Hi... I just recently signed up here ... because I just recently bought myself a 2000 tl ... well in anycase ... it's at 111,000 miles runs well and all ... but I wanted to change the oil and I'm not sure what kind to get...
any suggestions? thanks

 

I personally am conservative, meaning I follow the manual's recommendations. I don't do the whole synthetic oil thing. If you do, then I would listen to what others have to say. If you want to stick with petro based oil, go for anything in the 5-30 Weight. I don't see a difference in major brands, so I would recommend anything in that weight that you can afford.


BTW, has your transmission ever been replaced?

 

5 quart jug of a major brand 5w-30 at Walmart, Pennzoil seems to have the most "reliable" supply at Walmart for $8/jug, then also buy a $2.07 Supertech Oil Filter and you're good to go for about $10-$11.

MW

 

I honestly have no clue...

And does anyone use full synthetic... isn't that better when you're mileage is up there? ... I don't know i used to have a shitty car and I just put synthetic blend into that... but it was at 70k...

 

id personally never touch Penzoil ever again, even if you paid me. used it in out boat Just once and with in 3 gallons the motor had seized. i had it in the shop and there were 5 other boats in there for the same reason.


i switched over to syn at around 100k on my 2000. im now at 185k with no problems and i ran 8k oil change intervals up until recently when i bumped it to 15k. as long as you dont burn any oil now its safe to switch.

any thing from the 0w20 to 5w30 will be fine. if you dont want syn quakerstate and castrol have always been good to me and my hard driven engines

 

I’d have to disagree with you here. They were obviously other issues that caused the engine to seize, as the oil itself is rarely the sole cause. Perhaps antifreeze ingestion, length of intervals, and other parts of the engine?

In addition, remember that Pennzoil is the #1 passenger car motor oil installed in cars on the market. Not that I work for Pennzoil, but if Pennzoil really “killed” engines, I should see a lot more cars on the side of the road and OEMs banning the use of Pennzoil.

Again, I’d have to disagree with you here. Engines that have used conventional for >50K have lots of cumulative buildup, especially of residue wear metals. Once its switched over to syn, the syn oil will repeatedly attempt to clean out these residue wear metals, unsuccessfully, and at the same time, needlessly depleting the TBN, thus resulting in less than optimal results.

Running a deep cleaner such as Auto-RX, will remove these residue wear metals, buildup, and additive clash and allow for optimal results with the new syn.

If you do not believe me, go over to Bobistheoilguy and check out some of the recent oil analysis reports that were posted on high mileage engines that were recently switched over to syn, and their oil analysis results have been less than optimal.

MW

 

well your wrong on the penzoil since penziol paid for a new engine because it was THEIR product that caused it!

and i dont know what your dissagreeing on on the 2nd half????

i switched over at 100k, im currently at 185,500 miles, change my oil every 15k now it doesnt BURN A DROP, i have it tested just about every oil change with good results on the TBN, so what are you dissagreeing with?

 

You have to understand that when you put millions of quarts of oil on the market, you will have some, as they say, “bad eggs.” Ditto for a car, as car mfg. can have millions of excellent cars on the market, but will occasionally put out a lemon, by accident. That’s what happened in your case. Try to be more open minded about things, as they say, shit happens.

Less than optimal results, as in wear metal wise. People put too much emphasis on TBN, TBN is only ONE factor of oil life, oxidation/nitration, insolubles, flashpoint, and amount of ZDP left must all be taken into account as well.

Perhaps I could’ve been more accurate by saying that the first 3-5 runs of syn, may result in less than optimal results.

MW

 

5 other boats in the shop cause of teh same thing and none were from the same area is a lil more than a lemon. i do under stand that by putting it in doesnt mean that you will have bad results, just that i dont trust it any more and i know alot of people that will never use it again cause of bad results.

I know there is more to oil life than TBN. looking at teh test data on all my samples turned in none have had bad results. im not even sure whats trying to be argued here. all i stated is that if your not burning oil switching over to syn wouldnt hurt. im by no means a oil expert, but i do know alot about engines and mechanical stuff to know that when i switched over and my oil change interval isnt hurting my engine, and shouldnt hurt his

 

Mind sharing some of those oil analysis results? I'd like to see them. Thanks.

Not trying to doubt you here, by any means.

MW

 

BTW, this one example of what I was talking about:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=002623#000013

MW

 

here is one that i found that i had saved on my comp

 

fsttyms1,
You said that your UOA was fine, but sure enough, the wear metals are no where close to "fine" for a high mileage, 6-cyl Honda engine that should be well broken-in by now.

TBN=3.1--good retention

Al 6- elevated, since this is residue wear metals that are still being cleaned out 30K+ since your switch to syn.
Cr 1
Fe 24--high, should be 1ppm/1,000 mi., these are all residue wear metals that haven't been cleaned up sucessfully.
Cu 6
Pb 9--cleaning taking place, though possibly elevated from residue buildup.
Sn 1--possible bearing wear, since theres the presence of Tin
Mo 59
B 99
Si 5--air filter is working properly
Na 3
Ca 2942
Mg 11
P 763
Zn 954

SUS Viscosity @212F=62.1 (calculated to be 10.8cst, thickened up slightly)
Flashpoint: 410F--good, no fuel
Fuel: <0.5
Glycol, Water both neg
Insolubles, 0.5%--should be lower, perferably at 0.3% for best performance over long drains. Need to use FP60 at every fill-up to drop insolubles after RX clean-up.

Thus, this is what I'm referring to as less than optimal results. Your Al should be at 2-3ppm for this high mileage, Honda V6 engine. Fe should be 1ppm/1,000 miles, all of these are signs that the syn has not been able to sucessfully cleanup the residue wear metals and buildup. You should consider cleaning it up with two Auto-RX cycles, then start using FP60 as well at every fill-up and you'll see your results improve. Use dino for the two Auto-RX clean/rinse cycles.

MW

 

that was the first with syn oil in it, im trying to locat teh ones more recently