do we have any options, i know when i had my 240 we could use quest alt's. do the vans or pilots have alts that put out more amprage?

 

The type-s is higher than the TL-P if i remember correctly.

 

I'm pretty sure the tl-p is 105 amp, the tl-s is 120, and the odyssey and/or pilot is 135 or 140.

 

TL-P is 110A and TL-S is 120A

You can use a Direct Bolt On Odyssey ALT for 130A
or get a Rewind for more Power..

My Question is how much power your planning on delivering?
TL-S Alt can in my Experience hold 1K RMS easily.. the Ody Alt somewhat 1.3K RMS.

 

Mo power for the amps ?

 

little bit more juice, not going crazy just in the planning stages and trying to get everything in line, looking at a 600w 4ch amp, and 2 1000w mono's all pushing 2 dd 10's, probably a 2f cap also, still planning tho things can deff change tho as i still have a few things to do before i get to this point, but the info is great to know when my alt goes out lol. thanks everybody

 

True 600w and 1000w? cuz thats crazzyyy Power..
2600W RMS will require a Full Hand Winded Alternator for Sure.

 

thats what the plan is right now....but as my priorities change around on the car, and if my direction with how i see my car sitting in the next year changes then no, but otherwise yes.

I plan on doing almost a full dd setup, i really love how their products sound.

not only will i have to upgrade my alt setup but alot of other electrical components as well, so we shall see

 

damn, I didn't know the base and type s had different alternators. I'm still on my base alternator, but I'm not running a stereo system or anything.

 

Get a custom alt, will be better than a rewound stock. Will put out more power at lower rpm's and will last much longer. I got a quite from Tenney alts for $325 shipped for a 200 amp. A 180 amp was $275.
And ditch the capacitor, it 99% of people don't need them, and misuse them as a bandaid for insufficient electrical.
DD makes good subs, and they cost it too lol. But as far as components I'd look elsewhere. Myself and a few other I know are running the new JBL ms series and sound amazing. Im running them active off an 80prs.

 

With 2K RMS Im thinking more of a 200A Alternator and 2 Battery´s (Hood+Trunk) with 1/0AWG Power and 2/0 for Overkill...

And Im in the No Capacitor Crowd.. Capacitors are just a gimmick.

 

I have a tl-s and I run a 1100w class d 5 channel amp, when I bump it, my interior lights start to dim. So you'll definitely need a custom alt with the setup you're going with. Werd on ditching the cap, its pointless if you ask me. I've used ohio genorators custom alts before, their a bit on the expensive side but its worth it. When I decide to go bigger, I'll try them or DC.
With all that power, you should look into orion subs.

 

Need to check your stuff bro... Im running 1K RMS with no light issues (Have SMD Interior Tough)..

Upgrade Battery? Hell alot of Things but the TL-S Alt is good for 1.1K RMS I would even dare to say 1.2K if your not running accesorys.

 

I was running a Hifonics 2000W 4 channel and Hifonics 1500W mono amp, 4 6.5s, 2 tweeters, 2 3.5s, 2 6x9s, and 2 10" subs with no capacitor and stock Type S alternator. I didn't have any issues with lights dimming.

 

Here's a good analysis of capacitors:

http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-...They-DONT-Work

 

Holy Crap! Thats Asking the God of Electronics to Destroy your Alternator It may work but your alternator will run SUPER HOT (Depending on Load = High Volume) possibly taking alot of the bearing life and Stator Brushes.

Also those Hi-Fonics are A/B which are pretty Un-efficient.

 

inefficient***

yeah I had plans to do the Big 3 and upgrade the alternator but I never got around to it before I parted out. the setup is for sale now.

 

good reading on the caps, might just ditch them. i also agree on DD mids, i like focal mids but im not sure if i want to spend that kinda of money on mids atm. i also loved my old BA components, so im not sure on what i will do for mids.