o0ookay guys I'm basically new with tryin the car maintaince thing, and I owe it to all of u that got me interested enough to even try such things. . .
My question isSss. . . . What are sum possible things that can happen when u don't finish a spark plug change. . . Because I changed mine on my 02 TL-s, but was unable to get to 2 of them in the back. . Which means I have 4 new ones and 2 oldas left in the car. .

ThnxXx for any input

 

No thing will happen if you could only change out 4 of them. If the remaining 2 spark plugs are not in good condition, then you may experience some loss in performance, or a little shaking, but it wont harm anything.

 

thnk god, I really was feeling a way. . I think it's juss my self conscince thinking about it, I may juss pay to get the last 2 taking care of. . . But thnXx for the info

 

no, you can do it! it may seem like a lot but just take your time and position yourself over the engine right. Get yourself an extension for your socket. What i have luck doing is dropping in the spark plug socket first, then dropping the extension in after. you have some more clearance this way to get things in there. then attach the wrench and loosen it. take the wrench off and unscrew the rest of it by hand with the extension and you should be able to pull it out without having to take anything else apart really. putting in the new one was pretty much the same in reverse. I like to drop the plug down there Gently!, then send in the socket and extension, hand tighten it!! and then just give it alittle 1/4 turn with the wrench. not too tight. Be sure to reset the cars computer after as well. disconnecting the neg cable while doing the work is an easy way to get this done.

 

yea I think thats the problem, I do have trouble taking it out while the wrench is attach. . .
So0oo I think I might juss try the deconnecting methiod. . .
ThnxXx for the advise. .

 

it got me the first time! just look and angle your tools in there right and you should be cool. hold them tight so you dont drop them into your engine bay! sounds silly, but I had a heck of a time getting the socket out from the middle of the engine bay when i dropped it!

 

Its fine for awhile but you need to take teh time to finish the job.

 

Get a towel/blanket and lay on the motor so you can see better. It also helps if you let it sit there for a while so you don't get yourself on the headers.

 

DO NOT DROP the spark plugs into the holes!!!! Best way to destroy the carefully measure all import gap~
Use a piece of vacuum tubing- every toolbox needs a foot of this stuff
put it over the small top end of the plug- apply anti sieze lightly to the middle 3 plug threads- you do not want anti sieze getting into the engine!!
lower into hole and gently twist the vac tube to feel the threads start properly- then tighten with hose by hand- then use extensions
In the rear plugs- a 3 and 6 inch extension used together works well, and make sure to use a real spark plug socket- with rubber grip inside or magnet tip holder

 

EXACTLY!

Assemble a peice at a time at the opening until everything is hooked together. As mentioned the extensions need to be 3" plus 6". I tried a 9" alone and nearly got it stuck.

Also (as mentioned) lay on top of the engine (make sure it's cool). Reach your right hand in from the right side and around back, that'll get you around/under some of the stuff in the way.

You can do it!!

The rear passenger side is the *really* tough one. The middle one is much easier.

 

I think gen3 removes the strut tower cross bar for easier rear spark plug access
Is that true?

from my gen2 experience
rear passenger side- lean over fender from side.
should be a dent in the firewall where your hand fits nicely, once the ratchet and all are in place
With all this tool adding layers--- you can see the importance of using the hose to lower the plug and get it properly started in the threads and finger tight.
I suggest noobs do 1 front plug first, to get the feel of it while you can see what your doing- working on the back ones is pretty much by feel, then finish the fronts which are easy.

 

Don't know if it's needed in the 3rd gen. The Strut Brace is easy to remove in the 3G and would give a little more room if needed.

T, instead of a peice of Vacuum hose, I got one of the Spark Plug Sockets that has a rubber insert.

I inserted the plug top and the insert holds it very snugly. Then I inserted the the socket (with plug) and then an extension. With that, I could gently hand start the plugs and feel that they were threading in properly.

 

right- you can feel them threading your way---
what the hose does, is protect the plug a bit more from initial damage to the electrode gap.
When you lower the plug in the socket down- you cant turn it yet- right? and there is an element of dropping it in?
Then the first extension gets ~dropped in~ on top of the loose assembly , and you have to press it into the socket top, threads still not started?
There were 2 or 3 good opportunities for disaster to strike just then!!!
What I was taught, and works for me and my extra careful way:
With the vac tube on- its-- lower the plug to the threads- be able to back turn them if needed to get a good solid clean start and tighten gently- with direct feel that you lose with the tools.
At that point they will be ready another 1/4 turn and the torque wrench-- 13 ft lbs, cold

 

You can do it - just keep at it. It was a pain but I got all of mine - a few pauses and slow breathing but got even the challenging ones. Sure is nice you don't have to do it again for many miles

 

reset the computer after ???

 

No, not needed.

 

i thought so, i wonder where idea came from ... ?

 

I have never quite figured out what all the hoopla is about changing out the plugs in our engines. I found it really simple compared to the Ford Explorer I own.
Simple=get a spark plug socket that will hold the plug when installing it and removing the old ones. That and the correct extentions will get the job done in just a few minutes. My spark plug socket has a rubber/neoprene washer inside of it that holds the plugs in place when you install or remove it. I've had it for years and wouldn't even try to replace these plugs without it.

 

Thats what makes it a spark plug socket! the special gripper inside.
Any job is about using the right tools- in this case a 3 and 6 inch long extension and 3/8 drive ratchet
They make ones with a magnet to grab the top of the spark plug now-
sometimes the rubber boots are difficult to slide back off the new plugs
Use a little bit of dielectric plug wire boot grese on the rubber insert in case~

 

for a lot of ziners- this is the 1st time DIY at something like this or brakes, so the instructions are written for everyone to be able to use.

It may sound difficult- and practicing on a front plug where you can see whats going on and decide if you want to pay someone else 2 hours labor- for a job you can do in 1.5 hours your first time....