Regarding Throttle gas cable adjustment.
#1
Regarding Throttle gas cable adjustment.
Sup Aziners!
I have been seeing a lot of "EricTheCarGuy" videos on youtube and one of those mentioned something about the Throttle body Gas Cable adjustment.
Now I went to my car and saw this adjustment and noticed a little bit of slack on my cable (Compared to the Cruise Control cable which is good).. So while adjusting it I noticed that the spring in the Butterfly has like a 2 Stage.. One is like its making pressure but the butterfly doesn't open until a certain point when you press the gas and it start to open the throttle. I'm pretty sure the first stage doesn't affect the TPS at All since it doesn't move the butterfly until the 2 stage.
What would happened if I say: Heck lets remove the slack even from the 1st stage spring? So now when I push the pedal the Butterfly really opens with it (Making the Gas more lively?).. Did several tests on idle while in park and it didn't seem to affect it or make the car idle higher while off the gas (Like if the adjustment made the butterfly just a tad open). But I'm having doubts of actually test driving it
Any thoughts?
I have been seeing a lot of "EricTheCarGuy" videos on youtube and one of those mentioned something about the Throttle body Gas Cable adjustment.
Now I went to my car and saw this adjustment and noticed a little bit of slack on my cable (Compared to the Cruise Control cable which is good).. So while adjusting it I noticed that the spring in the Butterfly has like a 2 Stage.. One is like its making pressure but the butterfly doesn't open until a certain point when you press the gas and it start to open the throttle. I'm pretty sure the first stage doesn't affect the TPS at All since it doesn't move the butterfly until the 2 stage.
What would happened if I say: Heck lets remove the slack even from the 1st stage spring? So now when I push the pedal the Butterfly really opens with it (Making the Gas more lively?).. Did several tests on idle while in park and it didn't seem to affect it or make the car idle higher while off the gas (Like if the adjustment made the butterfly just a tad open). But I'm having doubts of actually test driving it
Any thoughts?
Last edited by Skirmich; 11-26-2013 at 09:07 PM.
#2
Yeah EricTheCarGuy was what motivated me to work on my own TL, He's really good with his stuff.
Now on to the butterfly thing, I believe that the 1nd stage is there as redundancy just incase one spring fails, Now if adjusted to no slack the pedal will become more sensitive.
I wont try this on mine since the tranny is already jerking forward with the slightest tap on the gas lol.
Now on to the butterfly thing, I believe that the 1nd stage is there as redundancy just incase one spring fails, Now if adjusted to no slack the pedal will become more sensitive.
I wont try this on mine since the tranny is already jerking forward with the slightest tap on the gas lol.
#3
skirm the throttle cable needs that 1/4 inch slack when pressed with thumb
it makes sure the throttle butterfly is closed properly so the IACV can work right
best thing to do is clean both sides and edges of the big round TB air plate with carb cleaner or deep creep (which also lubes butterfly hinge pin)
also remove and lube (use bicycle cable luber $3 harbor freight) with DC or silicone
both throttle and cruise cables, and return spring inside cabin at gas (and brake) pedals
erik= have you tried using slightly more throttle off the line at shift- to force more line pressure- also test it using manual SS mode to shift 1-2 --make it smoother?
if so then a fluid change with dw1 is in order
the shift selenoids-pressure switches get dirty- can clean manually or the brave run seafoam trans or motorpurr trans cleaner then change all the fluid and the external filter
it makes sure the throttle butterfly is closed properly so the IACV can work right
best thing to do is clean both sides and edges of the big round TB air plate with carb cleaner or deep creep (which also lubes butterfly hinge pin)
also remove and lube (use bicycle cable luber $3 harbor freight) with DC or silicone
both throttle and cruise cables, and return spring inside cabin at gas (and brake) pedals
erik= have you tried using slightly more throttle off the line at shift- to force more line pressure- also test it using manual SS mode to shift 1-2 --make it smoother?
if so then a fluid change with dw1 is in order
the shift selenoids-pressure switches get dirty- can clean manually or the brave run seafoam trans or motorpurr trans cleaner then change all the fluid and the external filter
#4
I noticed the same thing on my car when I was cleaning the throttle body and lubing the cables. My first thought was to tinker with it but decided to leave it alone.
If it`s not broke and can`t upgrade or modify leave it alone.
Note: Unless it gives me more HP!
If it`s not broke and can`t upgrade or modify leave it alone.
Note: Unless it gives me more HP!
#5
UPDATE!!!
I just did a 500 mile trip with almost zero slack setting! making sure the butterfly stays closed when off the throttle. Its so nice to have complete control over the Gas with just the thumb you are already moving..
Zero Slack = Instant response with no downsides...
@01tl4tl
I just carefully setup so it stays closed just leaved 1/10ths of slack didnt completely remove it.
I just did a 500 mile trip with almost zero slack setting! making sure the butterfly stays closed when off the throttle. Its so nice to have complete control over the Gas with just the thumb you are already moving..
Zero Slack = Instant response with no downsides...
@01tl4tl
I just carefully setup so it stays closed just leaved 1/10ths of slack didnt completely remove it.
Last edited by Skirmich; 11-29-2013 at 06:23 PM.
#6
So this adjustment will increase response. Nice
01tl4tl its on a rebuild and even before the rebuild it was the same way I,ve checked all solenoids and done drain and fills yearly. I just learned to live with it, every one that drives the car tells me what do you have it in racing mode or something lol it accelerates fast off the line .
Theres no check engine light either, after alot of research I found out that the torque converter is dragging which makes the engine shake and look like a misfire when its not. Heres a link to the thread about it : https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/idle-pulsation-fixed-898629/
01tl4tl its on a rebuild and even before the rebuild it was the same way I,ve checked all solenoids and done drain and fills yearly. I just learned to live with it, every one that drives the car tells me what do you have it in racing mode or something lol it accelerates fast off the line .
Theres no check engine light either, after alot of research I found out that the torque converter is dragging which makes the engine shake and look like a misfire when its not. Heres a link to the thread about it : https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/idle-pulsation-fixed-898629/
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