Questions as I reach 100K
#1
Racer
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Questions as I reach 100K
All,
First, some info on my TL. I bought it from an Acura dealership about a year ago with 85,000 miles.
This week, I will be reaching the 100K mile mark on the car. First off, I love my TL and wouldn't trade it for any 2007 U.S. vehicle. This is my second Acura (traded my RSX in after I got married) and I am sold. My wife and I have our eyes on the RDX after I finish paying this off.
There are tons of threads about what to do at 100K but I have a few concerns. You all basically say to do the following:
1) Change timing belt
2) Change water pump
3) Change spark plugs
4) Change transmission fluid
5) Filters, etc.
As I said, I will be at 100,xxx+ be the end of the week. I am on the original tranny with the jet installed by the dealer at around 65,000. I do not feel any signs of the tranny slipping although part of me hopes it slips so I don't have to worry about getting stranded. I do have a company vehicle during the week and since I've had it, it's been driven about 85% of the time on the highways between 50 and 80 MPH and I don't see that changing unless I change jobs. It sees very little stop and go traffic.
Any ideas how I can go to Acura and get a new tranny with few questions? I do have an extended warranty until 139,000 or so.
What do you all think about changing the tranny fluid? Could it cause a disruption in the tranny that could cause it to fail? I've read that sometimes by moving around the sediment and particles in the tranny, you will actually do more harm than good. How much truth is there to this?
As I said, the car drives so smooth. Every time I take this out, I wonder how it has 100,000+ miles? I am afraid changing Spark Plugs, timing belt, water pump, etc. could in some way mess that up.
I read what you all have to say about your cars and you guys have some great insight and info.
What do you guys think?
First, some info on my TL. I bought it from an Acura dealership about a year ago with 85,000 miles.
This week, I will be reaching the 100K mile mark on the car. First off, I love my TL and wouldn't trade it for any 2007 U.S. vehicle. This is my second Acura (traded my RSX in after I got married) and I am sold. My wife and I have our eyes on the RDX after I finish paying this off.
There are tons of threads about what to do at 100K but I have a few concerns. You all basically say to do the following:
1) Change timing belt
2) Change water pump
3) Change spark plugs
4) Change transmission fluid
5) Filters, etc.
As I said, I will be at 100,xxx+ be the end of the week. I am on the original tranny with the jet installed by the dealer at around 65,000. I do not feel any signs of the tranny slipping although part of me hopes it slips so I don't have to worry about getting stranded. I do have a company vehicle during the week and since I've had it, it's been driven about 85% of the time on the highways between 50 and 80 MPH and I don't see that changing unless I change jobs. It sees very little stop and go traffic.
Any ideas how I can go to Acura and get a new tranny with few questions? I do have an extended warranty until 139,000 or so.
What do you all think about changing the tranny fluid? Could it cause a disruption in the tranny that could cause it to fail? I've read that sometimes by moving around the sediment and particles in the tranny, you will actually do more harm than good. How much truth is there to this?
As I said, the car drives so smooth. Every time I take this out, I wonder how it has 100,000+ miles? I am afraid changing Spark Plugs, timing belt, water pump, etc. could in some way mess that up.
I read what you all have to say about your cars and you guys have some great insight and info.
What do you guys think?
#2
Ackniculous One
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If possible, go into service dept of an Acura dealer and ask to get a printout on you Vehicle VIN history. I'd be surprised if they didn't do some of those things before putting it on the lot. I think that list is a great start, but you need to find out if any of those items have been done so you can save some money. The jet kit isn't worth anything..at least for me it wasn't, but then again, my tranny was on its way out anyway. The new trannies don't have that anymore. If you want to save some money, find an independent Acura repair shop and have them do the timing belt/water pump. You can change the fluids and filters very easily with little time. The DIY's on this site are plenty descriptive enough for you to do the minor maintenance items.
#3
If you think it runs smooth now, add Seafoam to your list and use NGK Iridium spark plugs, drop in a K&N air filter
Do that with the money saved doing some of the work at home and some at private shop- not deal$hip
It helps the trans to change its fluid, everyone should do it, and the new cars require it.
After all, it is only an oil product and you change the engine oil right?
If you experience any of the trans failure symptoms found at www.acura.com, which may occur without warning (so to know them is good) then Acura replaces the trans for free after their tech runs a set of test and codes are checked and verified etc.
While at acura.com click -ownership experience- and register your car by VIN
It has your warranty repair notices and other info there. Cars with radio/nav codes can store them there in a free account
With all new fluids and filters and the all important timing belt and tensioner plus water pump at 105, your car will run like sewing machine another 100K+ no sweat
Ok a very fast heated leather seat sewing machine!
Do that with the money saved doing some of the work at home and some at private shop- not deal$hip
It helps the trans to change its fluid, everyone should do it, and the new cars require it.
After all, it is only an oil product and you change the engine oil right?
If you experience any of the trans failure symptoms found at www.acura.com, which may occur without warning (so to know them is good) then Acura replaces the trans for free after their tech runs a set of test and codes are checked and verified etc.
While at acura.com click -ownership experience- and register your car by VIN
It has your warranty repair notices and other info there. Cars with radio/nav codes can store them there in a free account
With all new fluids and filters and the all important timing belt and tensioner plus water pump at 105, your car will run like sewing machine another 100K+ no sweat
Ok a very fast heated leather seat sewing machine!
#4
CJ
I agree that looking at parts first and getting a printout of any repairs made before sale to him is important ands may cut cost.
Some dealers may do a tune-up, but with the TL not needing anything till 100 by the book, they mostly change the engine oil because its easy for the buyer to pull the stick and be ~given the impression~ the car had been maintained
The new replacement transmission bodies have the oil jet kit inside
The early originals have the dealer kit installed outside
It is different than the clutch pack failure most experience some form of.
I agree that looking at parts first and getting a printout of any repairs made before sale to him is important ands may cut cost.
Some dealers may do a tune-up, but with the TL not needing anything till 100 by the book, they mostly change the engine oil because its easy for the buyer to pull the stick and be ~given the impression~ the car had been maintained
The new replacement transmission bodies have the oil jet kit inside
The early originals have the dealer kit installed outside
It is different than the clutch pack failure most experience some form of.
#5
tftimm
If you want to really test the clutch packs, (I did and got my new trans!) find a VERY hilly area you can drive 25 mph on, especilly UPhill with rpm up a little-manual hold in 2nd and 3rd gear, pulling from behind the torque curve, if there is weakness- hard loading will show it. You will feel a liitle slip like a regular clutch does as it dies.
Good luck!
If you want to really test the clutch packs, (I did and got my new trans!) find a VERY hilly area you can drive 25 mph on, especilly UPhill with rpm up a little-manual hold in 2nd and 3rd gear, pulling from behind the torque curve, if there is weakness- hard loading will show it. You will feel a liitle slip like a regular clutch does as it dies.
Good luck!
#6
Racer
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01tl4tl, I will try your recommendation. I have gone up hills around 25mph at a low RPM, 1300 or so, and I haven't noticed anything.
If I take it in to Acura and complain that it's slipping when I go up hills, or whatever the common problem is, what will they do? After removing the transmission, is there a something inside that they will spot and say, yea it's about to fail, or, everythings fine? I don't want to complain only for them to tell me they have proof that I am lying.
Any thoughts?
If I take it in to Acura and complain that it's slipping when I go up hills, or whatever the common problem is, what will they do? After removing the transmission, is there a something inside that they will spot and say, yea it's about to fail, or, everythings fine? I don't want to complain only for them to tell me they have proof that I am lying.
Any thoughts?
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
tftimm
If you want to really test the clutch packs, (I did and got my new trans!) find a VERY hilly area you can drive 25 mph on, especilly UPhill with rpm up a little-manual hold in 2nd and 3rd gear, pulling from behind the torque curve, if there is weakness- hard loading will show it. You will feel a liitle slip like a regular clutch does as it dies.
Good luck!
If you want to really test the clutch packs, (I did and got my new trans!) find a VERY hilly area you can drive 25 mph on, especilly UPhill with rpm up a little-manual hold in 2nd and 3rd gear, pulling from behind the torque curve, if there is weakness- hard loading will show it. You will feel a liitle slip like a regular clutch does as it dies.
Good luck!
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#8
Racer
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Will the computer notify me of any slip, or must it have a severe slip in order for the warning lights to appear on the dash.
From what I have read, once the dash lights turn on, it's too late, you could get stranded any minute.
From what I have read, once the dash lights turn on, it's too late, you could get stranded any minute.
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Originally Posted by tftimm
Will the computer notify me of any slip, or must it have a severe slip in order for the warning lights to appear on the dash.
From what I have read, once the dash lights turn on, it's too late, you could get stranded any minute.
From what I have read, once the dash lights turn on, it's too late, you could get stranded any minute.
In that transmission the permissible range TCC of slip is -5 to 80 RPM within test parameters. Why -5? That's probably an oops factor for when the sensor fails to pick up it's signal (you will see negatives on the test equipment). In any event, more than 80 RPM of slip and you set a code.
As you can see, there can be a consistent slip with no set code, but when it exceeds your computers pre-programmed limit it will set a code. With no codes, the best way to detect slip is by checking the fluid and contents of the pan. Acura/Hondas have no pans, so you're really limited to checking the fluid. It you smell the fluid and it smells burnt, you are probably experiencing some slip. Fluid color has very little to do with it.
You want:
Driveability = good
Fluid = good
No codes (pending or current) = good
Pan contents (if applicable) = good (takes some training to evaluate)
There's not much more you can do without pulling the tranny out and checking it.
#10
Racer
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I wish I could have them take it out and check it for free, but it's not that easy. I will check the tranny fluid. So your saying if it smells burnt it is probably slipping? Should I take it in without changing the fluid to prove that it is burnt and therefore slipping, or should I change it and show that I am pro-active.
Thanks for the information on how the computer reads the codes. Are there others that have gone 100,000+ with only the jet install?
Thanks for the information on how the computer reads the codes. Are there others that have gone 100,000+ with only the jet install?
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If you suspect a problem and you're under warranty, then definitely don't change the fluid. Give them all of the information they need to make a good diagnosis. If they make a diagnosis that you don't agree with, get a second opinion.
We can't stand it when people try to "rig" the results of our diagnosis. People frequently think that changing fluid will cure their transmission problems. This - in some cases - might help in the short run, but won't help in the long run (and can definitely damage the transmission more than it was originally).
Sorry - nobody can check it for free beyond that sort of initial inspection. Hopefully - if you actually have a problem and are under warranty - they will treat you honestly and do the right thing.
Good luck.
We can't stand it when people try to "rig" the results of our diagnosis. People frequently think that changing fluid will cure their transmission problems. This - in some cases - might help in the short run, but won't help in the long run (and can definitely damage the transmission more than it was originally).
Sorry - nobody can check it for free beyond that sort of initial inspection. Hopefully - if you actually have a problem and are under warranty - they will treat you honestly and do the right thing.
Good luck.
#12
Racer
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Thanks guys. I'll take it by and explain what I feel and just be honest with them. My experience is the same as many other on this board. I'll go in and be a honest and respectful. The ones that go in and "raise hell", never seem to get what they want while the once that seem to treat the Acura folks with honesty and respect seem to get treated a little better.
I'll keep you all up to date because I would sure like the confidence of a new Tranny before I reach 109,000 without getting stranded somewhere. I love my Acura and I don't want it to let me down.
I'll keep you all up to date because I would sure like the confidence of a new Tranny before I reach 109,000 without getting stranded somewhere. I love my Acura and I don't want it to let me down.
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