Quick question
Quick question
I have to change my leaking valve cover gasket. What parts do I need (2 valve cover gaskets and an intake gasket?) for this job, what are the torque specs on the intake and valve cover bolts, and is there anything else I should do/clean while the inake is off (engine runs great already did t/belt).
thanks,
Jason
thanks,
Jason
All you need is the valve cover gaskets and the center spark plug hole gaskets. Clean the Intake manifold and EGR ports while its off. The Intake manifold gasket can be reused. I dont have the torque specs near me.
#5 (you need 6 of them)
#5 (you need 6 of them)
Last edited by fsttyms1; Jan 13, 2010 at 10:47 AM.
After further review. I have discovered the leaking gasket is not from valve cover, but appears to be coming from front camshaft thrust plate. Is this a simple remove the 2 bolts (torque specs?) secuing thrust plate #6, change o-ring #15, or is this a disassembly?
thanks,
Jason
thanks,
Jason
If you have the valve covers off- it makes sense to adjust the valves~
most of the work is getting the covers off
They should be done at the 105 service, some, at least a few, will be off-out of range- from allowable variation spec,, and perfect makes it run better
Its much easier than it sounds to do, a `go/no go` feeler guage that tells you if its too tight or loose and you turn a screw until its right
most of the work is getting the covers off
They should be done at the 105 service, some, at least a few, will be off-out of range- from allowable variation spec,, and perfect makes it run better
Its much easier than it sounds to do, a `go/no go` feeler guage that tells you if its too tight or loose and you turn a screw until its right
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mrkatt-
cant answer your question but I think those would be the cam end seals that some replace with timing belt as a `just in case` type thing,,makes me believe you cant pop them out from outside but PM fsttyms1 with the thread link
to ck torque on a bolt before removal:
set torque wrench to right- tighten, and a good guess for how much you think the bolt is at
small bolt like intake manifold to engine block you would start at 10 (they are 16),
big bolt like lug nuts-start at 50 (actual wheel lug torque should be 80)
If it doesnt click with slight pressure- turn up a little and try again until the slightest push on wrench causes it to click- thats on torque! any more pressure will tighten the bolt- ck reading and write down
Do NOT use torque wrech as a general purpose removal tool - messes up calibration.
use the right tool for the job after determining torque
tip- keep tool set at 10 foot pounds when stored- maintaining slight spring pressure keeps accuracy
Never trust a new one- test on a few bolts to see if its correct
cant answer your question but I think those would be the cam end seals that some replace with timing belt as a `just in case` type thing,,makes me believe you cant pop them out from outside but PM fsttyms1 with the thread link
to ck torque on a bolt before removal:
set torque wrench to right- tighten, and a good guess for how much you think the bolt is at
small bolt like intake manifold to engine block you would start at 10 (they are 16),
big bolt like lug nuts-start at 50 (actual wheel lug torque should be 80)
If it doesnt click with slight pressure- turn up a little and try again until the slightest push on wrench causes it to click- thats on torque! any more pressure will tighten the bolt- ck reading and write down
Do NOT use torque wrech as a general purpose removal tool - messes up calibration.
use the right tool for the job after determining torque
tip- keep tool set at 10 foot pounds when stored- maintaining slight spring pressure keeps accuracy
Never trust a new one- test on a few bolts to see if its correct
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