rear brakepads
#1
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Thread Starter
rear brakepads
just thought id let say i just changed both sides (this includes taking tires off and on) in 14 min. God i LOVE air tools!
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bxscig
Lets just hope it takes me the same amount of time tomorrow And another 14 for the fronts
Some how I dont think I will
Some how I dont think I will
#5
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by aaronnn
i want air tools!!
after i bought a set of snap-ons i thought i was livin the life. damn technology these days
after i bought a set of snap-ons i thought i was livin the life. damn technology these days
#6
im changing my rear pads tomorrow, and yes, you've guess it, no air tools So a painful process because Im sure the calipers bolts are rusted a bit, maybe, im hoping not.
Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?
(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?
(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
im changing my rear pads tomorrow, and yes, you've guess it, no air tools So a painful process because Im sure the calipers bolts are rusted a bit, maybe, im hoping not.
Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?
(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
Kris, for the rear, u just remove the 2 bolts, and suspend the caliper? Do I really need to use a C-Clamp? Or sithone my brake fluid from the master cylinder?
(its over 90 degrees here, im trying to do a Very fast brake job in this weather)
some require a tool to turn their rear pistons in????? mine (2000) just pushes in. no need to do any thing with the fluid
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#8
i have 00 TL as well, so that should be the same. I never changed my rear myself, only the front, so can you pleae clarify which two bolts?
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
#9
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
i have 00 TL as well, so that should be the same. I never changed my rear myself, only the front, so can you pleae clarify which two bolts?
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
I always thought for the back, u take one bolt out, to make the caliper swivel...
#10
thanx Kris.
#13
alright, I just installed my rear pads. I ran into trouble with one bolt, it wouldnt move.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.
ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).
A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.
ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).
A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.
#14
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by brakejobhelp
you had to have prepped the pads beforehand though, so you're cheating
#15
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
alright, I just installed my rear pads. I ran into trouble with one bolt, it wouldnt move.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.
ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).
A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.
So, I went to a 24/7 auto shop by me to use the air tools. 20 bux and the guy changed the pads, whatever.
ATTN: The mechanic has a 99 TL. He said that Hawks/EBC both have one problem that we dont know about. Basically, the pads, have a dimple (nipple) on each pad right in the center.
The pad that goes on the front should have that dimple, BUT the one that goes on the back should not. He said that dimple on the back pads makes us change the pads sooner. The dimples make the pads to be chewed up more/faster, plus it throws off the sensor to the master cylinder which makes the pads to get squeezed more, thus affecting the whole system. He said that if I didnt have that dimple, I would of easily had at least 6 more months of good pads to drive on. So baically, the back pads need to have that dimple shaved off (front and rear).
A good thing to know. What I've noticed that my back pads had a lot more pad life left then the ones on the front. Tirerack should know about this and make changes accordingly.
my ebc's never had a problem and lasted about 20k more than the front (which rears should) now my axis the rears died before the front which SHOULD NOT happen
#16
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
no preping needed. just pull them out of the box and install them
#17
guys read between the line. I've posted that because it makes sense, he is a mechanic for 20 yrs, who drives a TL, he must know what he is talking about.
I've been always using aftermarket, so I know, Kris, I know just put the brakes in. I am sharing the info that the mechanic introduced to me. This guy all his does all day long is work on performance autocross cars.
I dont like when ppl dont read the whole post prior to replying.
thanks for the help, peace.
I've been always using aftermarket, so I know, Kris, I know just put the brakes in. I am sharing the info that the mechanic introduced to me. This guy all his does all day long is work on performance autocross cars.
I dont like when ppl dont read the whole post prior to replying.
thanks for the help, peace.
#18
It wasnt no 14 minute job but we got it done. So 12 hours later we are done, 2 cars, 4 rotors, 8 painted calipers, 8 set of brake pads, 8 nicely washed rims, tire rotation, and two dead tired guys.
Question... ebc brake pads for the rear... what was the item part # ? There were this nub that prevented the thin metal sheets like clamps from sitting flush with the back of the brake pad. I am not sure if these were the right ones but I believe all the stores sell these as for TLs. I'll get the part # later.
Question... ebc brake pads for the rear... what was the item part # ? There were this nub that prevented the thin metal sheets like clamps from sitting flush with the back of the brake pad. I am not sure if these were the right ones but I believe all the stores sell these as for TLs. I'll get the part # later.
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