This post is based off of: http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91687

Here are some pictures of LED's installed on my TL. I think they're plenty bright enough!

 

wow you did it already! it looks nice. seems to be quite a bit brighter than stock. mmm how about some night/evening shots?

 

done already! the only problem: the dash "tail light" illuminates indicating a problem... the only way to solve it is purchase the load coils to trick the car into thinking there's something on the other end... $6.99 each x 4.

I moved the LED's to my wife's highlander--very, very nice! So, they'll stay there until I figure out what to do about the load issue. But, for all intensive purposes the "poor" quality during the day is a moot point.

JS

 

so it provides the "instant on look" of LEDs. that's awesome. you're saying it's not that bright in the daytime?....not dim enough to cause a rear end collision or anything right? it doesn't seem that bad in the pics....congrats...and good luck with the load coils, i was fearing that indicator problem, if i unplug the bulbs out of my 3rd brake light now that i have my spoiler. -shawn

 

To fix the load problem, take the stock bulb and see what power it originally draws. Then solve:

since:
Power (in watts) = Current (in amps) * Voltage (in volts)
Voltage = Current * Resistance (in ohms)

hence:
Power = (Voltage)^2 / Resistance.
Resistance = (Voltage)^2 / Power

Each bulb has the + and - wires so when you connect the resistor in parallel, the voltage is 12 volts. Solve the last equation for resistance in ohms and go to Fry's/Radio Shack for the resistor. Note the power of the bulbs too because the resistors are rated to carry so much power in watts. Each bulb will probably need a resistor across its wires since each resistor mimics each bulb. Also the resistors get hot so keep em away from wires - I wire tied mine to the ledge above the taillights.

For example, for the turn signals, the 1156s are 21 watts across 12 volts. So the resistor needed is (12 volts)^2 / (21 watts) = 6.85 ohms rated at 21 watts. Since they don't have that exact size, I got 6.8 ohms rated at 25 watts. (This is what autolumination sells as load equalizers for $6.99. You can kinda see if you zoom in on his pictures.)

 

They look nice. Did you get red LEDs? Good job!

Now you need to clear the third brake light and put LEDs in those! Either that or a clear brake on the spoiler.

 

it looks alright, but the hot spot effect is pretty bad

 

These are red LED's. I checked into using white (which costs more) just in case the output was higher, however the output was the same.

I'll check into the resistors at radioshack and see what they cost.

 

I'm looking on radioshack's web page--they're much cheaper than $6.99 each; however, I'm not sure which to purchase. I don't see anything at 6.85 ohms at 25 watts...

http://www.radioshack.com/category.a...ord)&hp=search

Thanks!

 

I guess try Fry's. I always get mine from there, and they're about 99 cents each.

If not, you can try these from Radio Shack, which are 8 ohms rated at 20W. P = (12 volts)^2 / (8 ohms) = 18 watts. Just be aware that since the stock bulbs 21 watts and the resistors only burn 18 watts, the turn signal circuit will blink "slightly faster" although it's not noticable.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=271%2D120

To install them, get some wire taps from Home Depot or Autozone. Connect one end of the resistor into the + and the other into the - for stock socket. The resistor doesn't care which one is in + and -. Also be sure to insulate the resistor wires from the body! (sorry for the late reply, school started - ugh)

 

Thanks T0ast! I'm in school too trying to finish a Ph.D! Driving me batty too!

Can I also use these for the brake lights?