when i drive the check engine come on and the VSA N the TCS come one and when get on the hight n try to step on it the car rmp niddle pounce at 3500 rpm. and when at the light the car want stall and idle really low. can anyone help me?

i noted sone people had the P1739 and P1740 they change the 3rd and 4th clutch pressure sensor...

Cleaning the pressure switches is no big deal.
You can do both in about an hour. This includes jacking the car and removing the wheel.

The P1259 . . . there is much written online about this. Been to a JiffyLube recently?

nope?

go to a parts store and ask for a code reading--its free!!!!!
report those back here

codes are clues, not diagnosis in themself, but will point us to or away from a problem

No one has added or changed the atf recently?

off the top: it sounds like clutch packs are worn out AND the torque convertor is full of the loose friction material,,,but thats just a guess based on info given so far

Did you get those codes from your car or are those codes you saw others had with similar symptoms? If you havent gotten the codes read yet do so. Most parts stores (if not in cali) will read them for free.

Yea i when to the auto store and they hook the scan tool to my car and those code come on. NO ATF are added or drain i change the car oil (royal purple 10-30)

how old is your atf? 1 year 2 years,, you have no idea?

at this point its worth starting with a cleaning of the selenoids and a single 3.some qts drain and refill on the fluid- use the new honda dw1 atf

see what the old fluid looks like, brown black pink red,,smells like burnt sugar?
refill exactly on amount!!

I second the motion.

Do a three-quart ATF drain, clean the drain plug magnet, and fill.
If it is nasty, do at least a second after a short drive.

Pull the front left wheel after properly supporting your car, lower the wheel well valance,
unplug the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, spray out with brake cleaner, and reinstall.

Reset the CEL with a R/R of the clock fuse, and you may be good to go. on the P1739/P1740

Cost - $30 to $60
Time - 2.5 hours, tops.

On the other code, there is still a bit of reading I'm running through,
but it looks like there is another sensor that requires your attention.

Here is some C/P from wildcat71 of this forum, found thru a google search . . .

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/error-code-p1259-639820/

1. Locate the Variable Timing/Lift Control (VTEC) pressure switch, on the back of the cylinder block, by the oil filter.

2. The VTEC oil switch is normally closed, and grounds the reference voltage from the Engine Control Module (ECM) on the Blue/Black (BLU/BLK) wire.

3. At approximately 4000 RPM, and when driving the vehicle, the VTEC system should turn on. To turn on the system, the ECM energizes the VTEC Solenoid valve and it allows oil pressure into the intake valve rocker arms, the oil pressure opens the VTEC oil pressure switch so the ECM can verify that the VTEC did turn on correctly.

4. The code will set below 4000 RPM if the reference voltage is not grounded. The code will set above 4000 RPM if the VTEC oil switch does not open.

5. If the code sets at 4000 RPM or higher, the problem can be a low oil level or pressure or a malfunction in the VTEC assembly.

ok so find out the 3rd clutch switch sensor hardness and the v-tec selonoi hardness is broken that why the check engine light is on.... and i when to the honda dealer to by some AFT fluit they give ME honda ATF fluit with the WD-1 instead the Z-1 like i use to get.. so what is the difference?