This is unbelievable, so i spend $250 on a set of pads and rotors for my 02 TL-S from Delray Acura in March/April and had no issues with my brakes. The past 2 weeks I've been doing more driving than usual and I've noticed the good ol' steering wheel shaking and brake pedal pulsating when i hit the brakes at any speed over 40mph. I really thought OEM brakes were going to last a long time but i am puzzled to know that the rotors warped so fast as if they were some cheap rotors from the local parts store. I do A LOT of driving but still do you guys think this is normal? I think it might be time for some XLR8 brakes, or any aftermarket brakes/rotors that won't warp on me for a long time to come.

 

So you are running the single Pot Caliper on the stock Rotor and you got yourself Warped rotor? add a Willy Wonka meme here...

First of all why you choose OEM rotors? They are overpriced and not much better than a cheap Autozone Rotor? I would suggest to inspvest in the 2 Pot caliper if you are using cheap rotors in the future and the OEM doesn't count as premium they are ACDelco blanks iirc..

2 Pot Caliper for Cheap Rotors
Or
Get stupid expensive rotors for the 1 pot.

 

Well excuse me for thinking OEM meant quality lol but anyway by "2 pot" do you mean dual piston caliper? I think i rather just buy myself a nice set of performance brakes like these....

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-398965.aspx

 

I dont want to bad mouth anything but before you take the jump FYI StopTech doesn't build it's lower end rotors those are made by ehem ACDelco.

Now if they are better quality or not I don't know.. What I know is that for 360 bucks (lack shipping) you upgrade to Dual Pistons + Good Rotors and a Pizza. And Dual Pistons actually enhance Performance by giving you brake feel.

Just my 2c.

 

Hey Gil'sUA5, when ya replaced the brake rotors and pads......did ya take any extra time with the existing calipers and retaining hardware for the pads ? It's possible something's hanging up.

IMO, ya have something going on with the calipers or elsewhere that needs attention before just diving into another set of rotors. It may be a good time for caliper upgrading as Skirmich previously suggested.......or at a minimum, rebuild the existing calipers along with cleaning and lubing all associated components. Maybe even new hoses and flush fluid ?

 

I'm definitely planning on flushing the fluid now when i replace the front brakes again. Which dual piston calipers can i upgrade to? any suggestions?

 

When you replaced the rotors, did you grease your slider pins, and make sure your pads can move in the slots in the caliper without much force? And the most important question, did you Torque your lugnuts? Over torquing your lugnuts will be the fastest way to warped rotors.

 

The Legend or NSX dual piston calipers are the best choices along with Prelude rotors.

Check this thread out, may help :

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/legend-caliper-conversion-735475/

 

i greased everything, I've installed brakes a bunch of times. I also torqued the lug nuts in a star pattern with a breaker bar not with an impact gun.

 

^ Ive learned the hard way that the issue is the 1-Pot Caliper.. You will always warp rotors with those unless you invest in some Heavy Weight Rotors (And by Heavy Weight I mean Quality).. The EBC 3GDC Never warped under the 1 Pot.

 

have to flush the fluid before further diagnosis
moisture laden fluid loses pressure and doesn't give full pressure to the calipers
Can feel like brake shake

Could need a simple cleaning and new oring of the calipers- but if crud has eaten inside caliper cylinder wall, I would replace them with the 1995 legend LS-C front calipers- rebuilt from wherever

SS lines deliver more pressure to the caliper and don't expend under pressure/use
Look at stock line while buddy presses brakes --100 bucks will fix that!
but wont cure a brake shake

 

was a torque wrench used on the caliper and bracket bolts- that's more important than most realize
the wheel lugs were tightened in a star pattern you say- was it in 2 or 3 tightness steps or all at once per lug?

On grease- did you possibly over-grease something?- the end tabs where the pads move? just needs little bit on inner portion- pad only moves a limited amount in and out- sits about 1mm off rotor when at rest
Excess grease gets flung off and can adhere to a pad= causes weirdness

 

I never warped a set of rotors yet, from the OEM, the cheapest autozone ones Im still on the original calipers up front too. The biggest key is is to take it very easy on the rotors for the first few hundred miles, then go bed them in.

 

Also what was the torque you used on the lugnuts.

 

I warped OEM rotors on my first couple of years with the car... Every time I always turned the rotor (cut it) more than what I used it.
Make the switch to Brand Rotors problem stopped. Then used the 2 Pot and well.. I don't know what a Warped Rotor is anymore.
And yes the Lugnuts where always Torqued.

Dunno how you don't warped rotors fatty? this is a recurrent problem in almost every big 1 Pot caliper Honda uses.. From Pilot to MDX before they both made the jump to dual piston.. Accords have the same issue too.

 

Very impressive considering your accumulated mileage and rather aggressive driving style !!!

So, all it takes is a little bit of patience and then bed them in, huh ?
This is all rather hard for me to comprehend at the moment, sorry man !!!

 

kris flushes his brake fluid more than the average driver as his car sees real race track time whenever he has an afternoon free
One key to brake rotors is letting them cool off after heavy use
driving at freeway speed 15 minutes will cool off the most aggressive bedding of race type pads, street pads less
Hot pad material transferred to the rotor in one spot- holding brakes on when stopped with hot brakes- will leave an imbalance that can be removed with proper re-bedding

 

A few things in our second gen autos that you should never buy OEM is motor mounts, rotors and brake pads.


Rotors warping that soon after install could mean a couple of things already stated.
-improperly torqued lug nuts
-slides not greased
-caliper sticking
-accumulation of rust between the hub and the wheel
-brake fluid old


Your braking is very important, if everything checks out return the rotors and buy a new set. It is very possible that it is the rotor.


For 250 bucks you can buy a set of drilled and slotted with brake pads. Set meaning 4 rotors and 4 brake pads.

 

Also did you check your rear brakes? Check for uneven wear on the brake pad (caliper is bad). If the rears are not working properly it can cause your brake system to brake unevenly, thus causing "brake judder" or what one will call warping or shaking.

 

Brembo Blanks-$100 for a pair and Acura Pads $48. Combination I've been using for 7 years. Works great.

 

For those with knowledge about the Legend calibers. Looking to upgrade my brakes but with the age of the car looking to save a little.

I know the Raybestos ones are good but they are $68 from rockauto. Advanced has some for $50 plus you save 15% with a coupon so I could get two front calibers for 70 vs about 140 plus shipping.

These are the Advanced ones. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/r...461%7CL3*15684

anyone has any experience with them.

thanks

 

Seems like a good deal for the reconditioned Legend calipers. Even has a lifetime warranty !

 

Like i said, you need to take it easy on them the first few hundred miles THEN bed them in. (an old weekend racer/auto x'er gave me that tip back in the 90s). Ever since then i have never had an issue.

Turning the rotor only makes it thinner and if not turned correctly it can lead to warping or become warped from doing so.

I should also add i have pretty much tried every pad out there and will only run EBC Greens/Reds. A quality pad that wont glaze the rotor is also key.

 

re: ad pic, why would you want the same single piston caliper thats stock?

there are several listed for the legends various models- the 1995 ls-C, coupe- has 2 pistons with closest to same size, works best for us

use the raybestos numbers and cross referance

 

Just today I got a good tip on brakes pads from a mechanic with 50 years of experience. He said to try the Wagner Thermoquiets for very little brake dust and they work very good in winter and summer. But also have read very good reviews on EBC`s. I have EBC greens on the rear calipers. I will check out the Wagners.

 

So front calipers like these (for example) would be a direct fit?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...dot-40057.html


oh and for the record i VERY RARELY use my brakes over 60mph, i cruise under that speed when I'm going to exit the highway and then slowly apply the brake. I say this because i know braking while doing high speed is a nightmare on rotors.

 

long slow dragging of the brakes is bad too

those look like the right calipers, we get them `semi loaded` so we can steal the springs and bolts off them
throw the bracket away it does not fit no matter how much it looks like it does
and reminder that those calipers get installed `backwards` of the ls-c , r on l and l on r side of car

someone did post the numbers for bare caliper, that's otherwise the same part

 

yup those are semi loaded