rear engine mount diy question

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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 04:32 PM
  #1  
bruistopher's Avatar
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From: Wilmington, DE
rear engine mount diy question

just wanted to know from fellow ziners that worked on the engine mounts or for this matter the rear engine mount.

is it difficult to do by yourself in your drive way or does it require more work?

Gracias los amigos...
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #2  
01tl4tl's Avatar
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have you looked in the DIY thread list?
go to main thread page for gen2- same as when you logged in
look down 3 items and official DIY thread list is right there
ck it for motor mounts
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #3  
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i found the two threads:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor

i just wanted to know if its difficult to remove and put back that's all.

Is it difficult to remove and put back on? i know the front and side mounts are easy, and i'm sure the transmission mounts are easy too. but the rear looks a bit complicated.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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No, I am currently doing mine as we speak literally and the only complications I've ran into are the tools...make sure your tools can handle the job A.K.A don't go cheap,lol...it's a breeze really...few scrapes and tired arms, but it's better than going to the STEALERship (dealership).
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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easy
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #6  
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
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changing the rear mount is just a bitch, lying on top of the engine and all, i am sure second time around it will be easier but its just a pain, not too difficult.

i removed the 3 rear coil packs so i can get my arms back there, along with the strut tower bar. make sure you have some long extensions and possibly a breaker bar or impact wrench for those rusty ass bolts.

i just picked up some ratcheting open ended wrenches and a set of long handle metric, which will make thing a lot better where a sockets dont fit too easy. which will help make the front mount a breeze.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:20 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by gold2003tl (90)
i just picked up some ratcheting open ended wrenches and a set of long handle metric, which will make thing a lot better where a sockets dont fit too easy. which will help make the front mount a breeze.
Yup, wish I had some ratcheting wrenches for when I did my front mount. Had your regular old wrench and that rear right bolt took forever (went at it from under since no extensions/u-joints).
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #8  
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
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From: Reading, PA
Originally Posted by dudeinaTL
Yup, wish I had some ratcheting wrenches for when I did my front mount. Had your regular old wrench and that rear right bolt took forever (went at it from under since no extensions/u-joints).
yea same for me i went from underneath with a reg wrench, that bolt was a bitch to get out and back in.

hey, did you have to unbolt that top piece of the front mount and hold it out of the way in order to back that bolt out all the way? because the bolts would back out and then hit the front mount for me, by removing that piece i was able to back them out. just wondering if that would be a problem if the mount would be poly filled.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gold2003tl (90)
hey, did you have to unbolt that top piece of the front mount and hold it out of the way in order to back that bolt out all the way? because the bolts would back out and then hit the front mount for me, by removing that piece i was able to back them out. just wondering if that would be a problem if the mount would be poly filled.
Nah I didn't take out the top piece of the mount, but I know what you're talking about. If you unbolt the mount from the subframe first you'll be able to swivel the mount on-axis to give you enough room to get those two engine-bracket bolts fully out. This is assuming you've got the engine jacked up high enough so that the locking tab of the engine-bracket isn't touching the mount.

Last edited by dudeinaTL; Aug 22, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:52 PM
  #10  
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
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From: Reading, PA
Originally Posted by dudeinaTL
Nah I didn't take out the top piece of the mount, but I know what you're talking about. If you unbolt the mount from the subframe first you'll be able to swivel the mount on-axis to give you enough room to get those two engine-bracket bolts fully out. This is assuming you've got the engine jacked up high enough so that the locking tab of the engine-bracket isn't touching the mount.
i see now, thanks a lot man. since i will be needing to do that when i poly fill my front mount.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #11  
bruistopher's Avatar
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Originally Posted by AcurazinesFinestTL
No, I am currently doing mine as we speak literally and the only complications I've ran into are the tools...make sure your tools can handle the job A.K.A don't go cheap,lol...it's a breeze really...few scrapes and tired arms, but it's better than going to the STEALERship (dealership).
just to update. today i went to the stearlership to find out a quote on the labor and part. well they had to order the part which was $228 and the labor would of been $250. i said forget it. i will come get the part tomorrow and i will do the labor myself.

so what extensions will i need? this is my first time doing the mount replacement myself. I know i will need extensions and a breaker bar. but the room to squeeze those extensions down there is not there. I mean i will need some socket that can unbolt from an angle.

Originally Posted by gold2003tl (90)
changing the rear mount is just a bitch, lying on top of the engine and all, i am sure second time around it will be easier but its just a pain, not too difficult.

i removed the 3 rear coil packs so i can get my arms back there, along with the strut tower bar. make sure you have some long extensions and possibly a breaker bar or impact wrench for those rusty ass bolts.

i just picked up some ratcheting open ended wrenches and a set of long handle metric, which will make thing a lot better where a sockets dont fit too easy. which will help make the front mount a breeze.
so in essence the rear mount is annoying but its not difficult to remove. how about installation?
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 06:46 PM
  #12  
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
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From: Reading, PA
i think the hardest part is removing the two 14mm bolts that are close to the exhaust. very tight space. i had to break them loose with a 1/2 ratchet. then back them out with a wrench i believe. since a ratchet will hit the motor mount once the bolt backs out a little bit. one bolt you can get from the bottom, and the other is from the side. those are not too bad, they are 17mm i think. the bolts that hold the rear mount onto the sub frame are not too hard, but you need to have a long extension, like 12'' +. i attached some longer extensions up out of the engine bay and used an impact wrench to break them loose.

take your time, dont get frustrated. its a tough job because of the tight spaces. check out our diy section for instructions. get a feel for the space and working conditions (like lay on top of engine and reach back there) before you start the job.


i recommend removing the strut tower bar, and the 3 rear coil packs, well worth doing to give you more room. you can also move the power steering hose off to the side slightly. jack the car up and break the bottom bolt free on the bracket first and anything else you can reach from underneath. then let the car down. you will have to lay on top of the engine, place padding or cloth on the engine covers and anything your legs, arms or body will be on. protect the car, and your body. place the jack on the oil pan and with a block of wood to get the engine to rise and lift the weight off the mount.

the job was a bitch for me, but it was over 90 degree and humid when i did mine, heat makes me go crazy. took me a good 6 hours start to finish, but then again maybe i work slow . installing the mount was much easier than taking it out, threading the bolts was a little tricky, had to play with the jack to get them to line up.
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