"professional" scratch removal

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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 03:33 AM
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"professional" scratch removal

before everything i'd like to thank shyne for the details and instructions. he's been very helpful and let me say the result is awesome!!!

ok here's the deal. if you have scratches on your car, even if it's relatively deep, you should be able to remove big part of it. for those who have seen my car you would know that i got some DEEP scratches all the way to the metal by the stupid mud guards. i tried to touch it up but you know it hardly looks the same again. uneven reflection, etc etc....

after talking to shyne and the guy at the pro auto paint shop here's what you need to do. first go to your yellow pages for the local professional paint supply shop for automobile and get these: 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (optional, for better results), 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound Liquid, and the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. On top of that, you need water, couple of clean dry cloth, touchup paints, lots of patience and time. The two 3M products should be around 1x bucks each.

I'd use my example to illustrate. Remember I got a scratch all the way to metal? I touched it up, but it's not perfectly smooth or as reflective. So I washed the car, and then keep that part wet. Then I also wet the sand paper (it works best in wet). Started with the 1500 grit one first and sand over the scratch. Remember, go in ONLY one direction (ie, back and forth). Don't do it in all direction as it would be hard to clear up later.

Sand it LIGHTLY until you feel that it's smooth. Then go to 2000 grit and continue to fine sand it. Now wash the part again and dry it completely. You will see that the part looks very dull and seems like you have totally fvcked it up. Don't worry, as long as you feel it's smooth using your finger tip it's good.

Now use a clean cloth and apply the 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound Liquid. You should apply quite a lot of them (don't be cheesy on this one). Use the cloth and rub over the whole area, back and forth, and also in circles. You will notice that it is actually some rough compound. Don't worry, they are there to remove the scratches by the sand paper. This compound will dry pretty soon. Initially you should apply medium pressure but as it drys reduce the pressure.

When it's totally dry, you will notice that the dull looking scratches by the sand paper are all gone. What's left is a whole bunch of swirl marks. This is where the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze comes in, which removes the swirl marks. Use another cloth and apply it. Rub it over the area and use pressure to polish it. Then use a dry cloth to clean up the area.

Congratulations, you hvae just removed the scratch!!! Even if it's down to the metal!!! At least that's the case on my car. You now just need to wax the part and you are done. Well ok, it's not totally gone, you can still see SOME marks, but at least it's 100 times better than before.

For a mere 30 bucks in my case and I was able to remove the marks I can't say more. And BTW, it took me only 30 mins!!! From what I heard those professional body shops? They also use the same products, only they have mechanical buffers to do the job. So if you want to remove everything cleanly, invest another 50 bucks on the buffer

Hope this helps guys.
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 03:56 AM
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From: Berkeley, CA
This is great news and all, but for me persoanlly, my ABP + sandpaper = I know I'll screw it up somehow. At least I wont be worrying about it for a while. Cuz if I had my car right now I know my ass would be crazy enough to wake up tomorrow morning just to try.
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 12:05 PM
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Great article ! I'll make sure to archive this one
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 02:57 PM
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when do you apply the touchup paint?
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 04:10 PM
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Originally posted by fahoumh
when do you apply the touchup paint?
ah sorry, forgot to mention this :p after you clean your car, put the touchup paint on and let it dry for 3 hrs or so. it's ok if you put a bit more than what you should have coz' you will sand it off anyway. but of course i am not saying put excessive amount on it, just a bit thicker is ok.

and well, since my two front side fenders were seriously damaged by the mud guards, i had been thinking about repainting both fenders for some while already. so i figured it's worth a "try". anyway, now the results is sooo good that i can save up couple hundred bucks repainting the whole thinng
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 04:27 PM
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Just an FYI, if you're planning to use Zaino, Blackfire, or any other synthetic, be careful with the Imperial Hand Glaze. It has a lot of oils and Zaino, BF, and other synthetics will not bond to it.
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Old Mar 17, 2002 | 07:04 PM
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Can you post some pictures of the end result?? I have the same problem on the right rear bumper!! Hope to see the result and I can start working on it!!! Thanks!
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 02:34 AM
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Originally posted by NSXNEXT
Just an FYI, if you're planning to use Zaino, Blackfire, or any other synthetic, be careful with the Imperial Hand Glaze. It has a lot of oils and Zaino, BF, and other synthetics will not bond to it.
thanks for the info i will make sure i use some dawn later on my car
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 02:35 AM
  #9  
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Originally posted by wchan01
Can you post some pictures of the end result?? I have the same problem on the right rear bumper!! Hope to see the result and I can start working on it!!! Thanks!
i don't have pics now but i will try to take some this week. for the before work pic, look at daverman's car in another thread about mud guards and that's exactly what i got.
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 02:42 AM
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Originally posted by NSXNEXT
Just an FYI, if you're planning to use Zaino, Blackfire, or any other synthetic, be careful with the Imperial Hand Glaze. It has a lot of oils and Zaino, BF, and other synthetics will not bond to it.
Ok, I'm listening... What can be used instead of the Imperial Hand Glaze that's still "Zaino-friendly?"

Or are you recommending that we use the Z-5 Swirl Remover at this point?

V.
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 04:23 AM
  #11  
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Originally posted by vperkins2
Ok, I'm listening... What can be used instead of the Imperial Hand Glaze that's still "Zaino-friendly?"

Or are you recommending that we use the Z-5 Swirl Remover at this point?

V.
well i think it's still a good idea to use the hand glaze to remove the swirl marks. once it's done, use dawn or so to clean the area again, apply z1, then z5, z2.... etc etc... that should do it?
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 05:45 AM
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Great article. I've got some scrathces that I would love to try this on, but am a bit reluctant to try because they are in prominent areas. Also, I've got some pits in the hood from rocks...does the same procedure work there as well? Thanks.
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 08:26 PM
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Originally posted by rominl


well i think it's still a good idea to use the hand glaze to remove the swirl marks. once it's done, use dawn or so to clean the area again, apply z1, then z5, z2.... etc etc... that should do it?
That sounds good to me! Hey, I tried to track down those 3M products and the sand paper but couldn't find them! Can you give me some store names that I can try? Remember I'm in the Sacto area.

Thanks,

Vincent
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 09:56 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by johnnyb_s
Great article. I've got some scrathces that I would love to try this on, but am a bit reluctant to try because they are in prominent areas. Also, I've got some pits in the hood from rocks...does the same procedure work there as well? Thanks.
yeah the procedure would be the same. BUT, i would highly recommend you to try it on some places that are not as noticeable. i mean, it's not VERY hard, but still practices always help. you wanna make sure you master the technique before touching your hood
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Old Mar 18, 2002 | 09:59 PM
  #15  
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Originally posted by vperkins2
That sounds good to me! Hey, I tried to track down those 3M products and the sand paper but couldn't find them! Can you give me some store names that I can try? Remember I'm in the Sacto area.

Thanks,

Vincent
well the store i went to is right here in san jose so i guess it's a bit too far for you what i did was to lookup my yellow page, go to automobile, and under equipment and supply. i found two shops around me and one of them sells the stuff i got. those are the places you most likely get a reasonable price. if you are running out of options you might also try some body shops that you know are good on painting, but they have rip you off a bit
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Old Mar 19, 2002 | 09:11 PM
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Originally posted by rominl

Well the store i went to is right here in san jose so i guess it's a bit too far for you what i did was to lookup my yellow page, go to automobile, and under equipment and supply. i found two shops around me and one of them sells the stuff i got. those are the places you most likely get a reasonable price. if you are running out of options you might also try some body shops that you know are good on painting, but they have rip you off a bit
Thanks for the info. Talked to some guys at work and found an automotive paint supply store about 3 minutes from my office. Went there and picked everything up! Dang, that sh*t comes in some big quantities... I just have a couple little, tiny scratches I'm trying to remove!

Anyway, now all I need is some free time and I'll get started! Thanks for the great "How To."

Vincent
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 01:12 AM
  #17  
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Originally posted by vperkins2
Thanks for the info. Talked to some guys at work and found an automotive paint supply store about 3 minutes from my office. Went there and picked everything up! Dang, that sh*t comes in some big quantities... I just have a couple little, tiny scratches I'm trying to remove!

Anyway, now all I need is some free time and I'll get started! Thanks for the great "How To."

Vincent

no problem vincent. black and white cars are so hard to maintain, you get a tiny scratch and everyone sees it just make sure you have time and start it with the more unnoticeable place. and yeah those stuff comes in HUGE sizes... a quart!!!!!????? damn
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 02:58 PM
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Thanks for the tips...
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 06:44 PM
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Why use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze ???? It dosn't remove swirl marks that well !!!!! On the Rubbing Compound bottle it says "Use 3M Swirl Mark Remover to achieve better results"
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 09:39 PM
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I've got a bottle of the 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound Liquid in my basement that's about 7 years old. Still full and good if some one wants to give me $10+shipping for it.
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 11:28 PM
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sorry i am lil slow so let me repeat what you wrote so i dont eff up .

1) Wash Car
2) Touch up Scratches w/Paint
3) 3 hours drying time then sand them down
3) Use compound and clean the scratches up
4) Use Hand Glaze
5) Enjoy a scratch free panel

Does that sound right and in correct order ? BTW Awesome post thanks a lot
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Old Aug 23, 2003 | 10:00 AM
  #22  
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you got it all right.... the 3M Compound does magic..... but don't use the Hand Glaze....its doesnt remove the swirl marks very well,....
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Old Aug 23, 2003 | 10:27 AM
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im not a fan of the 3m products. me i prefer meguiers. they leave a longer shine and protect longer after all the buffing. that and they dont leave alot of oils like the 3m products do. you can fint the professional grade compounds like the 3m products at most automotive paint stores also

here are a couple lil videos to show you how
http://www.meguiars.com/clinics/clinics_template.cfm
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Old Aug 23, 2003 | 07:32 PM
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lets see some before/after pics, have yet to see them
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