etxxz

With all this talk about rotors, types, shapes, colors, platings, rust prevention and eventually better performance, I propose we set all the facts in one place by not comparing (well maybe, this will eliminate lots of useless talk) but by stating the pros and cons of each.

I'll start:

Drilled vs. Slotted rotors (obtained online by pro sources)
-Slotted > drilled
-Slots help gases escape and cool the rotors without affecting the integrity of the rotor as much as drilled. ~cracking
-Drilled wont cool the rotor (idk 'bout dimpled)
MYTH: slotted devowers pads > drilled...it depends on rotor finish, slot/dril deph/whith...otherwise both are =
-Nobody in the modern world who uses iron brake rotors -F1 (before carbon), CART, IRL, NASCAR, ALMS, WRC, TransAm, Formula Atlantic, F3000- uses drilled rotors...WHY d'you think?
-Drilled looks > slotted
-Why do porshe, AMG and the Ferrary Enzo use Drilled, idk? (enzo~carbon) P911TT "casts" the holes. My dad's C32 AMG is cast drilled but brakes amazingly
http://www.supercars.net/servlets/PW...eNoM/1car3.jpg
-Sport bikes use drilled because of huge rotors/calipers so drill to reduce weigh
-Both (drilled 100x more than slotted) create stress risers that will allow cracking



i gotta leave otherwise i'd keep putting more facts on how Slotted > drilled (mechanically, 'cause drilled looks better). Now its your turn. i'd like to hear about Zinc, Cadmium and Nikel platings, combination of slotted/drilled/dimpled/*STAR* and who's the best overall, (considering same size) Normal vs Slotted vs Drilled vs Combo

dont flame drilled rotors, i wanna make this thread informative.

aaronnn

uhh cool. i like my cross-drilled/slotted rotors.. theyre holding up pretty well and giving me the stops i need compared to the stock ones. so im not complaining. ive been hearing that slots are the ones that cause heat due to cleaning of pads that causes greater friction.. and drilled are the exact opposite (creates cooling, reduces heat).. but that's from what other's said. just my input.

fsttyms1

each type of rotor serves a different purpose.xdrilled cool better than slotted, but they dont last as long (due to increased chances of cracking) . slotted rotors will allow better braking due to better degasing at temp
every racer would go to a ceramic rotor if rules allowed, but many dont. ceramic rotors dont suffer heat related problems like normal rotors (cast iron)
as for teh plating most of its just on there to keep from rusting and for looks

moahdriven

good info thread. Id probably go with slotted since they last longer, but yea drilled to look much nicer.

hey jus a Q...wut color calipers u think would look good with my red tl? Red, Silver?

fsttyms1

silver


these are my last set of drilled rotors. see the cracking

moahdriven

yea slotted definitley

etxxz

and if you look 2 holes over it seems like you have another crack coming.

Guys, rotor pro duds, i wanna hear some thoughts on about Zinc, Cadmium and Nikel platings...And combination of slotted and drilled

I was just checking out ebay and i came across this Dimpled/Slotted rotors...dimple = drilled but holes dont go completely across. What's their purpose vs full drilled holes?



Plating: lasts about a year and costs ~ $30 to re-"plate" all 4. Cadmium>Zinc?Nickel

aaronnn

how long was it before this happened??? aggghh. after i saw these i want to take out my freakin brembos.. i knew i shoulda just gone for the flats..

69ssrscam

Here is some info I posted a while back on dimple vs. cross drilled rotors-->

Here are the rotors I have:
1 set of front and rear Race Concepts Dimple Drilled and Slotted Rotors -Total Cost: ($270)

I heard about Race Concepts' rotors from austin519 on CarDomain, and he had nothing but good to say about them. Considering the rotors they offered for the TL were dimple drilled AND slotted, for only $150, it's something I couldn't pass up.

For those that are reading this and don't know, all rotors are not created equal. They can be dimple drilled, cross drilled, and/or slotted. What these techniques do is give the rotor a way to cool off faster by creating more surface area, and allowing cooling deeper within the metal. Stock rotors would quickly crack when a very high performance (aka high friction coefficient) pad is applied to them because they would heat up too quickly and to too high of a temperature. The slots also "bite" into the pads and create more friction.

Secondly, and this is an effect when using stock pads OR aftermarket pads, you will experience less "brake fade" when using slotted rotors. While braking, hot gases build up between the rotor and brake pad, and much like the "water droplets skipping over a hot skillet" phenomenom, cause the pads to come in less contact with the rotors. By drilling holes through or slotting rotors, you are giving the gas a way to escape.

Now, most people in the car performance market know what cross drilled rotors are, and if you're one of those you may ask "Why are these dimple drilled?". First, dimple drilling is drilling the rotor, but not all the way through. So I have to make a distinction here...some rotors are cast with holes in them, such as the Brembo kits, others are drilled by aftermarket companies from "blanks", or rotors that have no drilled holes or slots cast in them. Unless you want to pay premiums for these cast rotors, then you're going to buy them from a company that does them aftermarket.

What a lot of people have run into, and this is the reason that aftermarket drilling has gotten a bad name, is that aftermarket drilled rotors tend to crack easier. The reason for this is that by drilling through a blank cast rotor, the drilling machine creates stress within the metal, which will lead to it cracking sooner. Race Concepts will do a full cross drill if you ask, but prefers to dimple drill, because dimpling the rotors has near the same cooling efficiency and doesn't create this stress in the rotor.

Hope this info is helpful.

69ssrscam

Here is a great link that covers the details on why brake rotors warp:

http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm

fsttyms1

that was about 50k.
on my last car with a brembo big brake kit i warped and cracked the rotors in about 35k. who makes them is less important as to how you drive them. if you drive them like you stole them they wont last no matter how high quality they are. (i warped and cracked a brembo big brake kit on my last car)

you shouldnt have a problem. just keep a eye on them from time to time. also what pads are you using?

DUECE_DXJ

I'm looking at some new brakes,but I don't know what to get.I been shopping at brakeworld.com.they had cast iron brembo's and carbon steel discitalia rotors.both rotors are drilled and slotted.which would u go with.I know nothing about rotor's.

aaronnn

im using axxis pads. i got them for a really good deal.. 30/pair.. so i just left them in. but after i bought them i heard bad stories about them. hopefully it wouldnt kill my rotors.

etxxz

cross your fingers


New info i read online. Apparently having a combination of Drills and Slots not only helps to break, but helps you devower you pads faster AND increases the chances of cracking (cut too much from rotor integrity)



69SSRSCAM: i've talked to raceconcepts in the past, they sell those things on ebay for $150+36shipping +($8 per rotor if Slotted/Drilled/Dimple+Slotted only)...But im confused on the Difference between Dimple and Drilled (other than holes not going all the way thru

~informational "bump"

69ssrscam

Dimple drilling causes less metal fatigue on the rotors than cross drilling, and as a result, would be less likely to crack under extreme heat.

fsttyms1

that is possible ANY time you take metal out of the rotor.
you wont crack with just slots. its very unlikely that you will with dimples and slots. its probibable that you will crack with slots and holes or just holes. having slots wont make it more likely, since with slots in the rotors there are less holes to cause fatuge.

as for pads getting eaten up faster, That depends on the pad being used. ive got sloted rotors that are x-drilled. i have over 40k on them, the pads are at about half live right now and the rotors are just fine (but the pads still suck axxis ultimates, which ill never buy again. the factory pad is better than the axxis)

Faizalstar

was thinkin the same thing, i have firepepper red also. i was thinking silver or black gloss.

etxxz

JUST ORDERED my new Raceconcept Slotted rotors from Ben, good dud.

i needed some, THE DEALER WANTED $649.xx to FIX MY WARPING!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!

Anyhow's just checked on the Platings:
Cadmium: Most effective, but kinda costly against rust prevention. Will last about 2years more or less depending on how you drive. VERY SHINY METAL finish ~ show.
Zinc: marine boat oriented theory, WORKS, its much cheaper than CAD. Lasts about the same, not so shiny but it gives it a more opaque silverish look.
Nickel: no such thing for rotors...if you like fishing then you'll know what its fo' foo'!





**what are you doing here...gotto sleep you got work to do tomorow!

etxxz

Something that people might NOT know is that the rotor will never look like it does all silverish and bright. The playing is ONLY for the non-friction part of the rotor with the break pads. Cause the pretty silverish look goes away after a 20minutes of driving.

I already installed and drove my new RC rotors. they seem good, lets see what happens during the next few days.

optomos

The only problem with rotors that are drilled or slotted ie anything besides a blank, can NOT be turned. So if your rotors warp you are SOL. I was thinking of going that route when one day I was talking to a pep boys service manager.

Against his wishes his wife bought a benz. Well the rotors warped on the car not long after she had bought it. So he takes them of thinking 'ill just turn these things and put new pads on'. Well what he explained to me was that because of the holes/slots on the rotors, the machines that turn rotors cannot turn them because once the bit starts to remove the metal on the rotor it hits the hole or the slot and breaks off.
His recommendation to me was get an aftermarket blank rotor and good pads and if the rotors warp, take them off and have them turned for 8 bucks a pop. Alot cheaper then new ones, or in his case it cost him over 4 grand for the benz cause the rotors were a dealer only part.

yunginTL

how much have u guys seen c/s Brembo pads goin for?