Rotors???

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Old 04-26-2005, 12:33 AM
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Rotors???

I am confused on this subject. I jsut got greenstuff EBC pads and need some new rotors. What is the difference between drilled/slot/ Drilled AND slot. What will make the pads last longer. i have read so many post and people say different stuff. I need to kno from people who know what they are talking about! So please if anyone that is ACKNOWLEDGEABLE about this topic PLEASE HELP!!! I am gonna try to do it this weekend. THANKS GUYS!~!! I know there is one kinda rotors that will grate up your pads pretty good. I DONT WANT THAT ONE!!!
Old 04-26-2005, 01:52 AM
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okay, imma take a shot at this one

first i'll give you pics:

Cross Drilled Rotors - (CD)


Slotted Rotors - (S)


Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors - (CDS)


okay, on to the info:

pros of all the Above vs. Blanks (Regular Rotors)

- when you brake, the pads and the rotors create a gas. w/ the CD, S, CDS rotors, they allow the gas to escape - therefore you will INCREASE stopping power (shorter stopping distance.) they also allow heat to escape. the blanks are a perfect smooth flat surface, therefore the gas cant really escape so you literally have a layer of gas inbetween the surface of the rotor & pad. so now you will a longer stopping distance.


i think thats the only pro, cause thats the main reason people get it, along w/ looks.

con:

- they eat up the pad much faster. although there are ways to slow it down. (i.e. direction of the slots).

- the rotor has a higher chance of cracking. (click the link at the bottom to see an actual pic of a cracked rotor a member has) but it also depends on the Brand. checking around the forum, it seems to be that rotora and brembo are good quality brands for rotors of all types.

- what people do sometimes is, they take a blank rotor - and then have it cross drilled and/or slotted somewhere else. crossdrilling and/or slotting the rotors produces a great amount of stress on the rotors that can make them weaker and lead to cracking. crossdrilling obviously produces more stress than slotting - this is why most people get slotted. you get the benefits of gas escape, but not that much harm done to the rotors.

note: all of the above also depends on the coating the rotors has. this is where i'm a little fuzzy on. but i've given you a link w/ more info if you feel like you are still lost.

Additional Info Here + pic of cracked rotor
Old 04-26-2005, 01:57 AM
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along w/ your question : what will make the pads last longer?

ofcourse blanks will make it last longer, but you'll have to figure in the fact that they will increase stopping distance meaning you will have to use more of it to stop.

while the CD, S, CDS rotors decrease stopping distance, they eat up the pads quicker.

but if you're comparing one vs. the other it will look like this: (from longest life to shortest life of pads)

blanks > slotted > cross drilled > Cross drilled & slotted.

some say it depends on the coating so it could also be this:

blanks > slotted = cross drilled > cross drilled & slotted.
Old 04-26-2005, 02:20 AM
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:26 AM
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::what was that:: <---- thnx for the info man....
Old 04-26-2005, 09:38 AM
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Stick with blank rotors, they're a wear item, and there's no need to waste money on CD or slotted rotors.

Slotted and drilled are based on old technology.

Brake pads no longer give off gasses when heated up to extreme tempatures, which is what the drills/slots were designed to fix. The gas buildup would need to be vented somehow, so the method of choice became holes or slots.

Now that they no longer give off gas, there is no need to have slots or drills in your rotors. Not only does it take up mass from the rotor, which can no longer hold and disperse heat, it also comparmises the strength of the rotor and can easily lead to cracking around the slots/drills.
Old 04-26-2005, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by timmy8151
Stick with blank rotors, they're a wear item, and there's no need to waste money on CD or slotted rotors.

Slotted and drilled are based on old technology.

Brake pads no longer give off gasses when heated up to extreme tempatures, which is what the drills/slots were designed to fix. The gas buildup would need to be vented somehow, so the method of choice became holes or slots.
thats not true. they still produse gas and the hotter they still produce it. while for most people it isnt a issue cause most will NEVER drive that hard where it becomes a issue, the heat and gas buildup is there. for 99% of the drivers blanks are more than adiquit. the other 1% that actually need slots or X drilled they are buying race brake systems.
for pad life question, it goes blank, drilled, slots/slot drilled. slot will actually produce more heat and pad wear. they are designed to. they actually "cut" the pad so that there isnt any glazing and allows for beter braking, while the drilled are there to degass and cool the rotor.

as for pad life i have over 55k on my slotted/drilled rotors and pads. (the pads suck, but they are still have good life left. they are the axxis. id recomend staying away from them. they dont like heat and have more dust that 30 cars combined)
Old 04-26-2005, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
thats not true. they still produse gas and the hotter they still produce it. while for most people it isnt a issue cause most will NEVER drive that hard where it becomes a issue, the heat and gas buildup is there. for 99% of the drivers blanks are more than adiquit. the other 1% that actually need slots or X drilled they are buying race brake systems.
for pad life question, it goes blank, drilled, slots/slot drilled. slot will actually produce more heat and pad wear. they are designed to. they actually "cut" the pad so that there isnt any glazing and allows for beter braking, while the drilled are there to degass and cool the rotor.

as for pad life i have over 55k on my slotted/drilled rotors and pads. (the pads suck, but they are still have good life left. they are the axxis. id recomend staying away from them. they dont like heat and have more dust that 30 cars combined)
Cross-drilled or slotted rotors do not help cool the brake pads like people think. Brakes turn the kenetic energy of a car in motion into heat through friction, that heat is stored and cooled through the rotor.

Drilling and slotting the rotor results in less mass to store heat. Our rotors are internally vented, so the holes and/or slots do not aid in the cooling process.

Not trying to get into an argument or anything, it's just I think there's a lot of hype behind CD and slotted rotors.
Old 04-26-2005, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by timmy8151
Cross-drilled or slotted rotors do not help cool the brake pads like people think. Brakes turn the kenetic energy of a car in motion into heat through friction, that heat is stored and cooled through the rotor.

Drilling and slotting the rotor results in less mass to store heat. Our rotors are internally vented, so the holes and/or slots do not aid in the cooling process.

Not trying to get into an argument or anything, it's just I think there's a lot of hype behind CD and slotted rotors.
like i stated in my post the slotted rotors will actually Produce heat. while the drilled dont actually get rid of heat, they help keep it lower by reducing the gas build up which makes it harder to brake thereby increasing rotor temp. the less gas and glazing on the pad the more efficantly the pad/rotor can do its job, there by reducing the amount of heat generated.

i here ya on not starting a argument and the hype. there is alot of missleading info out there
Old 04-26-2005, 10:55 AM
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well, I dont drive stop that hard, I race occasionally like freeway or straightaway but rarely do like turns or anything. SO should I just get brembo blanks to accomadate my EBC greens? Thank you guys for all the insightful info. I appreicate this alot. I also read somewhere that its better to resurface the rotors before putting on new pads or put new rotors in. That is correct right? well, As of right now i think I am going to stick with blanks and I tink I am gonna go with these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564
But anymore information about this will be GREAT. Once again, thanks for all the inouts so car
Old 04-26-2005, 11:05 AM
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I would only resurface the rotors if you're putting new pads on used rotors. But if you're going to get new rotors, there's no need to resurface them.

If you're getting new pads and new rotors, just make sure the bed the new pads in.

Try this link for bedding instructions: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Maintenance/brakes.htm
Old 04-26-2005, 11:12 AM
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THANKS. Yea I kno. I am jsut saying that if I want to keep the OEM rotos I should resurface them before I put ion the new pads. How about the rotors in that link above that I provided. They are brembo blanks. are tehy any food if I want to use blanks??
Old 04-26-2005, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SLAMMED_WDP_TLS
THANKS. Yea I kno. I am jsut saying that if I want to keep the OEM rotos I should resurface them before I put ion the new pads. How about the rotors in that link above that I provided. They are brembo blanks. are tehy any food if I want to use blanks??
Brembo blanks will be fine.
Old 04-27-2005, 05:07 PM
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always esurface used rotors before new pads go on. brembo blanks should be jsut fine, and before you "bed" pads in take it easy on them with 300-500 easy miles before you do any hard stopping or bedding in. they will last longer and be less prone to warpage
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