Replacing Engine Mounts
10-30-2005, 05:14 PM
#42
Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
Mine also moves up about an inch. I think that is normal movement, but would likt to know for sure as well.
Is our side mount supposed to "leak" something out of it?? Would a bad side mount make the car shake from side to side?
Would you guys suggest to replace my side mount first or the front one?
Is our side mount supposed to "leak" something out of it?? Would a bad side mount make the car shake from side to side?
Would you guys suggest to replace my side mount first or the front one?
10-30-2005, 06:21 PM
#43
One other thing....
When I put the jack under the oil pan it lifted the entire car so how do you replace the front motor mount when the engine doesn't separate from it. Otherwise said, I can lift the engine up to get the bolt under it.
I hope that makes sense....
When I put the jack under the oil pan it lifted the entire car so how do you replace the front motor mount when the engine doesn't separate from it. Otherwise said, I can lift the engine up to get the bolt under it.
I hope that makes sense....
10-30-2005, 07:34 PM
#44
Originally Posted by pixrob
When I put the jack under the oil pan it lifted the entire car ...
10-30-2005, 07:34 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by pixrob
When I pulled the failed side mount there was a brown rusty water that came out of it. I couldn't see that the side had failed without removing some parts but then it was quite visibile.
Why would that happen?
10-31-2005, 07:47 PM
#46
Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
SAME HERE!!!! That is why Ithought it might me hydraulic also!
Why would that happen?
Why would that happen?
Any ideas on how much the engine should move?
10-31-2005, 07:52 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by pixrob
One other thing....
When I put the jack under the oil pan it lifted the entire car so how do you replace the front motor mount when the engine doesn't separate from it. Otherwise said, I can lift the engine up to get the bolt under it.
I hope that makes sense....
When I put the jack under the oil pan it lifted the entire car so how do you replace the front motor mount when the engine doesn't separate from it. Otherwise said, I can lift the engine up to get the bolt under it.
I hope that makes sense....
here is a pic. #11
Cant say for sure because i replaced mine when i pulled my tranny out and had the lower subframe removed.
10-31-2005, 08:42 PM
#48
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Wow I cant make much sence of tall that, but we have to take apart the sub-frame?
Im going to try to replace my front one tomorrow. Ill let you all know.
Im going to try to replace my front one tomorrow. Ill let you all know.
10-31-2005, 09:00 PM
#49
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you do not remove the cradle, the engine has to be lifted a few inches, that's where the labor price comes in...the front mount is attached to the the C shaped part of the subframe directly on top of the #11, it gets unbolted from the cradle...don't bend/fuck up your cradle, it is much much much much much much much more expensive to replace than all of the mounts combined
a good way to see if the mounts are broken is to turn the car on, put it in drive and hold the brake down...you need one person in the driver's seat and one person looking at the engine while the hood is up....keep your foot on the brake and give it some gas slowly, if the engine rocks excessively, you can see which way it goes and you will know what mount is bad. the front is the only one that is hydraulic, and it is the most expensive....labor + parts were about $280 from proctor acura in tallahassee fl for the hydraulic mount
and for the dude that got charged for 11 hours of analysis got blatantly ripped off, you need to get your money back...
a good way to see if the mounts are broken is to turn the car on, put it in drive and hold the brake down...you need one person in the driver's seat and one person looking at the engine while the hood is up....keep your foot on the brake and give it some gas slowly, if the engine rocks excessively, you can see which way it goes and you will know what mount is bad. the front is the only one that is hydraulic, and it is the most expensive....labor + parts were about $280 from proctor acura in tallahassee fl for the hydraulic mount
and for the dude that got charged for 11 hours of analysis got blatantly ripped off, you need to get your money back...
10-31-2005, 10:20 PM
#51
Originally Posted by TallyCL-S
if the engine rocks excessively, ...
Having replaced my side mount it moves a TON less than it did....
Thanks guys..
Rob
11-01-2005, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pixrob
Having replaced my side mount it moves a TON less than it did....
11-01-2005, 10:47 AM
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When I had the tranny replaced they told me I needed engine mounts too, front and side. Told me you had to drop the engine cradle to do the front one. I took it home, bought the mounts and did it myself, 2 hours for both. The front mount comes out through the top, just gotta pull the top rad hose to the side, so do it when the engine's cool, and don't forget to unhook the hydraulic line going to the bottom of the mount.
For those that got ripped off, and anyone who's paid more than $200.00 labor (which is still too much, but shops aren't charities) got ripped off, you have my condolences!!!
For those that got ripped off, and anyone who's paid more than $200.00 labor (which is still too much, but shops aren't charities) got ripped off, you have my condolences!!!
11-01-2005, 01:11 PM
#54
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Im waiting for my engine to cool so I can replace my fron motor mount!! Should be ready in 30 min. or so.
Got the car on jack stands, hood open, tools out and ready to work.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
Got the car on jack stands, hood open, tools out and ready to work.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
11-01-2005, 02:34 PM
#55
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OK, WTF is going on with all of these failed engine mounts? An engine mount should almost never fail if it is designed correctly, unless there is some sort of serious abuse or collision. I'm wondering if this is yet another Acura part that needs to have a service bulletin issued.
Just out of curiosity, are these failed mounts occurring on cars with AT or 6MT?
Just out of curiosity, are these failed mounts occurring on cars with AT or 6MT?
11-01-2005, 03:01 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by shockwave
OK, WTF is going on with all of these failed engine mounts? An engine mount should almost never fail if it is designed correctly, unless there is some sort of serious abuse or collision. I'm wondering if this is yet another Acura part that needs to have a service bulletin issued.
Just out of curiosity, are these failed mounts occurring on cars with AT or 6MT?
Just out of curiosity, are these failed mounts occurring on cars with AT or 6MT?
11-01-2005, 03:12 PM
#57
Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
Please describe the movement before and after the changed mount.
Prior to the change, the engine moved on the right and front when reved. Now, it moves about a inch or so when reved but only in the front. I would say it lifts up. The ride is better so I'm think that perhaps only the side had failed and the front is fine.
11-01-2005, 03:14 PM
#58
[QUOTE=PeteTLS]When I had the tranny replaced they told me I needed engine mounts too, front and side. Told me you had to drop the engine cradle to do the front one. I took it home, bought the mounts and did it myself, 2 hours for both. The front mount comes out through the top, just gotta pull the top rad hose to the side, so do it when the engine's cool, and don't forget to unhook the hydraulic line going to the bottom of the mount.QUOTE]
A couple of questions about your technique. How did you get the top bolt out of the hole and the new one back in. That's the part that I couldn't figure out.
A couple of questions about your technique. How did you get the top bolt out of the hole and the new one back in. That's the part that I couldn't figure out.
11-01-2005, 03:50 PM
#59
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OK people done!!!
It took about 1.5 -2 hours, by myself with limited tools in my apartment driveway!
test drove and its 95% better, I think the passenger side went bad after three months of driving with the front one bad!
IM *UCKING STOKED, NO MORE LETTING PEOPLE PASS ME!!!
It took about 1.5 -2 hours, by myself with limited tools in my apartment driveway!
test drove and its 95% better, I think the passenger side went bad after three months of driving with the front one bad!
IM *UCKING STOKED, NO MORE LETTING PEOPLE PASS ME!!!
11-01-2005, 07:01 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
My cost was 120 for part and 2 hours of loving my car!
11-01-2005, 07:37 PM
#65
Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
Very straight forward. I just got scratched up a bit. It would be much easier with a buddy, but Im a champ!! 
Now for the other one!!
Now for the other one!!
So you changed the front mount right? If so, can you tell me how you got the engine out of the way to get clearance for the bolt on the top of the mount?
I've looked at this several times and without removing the sub-frame thing I don't see how you do it....
11-01-2005, 08:51 PM
#66
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Originally Posted by pixrob
So you changed the front mount right? If so, can you tell me how you got the engine out of the way to get clearance for the bolt on the top of the mount?
I've looked at this several times and without removing the sub-frame thing I don't see how you do it....
I've looked at this several times and without removing the sub-frame thing I don't see how you do it....
11-02-2005, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pixrob
So you changed the front mount right? If so, can you tell me how you got the engine out of the way to get clearance for the bolt on the top of the mount?
I've looked at this several times and without removing the sub-frame thing I don't see how you do it....
I've looked at this several times and without removing the sub-frame thing I don't see how you do it....
Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands.
Pull all the little clips out of the plastic guard under the motor.
Undo the bolts for the bracket connected to the motor, (2 underneith, 1 up top.)
Loosen the four bolts connecting the mount to the sub-frame. (they all need long extensions.)
Undo the bolt on top of the mount.
Take the four bolts out.
Twist the mount inplace and lay it on its side.
Pull it out from the drivers side by holding the upper radiator hose to the left.
It will barely squeeze out!
Voila!!
Repeat the steps to replace with new mount. I suggest to attach the mounting bracket to the engine loosly to be able to slide the top of the mount through the hole. That is a bitch, but VERY doable!
Good luck friends.
I will be getting a side mount soon and let you all know what the deal is then!
11-02-2005, 09:50 PM
#68
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which side?
11-03-2005, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MY2002TLS
Here is a step by step SUGGESTION of how to replace the front mount.....
Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands.
Pull all the little clips out of the plastic guard under the motor.
Undo the bolts for the bracket connected to the motor, (2 underneith, 1 up top.)
Loosen the four bolts connecting the mount to the sub-frame. (they all need long extensions.)
Undo the bolt on top of the mount.
Take the four bolts out.
Twist the mount inplace and lay it on its side.
Pull it out from the drivers side by holding the upper radiator hose to the left.
It will barely squeeze out!
Voila!!
Repeat the steps to replace with new mount. I suggest to attach the mounting bracket to the engine loosly to be able to slide the top of the mount through the hole. That is a bitch, but VERY doable!
Good luck friends.
I will be getting a side mount soon and let you all know what the deal is then!
Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands.
Pull all the little clips out of the plastic guard under the motor.
Undo the bolts for the bracket connected to the motor, (2 underneith, 1 up top.)
Loosen the four bolts connecting the mount to the sub-frame. (they all need long extensions.)
Undo the bolt on top of the mount.
Take the four bolts out.
Twist the mount inplace and lay it on its side.
Pull it out from the drivers side by holding the upper radiator hose to the left.
It will barely squeeze out!
Voila!!
Repeat the steps to replace with new mount. I suggest to attach the mounting bracket to the engine loosly to be able to slide the top of the mount through the hole. That is a bitch, but VERY doable!
Good luck friends.
I will be getting a side mount soon and let you all know what the deal is then!
11-04-2005, 09:41 PM
#71
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just replaced front and side motor mount with the help of my cuz. dealer says that they can hardly keep the front mounts in stock. sounds like they go out far too frequently!!!
peter
peter
11-05-2005, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
You got some splainin to do Lucy.
Are the mounts...
5 - front
6 - rear
7 - left
Imma confused.
Are the mounts...
5 - front
6 - rear
7 - left
Imma confused.
The front and rear are the largest ones. I think the side mount is more for stability. ---please correct me if im mistaken---
11-05-2005, 12:18 AM
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Ok so 5 and 34 are one in the same. 34 is a cover that comes attached to the mount. I would say that 34 is the best picture of the WHOLE mount.
9 is the bracket mount to the block.
7 is the side mount and 4 and 8 are the brackets.
10 is the bracket ount for the rear motor mount.
Hope this helps.
9 is the bracket mount to the block.
7 is the side mount and 4 and 8 are the brackets.
10 is the bracket ount for the rear motor mount.
Hope this helps.
11-09-2005, 01:50 PM
#75
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
You got some splainin to do Lucy.
Are the mounts...
5 - front
6 - rear
7 - left
Imma confused.
Are the mounts...
5 - front
6 - rear
7 - left
Imma confused.
11-09-2005, 02:04 PM
#77
Originally Posted by bkzjimmy
today i was quoted by my mechanic for $255 to change my front(34) and right(7) motor mounts.
parts-- front $115 and right $60
labor--$80
sound fair????
parts-- front $115 and right $60
labor--$80
sound fair????
11-09-2005, 02:08 PM
#78
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Originally Posted by optomos
You bet it does. I paid almost that just for the front mount.
