sbuswell

I'm replacing my rear mount with a 60a poly filled mount (front and side are in). I've got the rear mount bolts out and I've jacked up the engine from the tranny as far as my floor jack will take it and even have used 6 blocks of wood and its still just a little too low to let the mount slide out. Am I missing something or should use more blocks to get it up higher. I am a little hesitant to use more blocks of wood as it just doesn't seem right. I really don't want to remove the bracket as it's got 4 bolts holding it in and doesn't look like much fun to get to those.

FirePR2002

never done the job, but maybe loosen the bracket you referenced?

phee

iTrader: (5)

Braket has to go

gold2003tl (90)

yep, its a big fat pain in the arse, you have to remove the bracket. Replacing the rear motor mount was probably one of the most frustrating and difficult to reach jobs iv ever done one our cars. In terms of skill its easy, but just horrible to reach. I recommend removing the strut tower brace, and even remove the rear coil packs to save your forearms. Also find a comfortable pad to put ontop of the engine, you will be lying on it for a while. good luck.

sbuswell

I got the new rear poly filled mount in on Sunday and took my car for a drive. It vibrates like a friggin full-on race car. Way too much vibration. It's not so bad when your up to speed (40mph+) or accelerating but at a stop its just too much. I also have a poly filled front and side mount in plus Ingalls ETD. I just swapped the front mount to see if the stock front would helpo any and it did very little, but did help some. I'm going to swap the rear back to stock again (looking forward to that). I'll put the poly filled front back in as the vibrations with that mount were minimal and easily tolerable.

I did take out the strut brace, but didn't need to remove the coils. I beat the shit out of my hands and forearms though. I recently did a head swap on a V6 ford ranger that was easier than doing this. What a pain in the ass!!!!

gold2003tl (90)

i feel for you, its no fun changing that out. The vibrations from the rear mount also go right into the steering wheel, especially at a stop holding the brake in d5. Cant imagine what a solid rear mount feels like vibration wise, just comparing it to a compressed oem mount i had. I think solid front and side mounts would do the trick, also adjust the ingalls stiffy etd to a really stiff setting and extend the length of it to add more preload. I have my etd set on a pretty stiff setting and heavy preload, engine barely moves now has almost completely stopped motor mount flex, minimal vibrations too.

sbuswell

not looking forward to it consuming my weekend or I'll drive my gas hog truck to work and work on my car this week. Either way it sucks. The stock rear and poly front and sides are the way I'm going to go. One thing I'll say is with all three mounts in it takes off awesome and pulls real hard. Shifts are quicker and cornered better. I wish there were no vibrations or minimal like with just the front mount. Maybe Exelecrates new mounts will pan out, but until they are tested more thoroughly I'll just play around what I already have and see what works best.

gold2003tl (90)

Yeah, i took a look at excelerate's new poly mounts and they look pretty nice and promising. see how long my mounts hold up with the stiffy etd, so far so good. Dont kill yourself trying to change out that mount, take your time, it took me a week to stop cussing over changing that rear mount out .....still cussing over it.

sbuswell

Well I swapped the rear mount back to stock this time took me less than half the time to replace it. Got it down pat I believe. Anyways now I have a 60a poly filled front and side, stock rear and ETD. That will have to do. I'm sick of changing mounts for a while. Next is Moog radius rod bushings this weekend and Moog inner and outer tie rods. Should go a lot easier than changing that damn rear mount.

3honda

So, if you had to describe the DIY for the rear mount, what's the sequence that works best ? thanks.

sbuswell

Take off the strut bar or at least disconnect it from the chassis so you can move it out of the way. Get a 1/2" drive ratchet and some long extensions and a swiveling knuckle because the passenger side rear bolt at the bottom of the mount is a PITA to get to and you need a knuckle to get to it. Loosen the bolt on the top of the mount then loosen the 4 bottom bolts of the mount. Next you'll want to loosen the tranny mount nuts. Loosening the bottom two nuts of each mount wil work. You'll then need to brace the engine with a sturdy piece of wood on top of your jack and place it under the rear of the tranny bell housing. Just brac eit for now (raising the engine from the rear just a little) as you don't need to jack it up yet.
Next you need to remove the engine mounting bracket. There are 4 bolts. 1 hold an electrical plug and the 2nd is under the valve cover. Those 2 you need to get from the engine bay. The 3rd and 4th you'll need to get from underneath. You'll see them plain as day. I recommend getting a ratcheting wrench as you won't have room for a ratchet and socket. It's not hard but a PITA to get the bolt higher up from the bottom, the lower one is really easy. Once you've taken these 4 bolts out the bracket will be loose. Now it's time to jack up the engine more. You'll need a good 1 1/2 - 2 inches to be able to manuver the bracket from the engine mount stud. Once you've down that, push the bracket to the passengers side and hug the engine block as best you can as the getting the mount out is a tight squeeze. Be patient as you will be able to get it out even if you think its impossible. Jack the engine up a little more if you need to paying attention to the tranny mounts to make sure the bushings aren't getting pulled on too much. Also be careful of the brake lines right behind the rear mount. Don't be pulling on those too hard, but you can push on them a little (lightly). Remove the vacuum line going to the bottom of the old mount (needlenose worked fine). Once you've got the rear mount out wiggle the new mount in and you'll be 3/4 done. Finger tighten (or with an extension and socket) the four bottom mount bolts in after placing the bracket on top of the stud. Next put the bracket mounting bolts back in (all the way is fine). Then tighten the 4 bottom bolts and lastly the top bolt. Reinstall the strut bar and you are done.

gold2003tl (90)

^ yep, brings back memories of changing that out. good write up sbuswell.

3honda

Thanks a bunch. This will help a lot. My plan was - just get in there and figure it out....

stavebomb

That's the best way to go about this. I read some DIYs on this crap and ultimately just threw them aside and figured it out. I did the transmission mounts the same way.