Ice-Tray

Hi everyone I'm really hoping someone can help me out here... I have read the other overheating threads but mine seems to only overheat in specific situations...

The temperature gauge on my 99 3.2tl is usually hovering around the halfway point, but when i go up steep or long highway hills now the gauge creeps up to 3/4 and close to the red. I blast the heat which keeps it at 3/4 and then as soon as I crest the hill the gauge goes back to the halfway mark... This last time i noticed that the fan stayed on for a while after i left the car...

What should I be looking for here?

Thank you

Gfaze

Are your fans turning on while you're driving?

Ice-Tray

i'm not really sure... the ac works just fine, and the car doesn't seem to over heat at any other time... The passenger fan was definitely on when i got out today, and stayed on for a little while

thisisnotdave

How are your fluid levels? One guess is that if theyre low and you tip your engine back you dont have enough too keep the ciriculation goin. dont take my word for it... also airbubles in the cooling lines can be a problem... but i dunno if that would happenin in such a case, dont really have hill where i live.

Ice-Tray

the coolant comes to about half way in the resevoir, (the max line i think) and i'm not sure inside the radiator...

Ice-Tray

i took the cap off the radiator and the coolant is florescent green and right to the top....

doughboi33

I had the exact same problem 3 weeks ago. I first thought it was the radiator, because green residue covered the top portion of the rad. So, i replaced the rad and tested the system (remembering to burp it) to release all the air out. 2 days later temp. started to rise again my friend said to go ahead and replace the thermostat and my upper and lower radiator hoses, because they felt and looked funny.

Overall, its just a thermostat problem most likely.

our cars are getting old =(

thisisnotdave

x2, thermostat would be the next thing, fairly easy to replace, hardest part is draining the fluild, it tends to hit the kframe and go all over the place.

Bob_F

Where is the thermostat located and how much fluid do you need to drain?

Bob_F

Did replacing the thermostat solve your problem?

Ice-Tray

X2 where is the thermostat? can i replace it myself?

01tl4tl

6-7-8- years old cars- its normal to replace all the coolant system hoses- the little bypass and TB warmer ones too! IMO use brand NEW coolant (some shops used recycled)
Complete empty system holds about 1.7 gallons of 50/50 mix coolant- honda of course uses special stuff in theirs. Use it or 'approved for honda/acura' coolant
All that rubber is good for about 5 years then goes downhill on the performance.
Some people replace radiator hoses and thermostat at the 105k service, since you are getting a new water pump-- may as well do all the related parts and drive another 100k trouble free miles.
If your hoses feel spongy soft or have extra spongy spot- (checked when cold/warm engine off) they are weak and can burst or deteriorate internally, I have seen many strange things in years of working on cars.

The thermostat housing has to be at the end of one of the rad hoses-
When it opens- hot water from the engine is allowed into the radiator so it cools off- thus forcing the cooler water in the rad to move into the engine, getting sucked in by the water pump and circulated under about 14 psi through the cooling ports of the engine--- and finally to the thermostat where it waits to flow out and do it all over.
Just follow them away from the radiator until one gets to a hosing with a bump in it.
Use the genuine HONDA thermostat- there have been issues with aftermarket and this is only a 10 dollar part-

To drain the radiator there is a plastic butterfly handle-screw with rubber washer - that goes in the bottem- usually driver side- back edge of the radiator. Lefty loosey, and remove that- open cap and out comes the coolant. To get the engine BLOCK drained when changing coolant- remove passenger side wheel, see the small bolt or butterfly thing on the rear of the engine block- right between the exhaust pipe and the CV metal shroud
Open that to get the rest of the old stuff out- thats very important to doing the job right.
Some years have a place for hose to attach so less mess- have grease sweep/cat litter at the ready for this job- use a big catch pan
Have heater set ON full hot temp so its valve opens and the contents join the rest of the draining process.
Check your owner manual for correct burping procedure- it can be a series of 2000 rpm till the fan comes on- then idle and top off- then 2000 till fan runs 5 minutes---then idle 5 minutes with cap off..those are example not exact- see your manual, but it takes about 20 minutes to be certain its perfect

NOTE- when you open the overflow/res bottle there is a rubber hose attached to the inside of the cap.
Thats got to be in place or the transfer system does not work.
Easily knocked off when moving the res around to work on headlights or even just opening it to check the fluid level and it can get loose.- Check that for sure~

fsttyms1

Sounds like the thermostat. Follow the upper hose to where it goes. the thermostat is in that housing.

Ice-Tray

you guys are awesome, thanks for the help so far... so just to be clear my car only overheats going up long steep hills, and this could still be a thermostat issue?

replacing the thermostat seems cheap, something i could do, but i don't think i can do the draining myself...

to solve my problem what order should i be looking to do these things?

also a friend mentioned the rad to me as a potential issue... the bottom 1/4 has many rock dents in the fins and there are lots of bugs, plus i lowered my licence plate which covers some air intake... could this be an issue as well?

thanks so much

doughboi33

yup everything was fixed and the car runs great after replacing all the parts i stated. The car was just handed down to me after crashing my Pathfinder. Now, all the problems are starting to come up, but so far i fixed the temp problem. Easy fix and everything cost me about 230. Car has about 173,000 miles on it =x

Car runs great again i would suggest you replace your coolant system also if u are having this problem.

But if problem still exist after replacing parts, then u might want to get the head gasket checked. I thought mines was done for...but it was just a small leak that was solved by replacing the Upper and lower hose.

NOW on to my next problem! ~ OIL PAN, BRAKES, VALVE COVER GASKET, SPARK PLUGS, =(

Ice-Tray

So I called the dealership and they were unable to shed any light on why it would only overheat on steep hills... they suggested that i bring it in, though he told me the diagnosis price could "get real ugly". Also he quoted me $50 bucks for a thermostat, and $60 for instillation!!!! I though it was a ten dollar part....

Anyways it looks like its either it gets sorted out here or I'm screwed for the summer (I live in a mountain valley) since i don't have the cash to diagnose at the dealership...

fsttyms1

Dont continue to drive it with it doing that. You may ruin the motor. Try replacing the thermostat.

Use this site to get one. (i believe its under water pump)
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp

01tl4tl

ok I may be off on the price- Im sorry- call the parts dept and ask them yourself.
The first thing to replace is going to be the thermostat- its easy and no need to drain the radiator when the thermostat is up level with the top of the rad- you will lose a little coolant but not bad-

How long have you owned this car? to know its real maitenance history
Was the coolant changed at 105k miles with the water pump and timing belt?
was that even done? current miles?

While its odd that a clean looking rad would be plugged inside- anything is possible, bent fins dont help- there is a tool to fix them and a soft brush cleans bugs off.
Coolant could have been changed by someone trying to cure an overheat on hills- I had similar prob on a nissan and it was the water pump AND dirty radiator
Blocking airflow to it when its a 100 degrees,, not great idea either~

Ice-Tray

ok, so i did some research:

there are 283543 kms on the car, i've had it for 1.5 years

the last time the coolant was changed was June 06 at 238495 kms

I went through the service records which i have since day 1, and there is no evidence that the water pump or thermostat have ever been replaced

the timing belt was last changed on its own in August 02 at 148721 kms...

doughboi33

yea u just need to replace the parts its easy to do at home...u dont need the dealer to do it for you.... they consider our cars as "gravy" cars because they can rape us on labor chargers... dealer wanted me to shell out 400 for an oil pan with install and 550 for a valve gasket and valve adjustment. As i quote the service manager, "Since we are doing a valve gasket we are half way there you should do the valve adjustment too". My valves are not even making any noise at all!!!