rotor and pad DIY
05-02-2006, 07:55 PM
#2
My "P" SpAnKs YouR "S"
here you go. http://home.comcast.net/~beinstein/Brake_Guide.pdf right click and save as.
05-03-2006, 07:29 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
here you go. http://home.comcast.net/~beinstein/Brake_Guide.pdf right click and save as.
Just curious, why do you not recommend drilled rotors?
05-03-2006, 09:14 AM
#5
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by bmui1561
Just curious, why do you not recommend drilled rotors?
05-25-2006, 03:14 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
because cheap ones will crack. If you get good ones they are less likely to do so. I have over 70k on mine and they arent cracked
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05-25-2006, 03:37 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by vtlec01
rotora/irotors are supposed to be the best 2 for our cars.
05-27-2006, 04:16 AM
#9
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i install rotora slotted and satisfied ceramic pads and never been happier to rid of stock crap. i also bedded the pads in after 300ish miles on the new stuff. no more warp brakes. also significantly less brake dust. no lie
05-27-2006, 04:23 AM
#10
Originally Posted by FreeIsGood
i install rotora slotted and satisfied ceramic pads and never been happier to rid of stock crap. i also bedded the pads in after 300ish miles on the new stuff. no more warp brakes. also significantly less brake dust. no lie
i dont know either...some one fill us in! please!
05-27-2006, 02:14 PM
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It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
05-27-2006, 06:42 PM
#13
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i try replacing my rotors, but i was not able to get the 2 rusted so bad screws out from the center part of the rotor....i did try WD-40....nope....now since i kinda forced so much, the screw itself is damaged which it slips once i try turning it! any recommandations on how to resolve this?
05-28-2006, 02:45 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
here's the first google search regarding bedding breaks.. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
05-28-2006, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by wmah523
i try replacing my rotors, but i was not able to get the 2 rusted so bad screws out from the center part of the rotor....i did try WD-40....nope....now since i kinda forced so much, the screw itself is damaged which it slips once i try turning it! any recommandations on how to resolve this?
try an impact wrench . be very careful of the direction the wrench is set before apply a hammer to it, else it'll cause warping.
05-28-2006, 02:52 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
maybe it's a wheel balance issue. I encountered some vibration/wooble on the highways some time after the roter/brake change and eventually had my wheels balance, then it went away. maybe two different issues. just a thought
05-28-2006, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by FreeIsGood
maybe it's a wheel balance issue. I encountered some vibration/wooble on the highways some time after the roter/brake change and eventually had my wheels balance, then it went away. maybe two different issues. just a thought
05-28-2006, 11:39 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
If it was wheel balance, wouldn't it vibrate all the time and not just under braking?
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