Oil Change Question
#1
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Oil Change Question
I am getting ready to do my own oil change for the first time in my life this weekend, but I had a quick question.
I have a 99 and have read that loosening the oil filter is a tight fit. . . How hard is it to get it undone? thanks
any other tips to change the oil will be greatly appreciated. .
actually while im under there, i think ill change the tranny fluid as well since the car has 65K and I have no idea when if ever the last time it was changed. How do I go about doing that?
thanks
I have a 99 and have read that loosening the oil filter is a tight fit. . . How hard is it to get it undone? thanks
any other tips to change the oil will be greatly appreciated. .
actually while im under there, i think ill change the tranny fluid as well since the car has 65K and I have no idea when if ever the last time it was changed. How do I go about doing that?
thanks
#2
Senior Moderator
as for the oil change its really easy. to make your life easier when you buy your oil filter ask for a oil filter wrench. it will make your life easier. you will need a 17mm socket for the drain plug. that may be tight but it will come loose. just dont over tighten any thing. its all a "judgment" call on how tight it should be (they dont need to be real tight) as for oil. are you ready to make the change to synthetic? its very nice and 8000 to 10,000 miles are easily achieveable between changes (i myself do 10,000)
as for the tranny DONT use any thing other than Honda atf fluid!
its very easy too. the plug is on the drivers sideon the side of the tranny, it takes a 3/8 inch socket extension to undo. that can be kinda tight. only 3 quarts are going to drain out. the filler is on the top of the tranny under the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. (cant remember what size that it 17mm?)
congrats on wanting to try. i do every thing my self. i dont trust any one working on my car
as for the tranny DONT use any thing other than Honda atf fluid!
its very easy too. the plug is on the drivers sideon the side of the tranny, it takes a 3/8 inch socket extension to undo. that can be kinda tight. only 3 quarts are going to drain out. the filler is on the top of the tranny under the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. (cant remember what size that it 17mm?)
congrats on wanting to try. i do every thing my self. i dont trust any one working on my car
#3
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Thanks.
Yeah im planning on switching to synthetic,
any recomendations on which oil and filter to use,
also with the tranny fluid, should i refill and drain 3 times, or it that not necessary, and whats this i hear about switching gears while doing that change. . .is there a DIY for the tranny fluid
Yeah im planning on switching to synthetic,
any recomendations on which oil and filter to use,
also with the tranny fluid, should i refill and drain 3 times, or it that not necessary, and whats this i hear about switching gears while doing that change. . .is there a DIY for the tranny fluid
#4
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I use Mobil 1 5W-30. Get it at costco for about $24/case of 6 or Walmart for $20 for 5qts. As for oil filter. Don't use Fram except for X2. There was a analysis on the web regarding all the different type of oil filters. Fram is pretty much cardboard inside, except for the X2. I use Purolator Pureone. I've heard ppl uses K&N and Mobil.
As for the ATF, use only Honda ATF. Call around different Honda and Acura deealers for price. They do varies. Get the filler bolt lose first, the dealer torque the sucker down pretty tight. Otherwise, you will be filling 3qt of ATF fluid through the little dipstick tube.
As for the ATF, use only Honda ATF. Call around different Honda and Acura deealers for price. They do varies. Get the filler bolt lose first, the dealer torque the sucker down pretty tight. Otherwise, you will be filling 3qt of ATF fluid through the little dipstick tube.
#5
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Here's are my materials:
Can of WD-40
Closed Oil container
4-5 cans of 10W-40 oil
Jackstands/Ramps
Set of socket wrenches
Oil filter wrench
Old newspaper
Fast Orange Hand Cleaner
Car glider/old piece of carpet, optional
WD-40 will loosen most anything screwed tight on your car. Once you've sprayed that on, you won't have to use as much elbow grease with that oil filter wrench or the oil can screw. Righty tighty, left loosey!
As for oil, I go more with the 10W-40. Valvoline is my preferred choice, although Mobil, Exxon, and Castrol are good too. I'm considering going synthetic one day, but the others will have to tell you more about advice on that. As far as filters go, Purolator and Deutch are good, although I've used Fram before too.
If you know anyone with car ramps, that makes your job much easier than with jackstands. Drive her up, put on the emergency brake, and you're good to go. Ramps are also safer in my opinion. If the car moves for any reason, it'll slide back down the ramps - not fall down on you. If you are going to use a jack and jackstands, put on your emergency brake, jack her up on the stands and make sure the jacks are steady(not leaning) BEFORE you get under the car. Give the car an hour if you can so she'll cool back down - you don't want hot oil on you.
As for cleanliness, liberally put some old newspaper around the area you'll be working in. This will keep the old oil off the pavement. As you do this more, less and less oil will wind up on your paper. Recycle your old oil when you're done. I wrap my oil canister with newspaper too, to keep any spilled oil off of my baby - even in the trunk. Buy yourself some $5 Fast Orange cleaner too - it'll clean your hands really well so you won't go to the club later with dirty hands and fingernails.
I started doing my own oil ten years ago. With the money I save, I haven't looked back. The great thing about those materials is that you'll use many of those same tools later for another repair! And if you don't have a certain specialty tool, check with AutoZone, O'Reillys, etc about their loaning programs. You may not need to buy it if it's a one or two use tool...
Hope this helps. Forgive the length.
Tee
2001 Satin Silver Acura 3.2TL
Titanium tint, sides and back 35% all around
Acura-TL door sills coming soon
Can of WD-40
Closed Oil container
4-5 cans of 10W-40 oil
Jackstands/Ramps
Set of socket wrenches
Oil filter wrench
Old newspaper
Fast Orange Hand Cleaner
Car glider/old piece of carpet, optional
WD-40 will loosen most anything screwed tight on your car. Once you've sprayed that on, you won't have to use as much elbow grease with that oil filter wrench or the oil can screw. Righty tighty, left loosey!
As for oil, I go more with the 10W-40. Valvoline is my preferred choice, although Mobil, Exxon, and Castrol are good too. I'm considering going synthetic one day, but the others will have to tell you more about advice on that. As far as filters go, Purolator and Deutch are good, although I've used Fram before too.
If you know anyone with car ramps, that makes your job much easier than with jackstands. Drive her up, put on the emergency brake, and you're good to go. Ramps are also safer in my opinion. If the car moves for any reason, it'll slide back down the ramps - not fall down on you. If you are going to use a jack and jackstands, put on your emergency brake, jack her up on the stands and make sure the jacks are steady(not leaning) BEFORE you get under the car. Give the car an hour if you can so she'll cool back down - you don't want hot oil on you.
As for cleanliness, liberally put some old newspaper around the area you'll be working in. This will keep the old oil off the pavement. As you do this more, less and less oil will wind up on your paper. Recycle your old oil when you're done. I wrap my oil canister with newspaper too, to keep any spilled oil off of my baby - even in the trunk. Buy yourself some $5 Fast Orange cleaner too - it'll clean your hands really well so you won't go to the club later with dirty hands and fingernails.
I started doing my own oil ten years ago. With the money I save, I haven't looked back. The great thing about those materials is that you'll use many of those same tools later for another repair! And if you don't have a certain specialty tool, check with AutoZone, O'Reillys, etc about their loaning programs. You may not need to buy it if it's a one or two use tool...
Hope this helps. Forgive the length.
Tee
2001 Satin Silver Acura 3.2TL
Titanium tint, sides and back 35% all around
Acura-TL door sills coming soon
#6
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by yankystat
Thanks.
Yeah im planning on switching to synthetic,
any recomendations on which oil and filter to use,
also with the tranny fluid, should i refill and drain 3 times, or it that not necessary, and whats this i hear about switching gears while doing that change. . .is there a DIY for the tranny fluid
Yeah im planning on switching to synthetic,
any recomendations on which oil and filter to use,
also with the tranny fluid, should i refill and drain 3 times, or it that not necessary, and whats this i hear about switching gears while doing that change. . .is there a DIY for the tranny fluid
#7
Burning Brakes
Is there a crush washer on the drain plug? I get free oil changes at the dealer and I think there is a washer or something on the invoice. I think I saw this somewhere else, maybe a different car.
When my free ones run out I'll likely do it myself. You don't only save money, you save time. You can do your own oil change anytime you darn well please
When my free ones run out I'll likely do it myself. You don't only save money, you save time. You can do your own oil change anytime you darn well please
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#8
Burning Brakes
It's not a crush washer. It's just a plain washer. I read mixed posts here that said it should or shouldn't be replaced every oil change. So I went to the dealer and picked up 3 for under $1.
#9
You can get that washer at the dealer's parts counter, they're very inexpensive. I asked to buy about ten of them and the guy just handed me about 15 and didn't charge me for them. I swapped out the original drain plug for one of those magnetic plugs that catch some of the metal debris that comes down the line. I know the engine block is aluminum but there's still some steel there. I think that's a 14mm.
Remember, the owner's manual recomends 5w-20 oil. I'm using Royal Purple synthetic in that same weight but it's not cheap. About $6-$7 a quart and then you have part of one quart left over. I'm told Pep Boys is carrying it now. I then use a K&N filter. Again, not cheap ($11-$14) but I'm getting anal about this car.
Remember, the owner's manual recomends 5w-20 oil. I'm using Royal Purple synthetic in that same weight but it's not cheap. About $6-$7 a quart and then you have part of one quart left over. I'm told Pep Boys is carrying it now. I then use a K&N filter. Again, not cheap ($11-$14) but I'm getting anal about this car.
#10
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Originally Posted by Tom Blasing
You can get that washer at the dealer's parts counter, they're very inexpensive. I asked to buy about ten of them and the guy just handed me about 15 and didn't charge me for them. .
#11
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Don't forget that the oil might 'shoot' out a little at first, so don't put your pan right under the drain plug, you might miss and get it all over your driveway.
Using a jack? Block the wheels opposite the side that you jack up, it will help keep the car steady.
No orange cleaner? Simple green works great![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
And if you do it first thing in the morning, and just start your car to move it, you'll be fine doing it right after, I've done it before and it doesn't get too hot that fast.
Make sure you dont drop the drain plug into your pan too, that sucked
Using a jack? Block the wheels opposite the side that you jack up, it will help keep the car steady.
No orange cleaner? Simple green works great
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
And if you do it first thing in the morning, and just start your car to move it, you'll be fine doing it right after, I've done it before and it doesn't get too hot that fast.
Make sure you dont drop the drain plug into your pan too, that sucked
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#13
What your problem is?
I posted a DIY in the first link ---->http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+change
These will help ya... do a search for more information....
http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+change
http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+change
These will help ya... do a search for more information....
http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+change
http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+change
#14
Originally Posted by shawn744
wow, that's freaking amazing....i asked my dealer for the washers, and he gave me one for $4, and the second one for $2, and the second one was only for a manual tranny....told him it's an 03 TL-S.....DAMN RETARDS. have fun.
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
what's the whole debate on whether to change it at each oil change or not? how would changing the washer affect/not affect anything? just curious... this is new to me...
oh -- p.s. i know quite some time ago people were posting that Acura (Honda) oil filters sucked cuz they were really manufactured by Fram... Well, here in Canada at least - they are no longer Fram filters in disguise... not for at least the past year (apparently).. i believe they are now using Honeywell... they feel much heavier...
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