Rear endlink advice
I have this occasional clunk in the left rear while taking turns on uneven surfaces. Got under the car today and started tugging things and I can get the left endlink to make a sound now and then, not the right.
Since a turn puts waaay more stress than I can, I assume that's the issue.
From what I've read, the moog's endlinks are the way to go; If I go moog, I should replace both stock rear endlinks. Can I leave the stock sway bar though?
The bushings look ok; I really don't need any performance gains now so I don't think I need an Eibach sway (I also have no desire to change the front sway). So, if I keep the stock bar, should I buy new bushings or leave all as-is and just change the endlinks? (FYI - 189K miles on this whole setup).
Thanks!
Since a turn puts waaay more stress than I can, I assume that's the issue.
From what I've read, the moog's endlinks are the way to go; If I go moog, I should replace both stock rear endlinks. Can I leave the stock sway bar though?
The bushings look ok; I really don't need any performance gains now so I don't think I need an Eibach sway (I also have no desire to change the front sway). So, if I keep the stock bar, should I buy new bushings or leave all as-is and just change the endlinks? (FYI - 189K miles on this whole setup).
Thanks!
new endlinks should make it back to normal (both ends are recommended, cause who knows when the other side will snap)
so just replace those, and deal with the other things if they every surface, which probably won't
so just replace those, and deal with the other things if they every surface, which probably won't
why does every one complain about the installation of the stock ones, cause a pair of vise grips, and a impact does wounders, especially when we don't get cars that rust like the north east
(btw installation is a breeze especially if new, it's the removeal that sucks at times)
(btw installation is a breeze especially if new, it's the removeal that sucks at times)
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tight, but not gorilla strength though
tighten the nut, then when it bottoms out, give it like half a turn to a full turn or so
but yes there are torque specs on every bolt/screw inside a car, including the ones to hold on interior panels, typical engineers
, but i don't know them off the top of my head though
(anyways those endlinks will probably come with some sort of instructions, that will mention torque specs somewhere in there)
tighten the nut, then when it bottoms out, give it like half a turn to a full turn or so
but yes there are torque specs on every bolt/screw inside a car, including the ones to hold on interior panels, typical engineers
, but i don't know them off the top of my head though
(anyways those endlinks will probably come with some sort of instructions, that will mention torque specs somewhere in there)
Last edited by friesm2000; May 15, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
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