Radar Detector - Where & How Install?
#1
Radar Detector - Where & How Install?
I have a 10 day old 2003 TL-S. Having depended upon various radar detectors over the years, getting one for the TL-S became a high priority! I ended up buying an Escort Passport 8500, which now goes along with my old Valentine One. Either my wife gets the V1 & I keep the 8500, or I spend $279 to upgrade the V1, & my wife gets the 8500. But that decision isn't why I'm here ...
I've never hardwired a radar detector myself; I've always had it done for me. Now I'm considering doing it myself. Currently, I've got the 8500 mounted a little above the dashboard, in the center, using suction cups. They're holding great ... but I've always had problems with suction cups, & I've thought higher was better. So I'm wondering if anybody can suggest a better way?
Can anybody suggest an EASY method for hardwiring one of these detectors in this car? By EASY, I mean somebody who has no experience wiring a car can do in a couple of hours or less. Or should I leave it to an expensive pro? (BTW, the wiring must be easy to remove, when I return this leased car.)
In case I choose the 8500 ... do you recommend the Smartcord? What's the alternative?
Of course, once my car is taken care of, I've got my wife's Odyssey to deal with!
Thanks for your help!
Dave
I've never hardwired a radar detector myself; I've always had it done for me. Now I'm considering doing it myself. Currently, I've got the 8500 mounted a little above the dashboard, in the center, using suction cups. They're holding great ... but I've always had problems with suction cups, & I've thought higher was better. So I'm wondering if anybody can suggest a better way?
Can anybody suggest an EASY method for hardwiring one of these detectors in this car? By EASY, I mean somebody who has no experience wiring a car can do in a couple of hours or less. Or should I leave it to an expensive pro? (BTW, the wiring must be easy to remove, when I return this leased car.)
In case I choose the 8500 ... do you recommend the Smartcord? What's the alternative?
Of course, once my car is taken care of, I've got my wife's Odyssey to deal with!
Thanks for your help!
Dave
#3
Three Wheelin'
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I wanthe V1. I was thinking of mounting it on top of the rear view mirror and wiring the power around the side of the front windshield down the door post.
#5
Originally posted by Yaron2
Snapple: not a good idea b/c the bubble tint on that part of the windshield (rear view mirror area) will hinder the radar from proper or best reception ;o(
Snapple: not a good idea b/c the bubble tint on that part of the windshield (rear view mirror area) will hinder the radar from proper or best reception ;o(
#7
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Hard wire and ground it to a wire in the fuse box next to the drivers side door. Then run the wire up between the crack between the dash and the frame, and then pop off the pillar and run the cord up between it and the frame it, put the pillar back on and then you run the cord under the mirror and to the radar detector, which you mount on the windshield just to the left of the rear view mirror and just below the tint band. Takes about 20 minutes tops... just be easy on putting the pillar back on.
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#8
Originally posted by dj5
Check out this thread. This is how I installed my 8500.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=20360
Check out this thread. This is how I installed my 8500.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=20360
Dave
#9
Originally posted by unbeknownst
Hard wire and ground it to a wire in the fuse box next to the drivers side door. Then run the wire up between the crack between the dash and the frame, and then pop off the pillar and run the cord up between it and the frame it, put the pillar back on and then you run the cord under the mirror and to the radar detector, which you mount on the windshield just to the left of the rear view mirror and just below the tint band. Takes about 20 minutes tops... just be easy on putting the pillar back on.
Hard wire and ground it to a wire in the fuse box next to the drivers side door. Then run the wire up between the crack between the dash and the frame, and then pop off the pillar and run the cord up between it and the frame it, put the pillar back on and then you run the cord under the mirror and to the radar detector, which you mount on the windshield just to the left of the rear view mirror and just below the tint band. Takes about 20 minutes tops... just be easy on putting the pillar back on.
When you say to "hard wire and ground it to a wire in the fuse box" what's the best (easiest) way to connect to the existing wires?
It sounds like I'll need to run the cord along the top of the windshield. Any suggestions for doing this, so the cord doesn't fall down (as it's done in other cars where I paid to have the installation done)?
I guess there's no better solution than using the suction cups?
(Actually, they've held just fine, so far.)
I imagine using the smartcord would require a lot more work running wires ... I can live without it.
Thanks for your help!
#10
The Passport Suction Cups work fine. I had a Passport 7500 for over a year now and Ive never had a problem with the suction cups. They have never come off since the first time I suctioned them.
Mr
03 ABP TL-S
New Jersey
Mr
03 ABP TL-S
New Jersey
#11
Instructor
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To connect to the existing wires... the kit that comes from the factory has a "clip" that you just squeeze down onto a wire with pliers... and voila! As you run it across the top of the windshield, just simply place the wire ABOVE the sun visor.... all the way to the back... not sure if it would fall down some... but hey I never use the visor. Also, the extra length of the wires can all be stored in the fuse box area. It IS easy, cause I suck at eletrical projects as well but found it simple.
#12
Burning Brakes
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The hard wiring was pretty easy. Mount the V1 near the rearview mirror. The "phone cord" tucks neatly under the trim pieces. Then at the lower left corner, I tucked it in along the dash edge with a thin putty knife. You could even use a flexible kitchen knife. The wire is then routed easily to the fuse box and up to the concealed display mounted on the steering colummn.
#13
Originally posted by unbeknownst
To connect to the existing wires... the kit that comes from the factory has a "clip" that you just squeeze down onto a wire with pliers... and voila!
To connect to the existing wires... the kit that comes from the factory has a "clip" that you just squeeze down onto a wire with pliers... and voila!
#14
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All I did was buy one of those "voltage readers." Not sure of their technical term... get one at a auto store... about $5... looks kinda like a screw driver... just turn the car off and make sure there in no current to that fuse, and turn the car on, and if the light bulb lights up showing current, you can tap that wire.
#15
Originally posted by unbeknownst
All I did was buy one of those "voltage readers." Not sure of their technical term... get one at a auto store... about $5... looks kinda like a screw driver... just turn the car off and make sure there in no current to that fuse, and turn the car on, and if the light bulb lights up showing current, you can tap that wire.
All I did was buy one of those "voltage readers." Not sure of their technical term... get one at a auto store... about $5... looks kinda like a screw driver... just turn the car off and make sure there in no current to that fuse, and turn the car on, and if the light bulb lights up showing current, you can tap that wire.
#17
to hardwire it simply cut the cig lighter plug off of the cord, leaving enough cord on the plug in case you ever decide to use the plug again. Wire the positive to the ignition fuse and the ground wire to one of the 10mm bolts that hold the fuse panel in place.
#18
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You can even do it without cutting the coiled wire. Just order the straight wire from Escort ($10) and it comes with an inline fuse. I posted the following instructions on another thread.
You can connect the power cord one of two ways.
If your power cord has an inline fuse, you can just splice it into the the wires powering the cigarette lighter in the dash or the power receptacle in the console.
I did it the following way:
I found a fuse for an item that is not critical (i.e. Power socket/cigarette lighter) so that you don't risk a system like the airbags, ABS or your lights.
I pulled the fuse and used a test light to find out which side was HOT (i.e. carried the power). I stripped a little of the wire off of the detector's power cord and and wrapped it around one of the fuse prongs (key here is to only strip of a little here, otherwise you won't be able to reinsert the fuse). I then reinserted the fuse with the prong that had the wire OPPOSITE the hot receptacle in the fuse box. Since my power cord doesn't have an inline fuse, this method still provides protection in the event the detector shorts out by blowing the fuse, otherwise if the wire was connected on the HOT side and a short would occur, the wires would melt. If you have an inline fuse, it doesn't matter which side you use. I then wrapped the negative wire (stripped end of course) around a screw that went into the firewall or other metal part.
I then ran the cord up the side of the dash, the driver's side "A" pillar and along the top of the headliner/windshield to just above my rear view mirror to where the detector is mounted.
Aside from opening the fuse box, I didn't have to disassemble anything and I didn't have to run much wire.
It was really pretty easy. It looks very clean and since the detector is mounted near the tint band, it's very difficult to notice the detector from the outside and NO WIRES.
Good Luck!
BTW, I've had the 8500 since January and I love it!
You can connect the power cord one of two ways.
If your power cord has an inline fuse, you can just splice it into the the wires powering the cigarette lighter in the dash or the power receptacle in the console.
I did it the following way:
I found a fuse for an item that is not critical (i.e. Power socket/cigarette lighter) so that you don't risk a system like the airbags, ABS or your lights.
I pulled the fuse and used a test light to find out which side was HOT (i.e. carried the power). I stripped a little of the wire off of the detector's power cord and and wrapped it around one of the fuse prongs (key here is to only strip of a little here, otherwise you won't be able to reinsert the fuse). I then reinserted the fuse with the prong that had the wire OPPOSITE the hot receptacle in the fuse box. Since my power cord doesn't have an inline fuse, this method still provides protection in the event the detector shorts out by blowing the fuse, otherwise if the wire was connected on the HOT side and a short would occur, the wires would melt. If you have an inline fuse, it doesn't matter which side you use. I then wrapped the negative wire (stripped end of course) around a screw that went into the firewall or other metal part.
I then ran the cord up the side of the dash, the driver's side "A" pillar and along the top of the headliner/windshield to just above my rear view mirror to where the detector is mounted.
Aside from opening the fuse box, I didn't have to disassemble anything and I didn't have to run much wire.
It was really pretty easy. It looks very clean and since the detector is mounted near the tint band, it's very difficult to notice the detector from the outside and NO WIRES.
Good Luck!
BTW, I've had the 8500 since January and I love it!
#19
Originally posted by GoHawks63
Aside from opening the fuse box, I didn't have to disassemble anything and I didn't have to run much wire.
Aside from opening the fuse box, I didn't have to disassemble anything and I didn't have to run much wire.
#20
the best installation I have seen - this dude combined V1 radar output with his mirror. He actually etched away the reflecting material from the mirror surface in the shape of the V1 arrows and LEDs. He also put a little TV in the mirror too.
#22
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For all the people with the passport 8500, have you thought about or gotten the shift laser that links with the 8500? How is the product on a whole for anybody who has it? http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm
#23
Originally posted by melotical
For all the people with the passport 8500, have you thought about or gotten the shift laser that links with the 8500? How is the product on a whole for anybody who has it? http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm
For all the people with the passport 8500, have you thought about or gotten the shift laser that links with the 8500? How is the product on a whole for anybody who has it? http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm
Does anybody know if the police are using laser in Massachusetts? How about the rest of New England & NY?
#24
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Originally posted by melotical
For all the people with the passport 8500, have you thought about or gotten the shift laser that links with the 8500? How is the product on a whole for anybody who has it? http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm
For all the people with the passport 8500, have you thought about or gotten the shift laser that links with the 8500? How is the product on a whole for anybody who has it? http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm
#25
Originally posted by DMorgen
Does anybody know if the police are using laser in Massachusetts? How about the rest of New England & NY?
Does anybody know if the police are using laser in Massachusetts? How about the rest of New England & NY?
#27
Burning Brakes
$500 includes installation. The Shifter itself can be bought for $299 for those you want to do the install themselves. I have been thinking about purchasing the Shifter as Laser is common in and around Atlanta.
Originally posted by GoHawks63
$500 is a little steep, especially when I consider that I have never encountered laser here. I might wait until the price comes down a bit.
$500 is a little steep, especially when I consider that I have never encountered laser here. I might wait until the price comes down a bit.
#28
yeah. on the right side of the mirror he has a small LCD TV screen. All the TV guts are in the headliner, then the ribbon cable goes from under the headliner to the mirror.
You are right - it was a Lexus IS300
You are right - it was a Lexus IS300
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