MurdaZ

iTrader: (1)

so during electrical lab, guy walks in and gives the teacher an alternator, i see acura, and ask from what, he says his legened, so i ask for the calipers, and he has 2 sets, 1 on the car, used, other brand new.
question: is there any stamp or model number on the calipers that i can identify them to make sure its oem? or what can i look out for.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

our single has one hold

it looks like a C in the middle..

2 piston would have like.. an E

3 backwards

MurdaZ

iTrader: (1)

also found this info legend vs nsx calipers, so all in all, go legend.

NSX vs. Legend Calipers - Brake Swap

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Uh, us 5lug guys always wonder about the NSX and Legend caliper differences. Well i got a bit of info and figured i'd post it up with a good thread title for searches later.

Legend Calipers 42mm and 38mm piston sizes.

NSX Calipers 40mm and 34mm piston sizes.

-Legend Caliper Issues-
Stock the legend calipers are mounted on the back of the rotor instead of the front like most other honda/acura calipers. So to mount these on an accord using stock mounting holes you must swap the calipers L side on the R side and vice versa. This is only done to keep the bleeder screw on top.

This although puts the big piston before the little piston and some people believe this causes braking problems. I haven't had any and would like to hear from anyone that set this up different or has had some problems.

-NSX Caliper-
These are mounted like all other honda/acura calipers so like most dual piston calipers the small piston is in front of the larger piston. The pistons are smaller than the legends and i believe it may have a small part to do with the mid engine setup and the weight distribution of the NSX.

-Conclusions-

I believe the Legend calipers will give you more braking power. I'd like to know the rotor size on the NSX rotors as well. If you do the 5lug swap and use the Legend calipers you can use there stock 28t brackets and run there 28mm rotors which will take more heat and abuse over the 23mm ITR/Prelude rotors. I'd guess the NSX calipers use 28t brackets and 28mm as well but it'd be interesting to know.

Well anybody that has anymore info feel free to add it in. I know machine is running a pretty good setup with RX7 4piston calipers so maybe the DIY King will add some insight in.

http://www.hondasociety.com/board/sh...d.php?t=126560

MurdaZ

iTrader: (1)

im so lost lol, i know what it looks like with its 2 piston, but wanna know if theres a part number or stamp or something that can identify it to be a legend caliper, since i wont be near a computer to check mitchells.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

oh..i dunno.. lol

just grab it...

if he says its from a legend and you kno how it looks..

take it.

OntarioTL

I just searched for my post on my legend calipers years ago, but the pictures aren't linked anymore so I can't help you there for reference. All I remember is that they weren't stamped with a legend label. I believe mine were stamped with a label of nissin on top of the caliper.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

i haz that

Onese1f

Is it even worth going Legend Calipers over a BBK?

01tl4tl

for 150 dollars rebuilt pair of Legend 2 piston calipers that improves stopping enough for a normal driver,,, versus 1000+ for a BBK..we dont have enough motor to merit them

01tl4tl

get out a ruler or wrench set and see how little differance a few MM really is
Dont sweat that-
just install the left on right and right on left and enjoy without issue
Piston size is about weight transfer on the car under braking
SS brake lines make a big differance- so does just flushing the brake fluid every year

Ronmarr1

I am going to switch calipers and need the parts nos for the legend calipers that will bolt on to my 2000TL

Gonna just use Brembo blanks and ceramic (stock or Akebono) pads

Need a DYI, cross reference oarts numbers if still available.
and any gotchas that may be involved.

Thanks so very much.

Ron
ronm@ramlegal.com

FirePR2002

^^ron - do a search and you will find all your answers in MANY posts and threads.

01tl4tl

search my name and legend calipers

raybestos part # FRC10627 and FRC10628
thats with the bracket- you take the metal slider clips and new bolts fron the new bracket and throw the bracket back into the box- its cheaper to get them this way than buying seperate
Toss the big clip in the inside middle of the caliper-not needed and may cause rub

The mounting bracket doesnt fit the TL no matter how much you think it looks the same~ its 2mm diff at critical place

The Legend Caliper with big L stamped on it goes on PASSENGER side,
the caliper with R goes on driver side
Prefill the calipers with new DOT4 brake fluid as much as possible
I use a small metal squirt can
Use only brand new fluid from a foil sealed bottle, get 2 qts

Buy the dollar rubber `line plugs` to keep fluid from leaking all over the floor while brake line off as you install the new caliper-
be sure to use the new crush rings seals- one on each side of the banjo fitting of the brake line- they should come with the calipers

See my post on brake bleeding and ABS use to fully do system
Do the calipers and bleeding first-which require 2, 45mph abs stops-
and would hurt new brake parts- so dont absue the new parts!!

its install calipers, bleed, and test drive--rebleed as needed (common for air to get in abs controller) then install new rotors and pads

01tl4tl

ps have fun!!

01tl4tl

RacingBrake brand pads thru MrHeelToe are awesome
ET300 street use, ET500 more aggressive street use (think you're a racer)

While designed to withstand the very hard mettalurgy of RB rotors, they work great on any brand rotors
I have ET300s in the back brakes on Kragen chinese made rotors (they looked better made than the usa) with no abnormal wear and excellent braking after 2 years

In front its RB slotted rotors and ET300 pads with 20k miles and over 5mm pad remaining- min thickness 2mm
They are very streetable and fully wife approved for noise and stopping power in an emergency- like 80 to 20 on the freeway in the--ooops -not lookng ahead eh?
and the car comes home the same length it left the house! YEAH!!!!

Those same brakes also take care of me on the backroads~ with racer mentality and skills

TIP from ExcelDetail:
To reduce brake dust- which is simply physics at work--
wash the rims on both sides with wheel cleaner product -soap and water- rinse well
(while doing brakes is a good time) get them clean!

Then apply 2-3 coats SYNTHETIC car wax- its melt point is 100F higher than carnuba wax- which is gone at 115F- your car surface gets hotter than that!!, let alone the wheels!
3 coats synthetic- a buffing with the powerball or cone buffer or similar on a drill will get amazing shine too.

Now when the scalding red hot brake pad particles get flung off the pad they have little grip on the rim and keep going right past them
When particles stick they attract more pad dust and road dirt to the hot material
It cools down and you have glued the mess to the rims

The synthetic wax and a good cleaner spray will keep to a minimum-- wiping or gentle wash of the rims with the car washing-
you can touch up the wheel coating with QD quick detail spray
So many products to care for the TL ..I never knew until owning one and now have a shelf of special products- but it looks brand new all the time!

Dave408

iTrader: (1)

Im on stock everything when it comes to brakes.
will switching to legend calipers stop warping my rotors?

or is it just added braking power?

thanks

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

It won't stop your rotors from warping. Only improve braking power.

fsttyms1

Upgrading to quality rotors and pads are the only thing to stop that UNLESS you have a caliper now that is hanging up causing unneeded heat in a rotor.

01tl4tl

many cars didnt get the brake fluid flushed on a regular basis in their history-
and now they are 5 to 10 years old-
Some never had it done at all, and find bad calipers and master cylinder

EVERY YEAR is how often to change the fluid

Those cars without fluid changes are at greater risk of caliper failure, especially if you replace pads or rotors and dont flush the brake fluid first
wikipedia hygroscopic for details

All kinds of micro sized rust particles inside caliper get moved around as the piston is compressed...Warning Danger Will Robinson~
Now that stuff can get to the single, thin, rubber o-ring that IS the piston seal that makes the caliper work!!
You want to flush all that out and have only new clean fresh fluid coming out the bleeders before you do any inward movement to the caliper piston

Its easy to check if one caliper is dragging- partially on, or not working at all
Look at the rotors inside and out
One side shiny and the other dark? or one rotor doesnt match the color and wear of the others
Or you get home and smoke is coming from a wheel,,,those are all signs