rear brakepads

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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:22 PM
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From: Appleton WI
rear brakepads

just thought id let say i just changed both sides (this includes taking tires off and on) in 14 min. God i LOVE air tools!
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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Lets just hope it takes me the same amount of time tomorrow And another 14 for the fronts



Some how I dont think I will
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:51 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by Bxscig
Lets just hope it takes me the same amount of time tomorrow And another 14 for the fronts



Some how I dont think I will
withthe right tools and it raining on you its possible
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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i want air tools!!

after i bought a set of snap-ons i thought i was livin the life. damn technology these days
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by aaronnn
i want air tools!!

after i bought a set of snap-ons i thought i was livin the life. damn technology these days
air tools rule! now i need a bigger aircompressor. (looking at a 80 gallon 2 stage belt driven 220v with air dryer on the intake side so that i never need to drain the tank) (insert tim allen laugh here oHoHoHoHoH)
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:44 PM
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im changing my rear pads tomorrow, and yes, you've guess it, no air tools So a painful process because Im sure the calipers bolts are rusted a bit, maybe, im hoping not.

Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?

(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:48 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
im changing my rear pads tomorrow, and yes, you've guess it, no air tools So a painful process because Im sure the calipers bolts are rusted a bit, maybe, im hoping not.

Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?

(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
just 2, 12 mm bolts and you will prob need a 17mm box wrench to hold the bolt from continually spinning.
some require a tool to turn their rear pistons in????? mine (2000) just pushes in. no need to do any thing with the fluid
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:52 PM
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i have 00 TL as well, so that should be the same. I never changed my rear myself, only the front, so can you pleae clarify which two bolts?
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
i have 00 TL as well, so that should be the same. I never changed my rear myself, only the front, so can you pleae clarify which two bolts?
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
you could take out just 1 on the tl if the brake line was longer but it isnt long enough to do that, so you need to remove both. they are the floater bolts with the rubber piece inbetween
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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thanx Kris.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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Looks like tomorrow is the day to do brakes... good luck with your TeknoKing... hope I have as much luck too lol
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 12:38 AM
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you had to have prepped the pads beforehand though, so you're cheating
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 01:29 AM
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alright, I just installed my rear pads. I ran into trouble with one bolt, it wouldnt move.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.

ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).

A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by brakejobhelp
you had to have prepped the pads beforehand though, so you're cheating
no preping needed. just pull them out of the box and install them
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
alright, I just installed my rear pads. I ran into trouble with one bolt, it wouldnt move.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.

ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).

A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.

my ebc's never had a problem and lasted about 20k more than the front (which rears should) now my axis the rears died before the front which SHOULD NOT happen
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
no preping needed. just pull them out of the box and install them
i mean you need to put antisqueal on them, and let it set for 10 mins or so...
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:44 AM
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guys read between the line. I've posted that because it makes sense, he is a mechanic for 20 yrs, who drives a TL, he must know what he is talking about.

I've been always using aftermarket, so I know, Kris, I know just put the brakes in. I am sharing the info that the mechanic introduced to me. This guy all his does all day long is work on performance autocross cars.
I dont like when ppl dont read the whole post prior to replying.


thanks for the help, peace.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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It wasnt no 14 minute job but we got it done. So 12 hours later we are done, 2 cars, 4 rotors, 8 painted calipers, 8 set of brake pads, 8 nicely washed rims, tire rotation, and two dead tired guys.

Question... ebc brake pads for the rear... what was the item part # ? There were this nub that prevented the thin metal sheets like clamps from sitting flush with the back of the brake pad. I am not sure if these were the right ones but I believe all the stores sell these as for TLs. I'll get the part # later.
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