Hawk HPS pads and new rotors. I'm just stuck on which rotors. On other cars I've gotten away with picking up any old rotor at the local auto parts store and using HPS pads.

Don't know what's on the car now as it's got what it came with when I bought it two years ago. This is a 2001 TL.

Dabu

Check out Adams Rotors? They post on here often.

Skirmich

The rotors I used that didn't warp even while being completely toasted in my touge adventures are: EBC 3GD (155 per Rotor) and my Current DBA 4000XS (145 per Rotor) all cheap Rotors have warped on me, some faster than the others.. Some even in the same week, The best cheapo rotor I've used are the StopTechs but they did warp on me eventually. EBCs I ran them down to minimum wear and they didn't warp in all their useful life.


Yes the 2 Pot Caliper does makes a difference in Warping Rotors, If you use cheapo rotors they don't warp them as fast as the 1 pot caliper. They will still warp cheap rotors though.

comet24

Any experience with the EBC USR Slotted Rotors?

ECRD

Do you brake that hard on the street that your warping the rotors?

Rotors warp due to excessive heat so maybe you need to upgrade your brake pads to suit your driving style?

01tl4tl

I have used several makers pads on my RacingBrake 1 piece slotted rotors, use the brakes as a licensed race driver is prone to, and never had any issue with warping!!
Been on the car about 6 years now!
running RacingBrake ET500 pads for superior stopping in all conditions and pad temps

also have SS brake lines and the Legend 2pot calipers with DOT4 fluid

You may have the OE rotors= which warp at the slightest temp issue or improper torque applied to lug nuts

See our sponsor MrHeelToe for the deal on RB parts, ck their website (racingbrake.com)as to why their rotor design and manufacture are far superior to most others

01tl4tl

there are parts in the system than can imitate rotor warping-
ck the slider pins for the calipers, and correct torque on everything
most calipers and brackets are installed WAY TOO TIGHT!!
then the caliper cant move freely to create the braking action

also suspension and steering parts like tie rod ends and control arm bushing will cause shake

Skirmich

EBC says they are the same as the 3GD just not Gold Zinc or have the same Dimple pattern. Should work fine.

comet24

When I got the car the front drivers side caliper was sticking. After pulling everything off it was the slider pins. Replaced them as there were pitted and one of the rubber boots was torn.

I don't think it's that or suspension issues but I will check it all when I get a chance soon. Weather here on the east coast hasn't been too nice without a garage to look at things.

01tl4tl

torn boot on caliper piston + corroded slider pins
I would suspect the piston itself has suffered too, easy to pop the caliper apart and ck it out
rebuild kits with new piston seal and boots are about 10 bucks

if caliper is badly corroded, this is the time for the 1995 Legend LS-C caliper upgrade- they often cost LESS than TL calipers!
and the parts place is happy to get TL calipers in the exchange- a much larger market exist for those calipers than some old 95 legend!

note: I am specific on the year/model legend as there are numerous caliper options for the legend- this one has pistons closest in size to each other- what we want for our use

adamsrotors

thanks for the recommendation...

---

this is always a sensitive subject with customers when it happenn, but warping is not a factory defect, rather driver caused.
no rotor is warp-proof or guaranteed against it, that's impossible.
...our rotors don't crack.

hot/tracked 1-piece rotors are bound to warp at the slightest of slow speed/stop brake taps without true coast cooling…not stand still.
and that's not to say only track driving causes this. even spirited drives, lead brake-foots, quick on and off highway ramps, buzzing around town, stop & go, etc.

also, pads are a HUGE factor…as is proper bedding.
pad deposits, glazing, cheap pad compound, unset caliper pistons, poor bedding/prep procedures, etc.
there are also non-brake related things that cause the same symptoms like unbalanced wheels/tires and tired control arm bushings.

and changing the caliper's won't do anything...you need to keep your rotors cooler.

our exclusive double slotting and over-slotting have shown GREAT results in heat dissipation, and they also add bite & glad avoidance.
this and much more can be found on our info/FAQ page, which we urge you to have a look at: what AR is all about/FAQ's

comet24

Calibers themselves were ok last time I had the front wheels off although that's been a year ago or so. Did have to rebuild one of the back ones last year.

Current plan is to replace the calipers with Legend Calibers (Raybestos FRC10628 and the corresponding on for the other side). EBC Sport Slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads.

I've had good experiences with HPS pads in other cars when it comes to improved feel and fade.

A little more than I want to spend but I've wanted to improve the brakes and this will hopefully end the shaking for good.

Skirmich

Try to get the best pad that it wont fade on you when you are at traffic.. A pad that fades faster will usually warp your rotor faster.


I recommend EBC RedStuff for this reason, You wont make them fade on traffic ever.

comet24

Never run EBC pads. I've been really happy with Hawk HPS on other, although lighter, cars. No fade after multiple high-speed stops.

Ero

My dad's 02 TLS had this - I bought the 'expensive' raybestos rotors and pads, installed, warped in less than a year. Swapped them out for bosch rotors and Akebono pads; excellent combo in my opinion!

Skirmich

Raybestos is the worst crap you can ever install to a car.. Run from them like the plague.

adamsrotors

we have nice offering too: pads

ErickUa5

Torque your lug nuts to spec 80 lbf-ft.
Duralast $40 rotors here and I've abused them, 1 year no warpage yet

Skirmich

^ What's your abuse?
I literally burned a set of pads (smoking & fire) and my rotors go blazing red hot while on Touge... Granted that's not what cheap rotors are made for, but Cheap Rotors + Late Braking doesn't go hand in hand.

I also removed my brake dust covers so the rotors could cool off better.

ErickUa5

^100-0 and lots of burned pad smell also faded once, No ABS interference but TCS light did come on after I took off it then stood on.
Lately I've been just cruising since I hate the brake dive with the stock suspension (Legend calipers)

You should try an air duct, thinking of ditching the fog lights for it, still debating.

Skirmich

I did think about it but I dig my fogs too much.. Perhaps opening the little notch beneath the fog lights to install the tube? Removing the brake dust covers did help a lot.

ExcelerateRep

I definitely recommend looking into one of our Stoptech packages. We have a slotted option that will really help prevent warping and overheating. The whole package with pads and rotors for front and rear is available for $403.99. The Street Performance pads will have better performance over oem but produce less dust and noise than other aftermarket pads. The rotors also have an e-coating to protect against rust and corrosion.

Acurazine Brake Packages - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!