P0400 EGR Problem
02-28-2011, 01:44 PM
#41
did you also make sure to hold the throttle wide open too? (and crank each one like 4-5 times?)
but not as many cycles
, so they probably would go up then...
and considering the mileage; that is actually pretty good compression, so i would not be too worry about that
as you say it smells like oil, i wounder if your valve guide seal are shot (but normally they all go out roughly evenly though; unless defective)
lol (just throwing out possibilities)
but as others have said swap plugs around, and then doable check them
also yeah a battery charger does help during compression checks
but not as many cycles
, so they probably would go up then...and considering the mileage; that is actually pretty good compression, so i would not be too worry about that
as you say it smells like oil, i wounder if your valve guide seal are shot (but normally they all go out roughly evenly though; unless defective)
lol (just throwing out possibilities)but as others have said swap plugs around, and then doable check them
also yeah a battery charger does help during compression checks
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-28-2011 at 01:47 PM.
02-28-2011, 04:29 PM
#43
need to test cold compression,
throttle wide open to allow normal air intake
battery charged and on charger if needed
watch guage for gradual increase or immediate rise and stays high
that does look good, but need standard testing results,,within 10% of each other is considered normal
throttle wide open to allow normal air intake
battery charged and on charger if needed
watch guage for gradual increase or immediate rise and stays high
that does look good, but need standard testing results,,within 10% of each other is considered normal
02-28-2011, 04:32 PM
#44
Testing Gurus:
where is a good fuse to remove during this -to disable actual coil ignition?
on wet test- do after dry, add a small amount of engine oil- just enough to allow it to add a ring on top of the piston rings, and fill scratches in cyl wall as you crank it a few times to spread- but not so much as to coat the piston top!
then insert comp guage and proceed as normal= throttle open,,5 cranks, watching guage very closely on this one
where is a good fuse to remove during this -to disable actual coil ignition?
on wet test- do after dry, add a small amount of engine oil- just enough to allow it to add a ring on top of the piston rings, and fill scratches in cyl wall as you crank it a few times to spread- but not so much as to coat the piston top!
then insert comp guage and proceed as normal= throttle open,,5 cranks, watching guage very closely on this one
02-28-2011, 05:23 PM
#45
Always Working In
Thread Starter
01tl4tl...the fuses are on the drivers side. Labeled ignition coil and fuel pump. Got it from a vid on the cl side.
Did another hot test when I got home. Pressure held. 160 dry 194 wet
Tested that problem cylinder.
Im gonna go ahead and break down and do the valve job this weekend.
Time to look around and see what I need to get.
Did another hot test when I got home. Pressure held. 160 dry 194 wet
Tested that problem cylinder.
Im gonna go ahead and break down and do the valve job this weekend.
Time to look around and see what I need to get.
Last edited by my.daily'tl'; 02-28-2011 at 05:26 PM.
02-28-2011, 05:29 PM
#46
Always Working In
Thread Starter
And tl...it took me more than five cranks to get it up to pressure...it was more like eight to ten to make sure I was getting the right numbers
02-28-2011, 08:05 PM
#48
Testing Gurus:
where is a good fuse to remove during this -to disable actual coil ignition?
on wet test- do after dry, add a small amount of engine oil- just enough to allow it to add a ring on top of the piston rings, and fill scratches in cyl wall as you crank it a few times to spread- but not so much as to coat the piston top!
then insert comp guage and proceed as normal= throttle open,,5 cranks, watching guage very closely on this one
where is a good fuse to remove during this -to disable actual coil ignition?
on wet test- do after dry, add a small amount of engine oil- just enough to allow it to add a ring on top of the piston rings, and fill scratches in cyl wall as you crank it a few times to spread- but not so much as to coat the piston top!
then insert comp guage and proceed as normal= throttle open,,5 cranks, watching guage very closely on this one
, and you don't even have to remove any panels eitherbtw: kinda stupid, BUT where ALL the other plugs out when you checked each cylinder
02-28-2011, 10:22 PM
#49
Always Working In
Thread Starter
yeah try holding the throttle open this time (engine is NOT going to race out of control, since it is not going to run) btw: kinda stupid, BUT where ALL the other plugs out when you checked each cylinder
Will do that next time fries. Checked each one then replace plug rotate coil pack and checked next one and so on.
Will do that next time fries. Checked each one then replace plug rotate coil pack and checked next one and so on.
02-28-2011, 10:24 PM
#50
Always Working In
Thread Starter
yeah try holding the throttle open this time (engine is NOT going to race out of control, since it is not going to run) btw: kinda stupid, BUT where ALL the other plugs out when you checked each cylinder
Will do next time fries. Checked one replaced plug rotate coil pack and so on
Will do next time fries. Checked one replaced plug rotate coil pack and so on
02-28-2011, 10:26 PM
#51
Always Working In
Thread Starter
yeah try holding the throttle open this time (engine is NOT going to race out of control, since it is not going to run) btw: kinda stupid, BUT where ALL the other plugs out when you checked each cylinder
Will do next time fries. Checked one replace plug rotate coil and so on
Will do next time fries. Checked one replace plug rotate coil and so on
02-28-2011, 10:30 PM
#53
that is probably also why your battery drained so fast too 
idk if it is the phone or you, but pull ALL the plugs out with the coils, then compression check each cylinder WHILE holding the throttle wide open, then when done put ALL the plugs back in
idk if it is the phone or you, but pull ALL the plugs out with the coils, then compression check each cylinder WHILE holding the throttle wide open, then when done put ALL the plugs back in
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-28-2011 at 10:33 PM.
03-01-2011, 01:40 AM
#54
you have at least a ring problem- the wet test should barely matter if sealing is good already-- it jumped way up = much better seal with liquid on rings
Compare increase with another cyl-- with wet test, to verify
valve guide seals are always possible
Is there a backstory like overheating prob we are not aware of?
NOTE: if you suspect a blown head gasket- leave plugs in and ck for bleed over between cyls - ones with equal pressure are suspect
To save batt and starter- remove plugs as directed by others
and please please please
do a cold test- thats whats required on piston engines
Compare increase with another cyl-- with wet test, to verify
valve guide seals are always possible
Is there a backstory like overheating prob we are not aware of?
NOTE: if you suspect a blown head gasket- leave plugs in and ck for bleed over between cyls - ones with equal pressure are suspect
To save batt and starter- remove plugs as directed by others
and please please please
do a cold test- thats whats required on piston engines
03-01-2011, 01:42 AM
#55
remind me of the miles on car? wp replacement on time etc?
how old were those irids in the pic?
how old were those irids in the pic?
03-01-2011, 05:43 AM
#56
Always Working In
Thread Starter
Car has never overheated. Left coolant line off once when cleaning throttle but noticed it quick.
Ill test more this afternoon after work and batt charge.
Ill test more this afternoon after work and batt charge.
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