So I replaced my warped front rotors with Brembo blanks and Proact ceramic pads about a year ago. Within 4 months, front rotors were warped as hell again. Thinking about trying a slotted rotor to see if that will help. Is it recommended to get new pads if the rotors are replaced, or can I keep my current pads (which have plenty of life left)?

 

im not sure, when i got EBC rotors and pads the recommended replacing the pads if you got new rotors. it depends on the rotor manufacture, but i would replace them. check to see of the are glazed over. EBC makes a pad called green stuff which is good for many rotors and i think all EBC pads have an abrasive break in layer.

but im still not sure, you might be able to still use the pads again.

 

Also, if anyone has a recommendation on a slotted rotor, that would also be appreciated. For reference, I use my TL strictly for street driving. No track days, don't race it, and I drive about as aggressive as anyone does in a crowded metropolitan area (Northern VA). Highway driving where traffic suddenly goes from 75 mph to 10 mph is commonplace, so the brakes definitely get a workout.

 

I'm sure that Gold2003TL would agree that EBC slotted/dimpled rotors paired with EBC RedStuff pads are a good combination. I also upgraded my brakelines to stainless steel and the combo has been really good. Low dust, great stopping, good pedal feel. They were a little noisy at first, but are fine now. It's been over a year and they're better than ever.

 

yea EBC dimpled and slotted with red stuff pads are very good brakes. strong firm stopping power and no warpage to day. they do make a little noise at first, but after that they are great. and are very powerful even when wet.

 

Your current combo is actually a good set. I am surprised it warped in 4 months. Slotted rotors are not going to help. I used old pads before with new rotors and have no problems, eventhough the rule of thumb is to use new pads with new rotors or vice versa. Just go easy on the new rotors for the pads to break in that was how I did it. Make sure your balljoins, cv joins, tires, or other things are not the cause to the vibration and warpping.

 

I'm not too knowledgeable on such things, so how could a ball joint, CV Joint, or tire issue cause my front rotors to warp? I've heard that over tigtening the wheel has been thought to contribute to warping, but not aware of any other causes.

I also have an issue with front wheel vibration between about 63 and 68 mph. Sometimes it is worse than others. It started as soon as I replaced the stock Michelins with Yokohama Avid V4s. Roadforce balancing, and numerous other attempts did not fix it. Finally replaced those with Michelin Primacy, and had them RoadForce balanced at the tire shop and then again at the dealer, and had them investigate all possible causes of the vibration, and it is still there. I've just learned to live with it. Tech at the dealer said that they are RoadForce balanced within the allowable variance, but that the steering/suspension on the TL is very sensitive and even then there will be some vibration. It is smooth up to 62/63, and is barely noticeable over 70.

 

check out the ball joints, pry them with a bar and check for movement

 

The tire shop and the dealer checked everything they could think of.

 

if you can, re tq the lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs, evenly. get the rotors hot by doing a few brake tests, and drive them out for 20 min or so they cool down properly. see if that helps.

 

I've seen others w/ vibration issues post on here that replacing the axle(s) cured their vibration problem.