Plotter-cut vs. hand-cut tint
Plotter-cut vs. hand-cut tint
Well...I went to get my TL-S tinted, deciding to get the vinyl to cover the dot matrix on the upper portion of the rear window. Normally, the film is cut using a plotter that is fed information from a program which contains the window dimensions of just about every common car; however, since the program will only cut the entire window (it doesn't know anything about the dimensions of the dot matrix area), the film for the rear had to be hand cut. So, the film was placed on the glass, then cut to the proper pre-vinyl dimensions. Unfortunately, the person doing the cutting didn't know that the blade tip had flattened out (no fault of said person--it's one of those blades where you snip off the end when it gets dull), so although the blade did cut the film, it also cut into the glass (two separate cuts, about 3 inches in length each). So...I now need a new rear window...
No big deal; I just feel a bit bad for my bro because all of this comes out of his pocket--the wasted tint film and time spent on this, and the cost of a new rear window.
This is not a knock on my bro's shop--the blade incident could have happened to any tinter, as it was a defective blade. I wouldn't hold it against anyone if it happened to any other tint shop...
No big deal; I just feel a bit bad for my bro because all of this comes out of his pocket--the wasted tint film and time spent on this, and the cost of a new rear window.
This is not a knock on my bro's shop--the blade incident could have happened to any tinter, as it was a defective blade. I wouldn't hold it against anyone if it happened to any other tint shop...
You sure want that piece cut out? I saw a TL with that part cut out and it looked BUTT ugly. One suggestion, if you do plan on cutting that part out, make sure the tint isnt too dark so the contrast wouldnt be too noticable.
that sucks man! I actually chose not to tint the dot matrix area, but I'm happy with it. At 35% all the way around, you can't tell on the rear window unless you're right up on it. Which very well may not appeal to some people, but I didn't want to take any chances messing w/ the NAV or radio reception.
BTW, that's so crazy to hear about the plitting. All of my tint jobs have always been hand cut by my friend who owns a tint business. I've never even seen a plotter for that stuff - that's cool.
good luck
BTW, that's so crazy to hear about the plitting. All of my tint jobs have always been hand cut by my friend who owns a tint business. I've never even seen a plotter for that stuff - that's cool.
good luck
Originally posted by edgalang
You sure want that piece cut out? I saw a TL with that part cut out and it looked BUTT ugly. One suggestion, if you do plan on cutting that part out, make sure the tint isnt too dark so the contrast wouldnt be too noticable.
You sure want that piece cut out? I saw a TL with that part cut out and it looked BUTT ugly. One suggestion, if you do plan on cutting that part out, make sure the tint isnt too dark so the contrast wouldnt be too noticable.
I wouldn't even think of cutting that part out and leaving it uncovered
Tony
Originally posted by thebeaud
BTW, that's so crazy to hear about the plitting. All of my tint jobs have always been hand cut by my friend who owns a tint business. I've never even seen a plotter for that stuff - that's cool.
good luck
BTW, that's so crazy to hear about the plitting. All of my tint jobs have always been hand cut by my friend who owns a tint business. I've never even seen a plotter for that stuff - that's cool.
good luck
OTOH the plotter/software combo does require a decent investment; the software itself isn't something that you can buy at your neighborhood CompUSA, plus you'd still need the vehicle database for the tint dimensions.
Tony
Originally posted by tdoh
The part that gets cut out (upper dot matrix area) will get replaced with the black vinyl. Unfortunately I have to go this route since the tint would not completely adhere to the entire dot matrix area.
I wouldn't even think of cutting that part out and leaving it uncovered
Tony
The part that gets cut out (upper dot matrix area) will get replaced with the black vinyl. Unfortunately I have to go this route since the tint would not completely adhere to the entire dot matrix area.
I wouldn't even think of cutting that part out and leaving it uncovered
Tony
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Originally posted by ArN 2000 TL
I have mine all the way to the top and it looks perfect. I will try and find pics. It is 3M metallic 20%. I had the shop go all the way to the top and even over the brake light (because i have a spolier). From the inside you can see the top looks a little funny if you really look at it, but from the outside it adhered great!
I have mine all the way to the top and it looks perfect. I will try and find pics. It is 3M metallic 20%. I had the shop go all the way to the top and even over the brake light (because i have a spolier). From the inside you can see the top looks a little funny if you really look at it, but from the outside it adhered great!
I haven't seen the rear window of a 2000 TL up close, so I don't know how raised the dot matrix surface is; on some windows the dot matrix can be raised a good bit, thereby making it extremely difficult for tint to adhere smoothly to the dot matrix surface.
Tony
Er......look at my sig. I have metallic tint all around except the moonroof and windshield. If the NAV did loose some signal strength, then I guess it wasnt enough for it to stop working all together. I have the entire windows covered....including the dot matrix area and the brake lights.
The navi works on a combination of gyros and GPS signal; the GPS is used to locate your initial location (e.g., when you first turn the navi on) and for positional corrections (besides obtaining data like lat/long and time) every so often while your vehicle is in motion, in combination with the gyro, which records variance in vehicle positioning, e.g., when you turn or veer off from a straight line. I think some other people on this board can better explain how the Acura navi works but I think that this is the basic premise of how it does work...
Tony
Tony
Old thread revisited...
How much will that plotter run you?
Also, I was thinking it would be cool if there were a stylus type product that you could run around the perimeter of each window, with the info then fed back to the system which determines window dimensions and can cut the film for you.
How much will that plotter run you?
Also, I was thinking it would be cool if there were a stylus type product that you could run around the perimeter of each window, with the info then fed back to the system which determines window dimensions and can cut the film for you.
The guy I use that's been tinting my cars since 1983 handcuts all of his stuff. He heats the tint on the outside of the car to take on the compound curves of the glass and then installs on the inside. Tint only goes up to the dot matrix area. Dot matrix area is blacked out. I like the way it came out.
if you go to a reputable shop...they can do the dot matrix rather well, not perfect but to the point that most people would be satisfy, my shop sanded it down and heated it up and cured it as much as he could so it looked even....
Cruisin'
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 22
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Originally posted by Allout
The guy I use that's been tinting my cars since 1983 handcuts all of his stuff. He heats the tint on the outside of the car to take on the compound curves of the glass and then installs on the inside. Tint only goes up to the dot matrix area. Dot matrix area is blacked out. I like the way it came out.
The guy I use that's been tinting my cars since 1983 handcuts all of his stuff. He heats the tint on the outside of the car to take on the compound curves of the glass and then installs on the inside. Tint only goes up to the dot matrix area. Dot matrix area is blacked out. I like the way it came out.
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