Oil Catch Can- DIY
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From: Illinois
Oil Catch Can- DIY
i bought this kit (universal) off ebay for $15shipped.
i also had to buy some vacuum hose and 2 reducer like things for $10bux at murrays
what u get with the kit

find a place to mount the can, i had to make a custom bracket for it.

i mounted mine here bc it was the only place i had room for it,


put lock tite on the bolt so it doesn't come loose do to vibrations

mount the catch can

take off cover so u can get to the vacuum hose clip

now cut the new hoses to size, i bought 3/8" hose, and secure the reducer like things (one side is 3/8" and the other is 1/2"), run the hoses


all finished

im going to go to pepboys to get some brass reducing fitting so it looks a bit better.
i also had to buy some vacuum hose and 2 reducer like things for $10bux at murrays
what u get with the kit

find a place to mount the can, i had to make a custom bracket for it.

i mounted mine here bc it was the only place i had room for it,


put lock tite on the bolt so it doesn't come loose do to vibrations

mount the catch can

take off cover so u can get to the vacuum hose clip

now cut the new hoses to size, i bought 3/8" hose, and secure the reducer like things (one side is 3/8" and the other is 1/2"), run the hoses


all finished

im going to go to pepboys to get some brass reducing fitting so it looks a bit better.
Last edited by Rajca; Oct 25, 2008 at 06:55 PM.
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
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From: Illinois
The catch can acts as a reservoir. it catches the oil vapors coming out of the valve cover and doesnt let the oil vapors back in the intake. every once in a while u have to drain the reservoir out from the oil.
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gonna revive this somewhat old thread and ask, are the oil catch cans a big benefit or not really big diff and more so for aesthetics? cuz im coming up on an oil change, and i got some of that amsoil 0w stuff and wondering if the catch can would be a good idea too
Why are you bypassing the PCV?
Sure the TB butterfly plate gets oily and needs a spray cleaning now and then, but its a smog device, so many states wont pass a car with that aftermarket can
If you are running a dedicated race car and pure air is a must, ok run a catch can--but on the street?
whats the point?
Sure the TB butterfly plate gets oily and needs a spray cleaning now and then, but its a smog device, so many states wont pass a car with that aftermarket can
If you are running a dedicated race car and pure air is a must, ok run a catch can--but on the street?
whats the point?
Slavver- you should not experience any additional oil loss/burning because of the amsoil or any brand synthetic.
Any internal combustion engine with pistons/rings is going to experience marginal blowby past the rings and into the crankcase... partially and unburnt fuel vapors and oil vapors.
Normally those vapors get routed to the intake, carb or TB, to be reburned and reduce the environmental impact of them being released into the air
The PCV operates off engine vacuum, so there ~may~ be additional issues with a non vac can system...
the TL is not your beater 73 chevy V8!!!
Any internal combustion engine with pistons/rings is going to experience marginal blowby past the rings and into the crankcase... partially and unburnt fuel vapors and oil vapors.
Normally those vapors get routed to the intake, carb or TB, to be reburned and reduce the environmental impact of them being released into the air
The PCV operates off engine vacuum, so there ~may~ be additional issues with a non vac can system...
the TL is not your beater 73 chevy V8!!!
slavver- the W in oil stands for Winter- the viscosity or flowabilty of the oil at 32F degrees
The first number is what the additives in the oil formula allow it to function as a 0 (easiest flow) when its 32F (freezing),
the second number is viscosity at 200-220F, normal oil operating temp
Both numbers are fake as they take a base oil of midweight and put stuff in it to work at both ends of the temp scale
The first number is what the additives in the oil formula allow it to function as a 0 (easiest flow) when its 32F (freezing),
the second number is viscosity at 200-220F, normal oil operating temp
Both numbers are fake as they take a base oil of midweight and put stuff in it to work at both ends of the temp scale
correction- if that 2nd hose on the can goes to engine vac source- of the same vac pressure as stock location--, then thats ok
too much vac and it will pull oil from the pan!
too little and it wont pull the vapors
too much vac and it will pull oil from the pan!
too little and it wont pull the vapors
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
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From: Illinois
one hose goes from the valve cover to the catch can and the other one goes from the catch can back to the intake pipe.
nf3d0149ab- thats A.J. the old host of "overhaulin'" my future wife
lol
nf3d0149ab- thats A.J. the old host of "overhaulin'" my future wife
lol
thanks tom ^^ my tl doesnt burn any oil as of now, so im not worried. and the amsoil should be worth a try if its anything like they say. ill prbly pass on the catch can for myself lol
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
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From: Illinois
its not much, and buy that time u will need an oil change. it wont gather oil any faster than it did with out the catch can. this is just so the blow by oil doesnt get sucked in the intake and into the cylinders. is so when the blow by happens the oil that would have gone into the engine will now be in the catch can.
The oil that is in that can isnt helping the engine. Its only purpose is to catch the oil before it gets drawn into the engine where it shouldnt be. To answer your question you would have to fill oil regardless with or without it if the level is low.
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