OE or aftermarket rotors
08-12-2007, 01:23 PM
#1
OE or aftermarket rotors
OK I have been calling around different places for price on a brake job including getting the rotots replaced.
Sears said $370 Wagner rotors
Firestone $450 Napa gold rotors
Aboves prices include tax and new pads.
Now How hard is it to change out just the rotors at home. I am pretty good with everyday maint. But never delt with the brakes. I found Brembo rotors on tirerack and the price isnt so bad. I looked at Austin DIY for the rotor and that ddnt seem so hard, but he made it seem really easy. Any other DIY out there.
Sears said $370 Wagner rotors
Firestone $450 Napa gold rotors
Aboves prices include tax and new pads.
Now How hard is it to change out just the rotors at home. I am pretty good with everyday maint. But never delt with the brakes. I found Brembo rotors on tirerack and the price isnt so bad. I looked at Austin DIY for the rotor and that ddnt seem so hard, but he made it seem really easy. Any other DIY out there.
08-12-2007, 02:42 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
i changed my own about 2 weeks ago, rotors cost me like 58 bucks for the front, and pads cost me ~40 bucks from an acura dealership that sells pads on ebay. So total cost was ~100 bucks and didn't take too long, I borrowed an impact screwdriver from a friend and the rusted screw on the rotor came off easily
08-13-2007, 12:17 PM
#6
Originally Posted by VoLLy_1llusioNz
I'd rather get OE rotors rather than Wagner rotors (OE's are better quality). A real rotor upgrade would be Brembo blanks or Rotora Slotted. I have the Rotora's and they are wonderful.
So is that a yes to Brembo blanks. I called the ac dealership and they will install them with new pads and all for $180 with tax.
08-13-2007, 12:57 PM
#7
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I have Brembo blanks on my car for about two years... not bad at all.
Now I also need to get rotors resurfaced and change brake pads.
Acura quoted me the price of ~CDN$500 for front and rear.
I am thinking get it done at another place for a cheaper price....
Now I also need to get rotors resurfaced and change brake pads.
Acura quoted me the price of ~CDN$500 for front and rear.
I am thinking get it done at another place for a cheaper price....
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08-13-2007, 01:05 PM
#8
Trolling Canuckistan
Originally Posted by VoLLy_1llusioNz
I'd rather get OE rotors rather than Wagner rotors (OE's are better quality). A real rotor upgrade would be Brembo blanks or Rotora Slotted. I have the Rotora's and they are wonderful.
08-13-2007, 03:17 PM
#11
Senior Moderator
You know for a member thats been here longer than me, one would think you would know whats good and not 
08-13-2007, 03:41 PM
#12
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
You know for a member thats been here longer than me, one would think you would know whats good and not
Yes I know but that $75 savings
Kris I look at that as 75 Cheesy Bean and Rice Burritos from Taco Bell.
Most likely I might be settling for the Brembo Blanks and Hawk pads.,
08-13-2007, 05:15 PM
#13
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Yes I know but that $75 savings
Kris I look at that as 75 Cheesy Bean and Rice Burritos from Taco Bell.
Most likely I might be settling for the Brembo Blanks and Hawk pads.,
Kris I look at that as 75 Cheesy Bean and Rice Burritos from Taco Bell.
Most likely I might be settling for the Brembo Blanks and Hawk pads.,
taco bell
08-13-2007, 05:35 PM
#14
Suzuka Master
I've had Brembo blanks & akebono pads for 2 years. I think its slightly better set up than OEM as far as warping goes, and considering I saved money, it makes it a good deal. Next time I need to replace rotors I will do the same. If you are not looking for performance, and just want something decent without spending too much money, Brembo is the way to go... I also highly recommend Akebono as a replacement for OE pads.
08-13-2007, 05:48 PM
#15
Originally Posted by russianDude
I've had Brembo blanks & akebono pads for 2 years. I think its slightly better set up than OEM as far as warping goes, and considering I saved money, it makes it a good deal. Next time I need to replace rotors I will do the same. If you are not looking for performance, and just want something decent without spending too much money, Brembo is the way to go... I also highly recommend Akebono as a replacement for OE pads.
08-13-2007, 11:51 PM
#17
02 WDP type-S Navi
there are so many options out there, most used int he forum are RacingBrake, Rotoras and Brembo OE Replacements. With the brembos u can get them resurfaced anywhere when they get warped. That is not as easy with Rotoras and Racing Brake due to Slotted surface. OEM parts are just a damn rip. I was on a budget when it came to my rear brakes so I bought some Raybestos PG Plus rotors for my rears and satisfied pro ceramics pads they work great little brake dust too. At 15 bux per rotor n 35 for pads how could I lose...... total cost= 65bux 
08-14-2007, 01:29 AM
#18
the point of slotted rotors with advanced metals is that they dont wear out fast or warp like the standard blanks do.
In most cases you will go thru a few sets of pads and not need to resurface a slotted rotor- and the slots serve as wear indicators- when gone- time to replace
similar to the groove in many brake pads - when thats gone so are the pads life and abilty to deal with heat cycles
In most cases you will go thru a few sets of pads and not need to resurface a slotted rotor- and the slots serve as wear indicators- when gone- time to replace
similar to the groove in many brake pads - when thats gone so are the pads life and abilty to deal with heat cycles
08-15-2007, 02:04 AM
#20
Wow those look groovy as gravy man- scoop those up fast!!!
You know how I love my flash and dash to the scene of the crash~
Cheap rotors with unknown mod techniques--- I would risk my butt at 120 mph on those for sure!!!!
Spend a 100 now- and the crash deduct is only 500- and the wife is well insured so...
Dude get me 2 sets while you are there ok?
Is that being fair and balanced enough for everyone now? <g>
You know how I love my flash and dash to the scene of the crash~
Cheap rotors with unknown mod techniques--- I would risk my butt at 120 mph on those for sure!!!!
Spend a 100 now- and the crash deduct is only 500- and the wife is well insured so...
Dude get me 2 sets while you are there ok?
Is that being fair and balanced enough for everyone now? <g>
08-15-2007, 08:03 AM
#21
Senior Moderator
These are supposed to be pretty good and have a Thermo-Graphic markings are placed on the outer edge of each DBA 4000 series disc rotors and are used to monitor the core temperatures achieved during braking application. The markings change color as the rotor heats up to alert the driver to rotor temperatures that exceed optimum levels.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=A
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=A
08-15-2007, 08:19 PM
#24
VIP
Welcome to the forum!
You will find the general consensus here is against cross drilled rotors for the TL
UNLESS they are specially designed ahead of making- for that purpose- with different inner strength characteristics such as found on the 2 piece Rotora or RacingBrake rotors
On a 1 piece rotor, the best gains are from side slots- if you drive it in a spirited manner- that requires repeated heavy braking to keep you alive~
See the Off Topic section Sponsored Sales and read about those products
Welcome to the forum!
You will find the general consensus here is against cross drilled rotors for the TL
UNLESS they are specially designed ahead of making- for that purpose- with different inner strength characteristics such as found on the 2 piece Rotora or RacingBrake rotors
On a 1 piece rotor, the best gains are from side slots- if you drive it in a spirited manner- that requires repeated heavy braking to keep you alive~
See the Off Topic section Sponsored Sales and read about those products
08-20-2007, 08:43 PM
#27
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Got the Akebon Pro Ceramic Pads and Brembo blanks for $201 Shipped. Getting them installed next week along with getting the brake fluid change for $100.
I think you will like this setup better than OEM, and its also cheaper!
btw, brembo blanks matches OEM specs 100%, so its almost like having OEM rotors.
08-20-2007, 09:44 PM
#28
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Ok changing brake fluid is next, I just got in patient and did the brakes today. Can I avoid bleeding the brakes????
08-21-2007, 12:36 AM
#30
One day I will learn to hyperlink old threads- \
Turkey baster remove most old fliud from master cyl- protect fender and area below/around master with towels- brake fluid and paint- not a good mix
Refill to max line and cap all the way- note how cap gets tight then goes a little farther to the locked position
Place a small piece of 2x4 wood or something to prevent brake pedal from more than 3/4 of its full travel- this protects the seals and makes it easy for untrained friend to assist
Order is LF driver front then LF RF RR LR
between each wheel top off the brake fluid-keep cap on new fluid too
to do- pump pedal 5 times and then hold with pressure required to hold at stoplight ro a little more effort- helps push the fluid thru the lines
Bleeder guy: use box end wrench its 8 or 10mm= I dont know- my wrench has each on it!
Use 1/4 clear tubing- for fishtank -slip onto fitting and place end in plastic water bottle.
Open bleeder valve 1/4-1/2 turn as helper pushes pedal down and when pedal hits wood block helper says DOWN and holds the pedal down while you close the bleeder
Pump 5 times and hold- open -down- close
it can help to say pump holding down (you)ok, (them) pump holding down,-- ok
do about 5 to 10 times until clean fluid comes out then a few times more for good measure, you have plenty of fluid for the job- dont worry
Refill master- move to next wheel- drivers front then clockwise around the car
Refill to max when done- start engine- press pedal twice- test drive and do same thing- if brake stays the same all is well
If you replaced brake lines you have to test the ABS with 2 ABS stops
not recommended for those with new pads and rotors
Valvoline synthetic DOT4 at 6$ is good stuff -there are more intense brands like kris uses if needed
Turkey baster remove most old fliud from master cyl- protect fender and area below/around master with towels- brake fluid and paint- not a good mix
Refill to max line and cap all the way- note how cap gets tight then goes a little farther to the locked position
Place a small piece of 2x4 wood or something to prevent brake pedal from more than 3/4 of its full travel- this protects the seals and makes it easy for untrained friend to assist
Order is LF driver front then LF RF RR LR
between each wheel top off the brake fluid-keep cap on new fluid too
to do- pump pedal 5 times and then hold with pressure required to hold at stoplight ro a little more effort- helps push the fluid thru the lines
Bleeder guy: use box end wrench its 8 or 10mm= I dont know- my wrench has each on it!
Use 1/4 clear tubing- for fishtank -slip onto fitting and place end in plastic water bottle.
Open bleeder valve 1/4-1/2 turn as helper pushes pedal down and when pedal hits wood block helper says DOWN and holds the pedal down while you close the bleeder
Pump 5 times and hold- open -down- close
it can help to say pump holding down (you)ok, (them) pump holding down,-- ok
do about 5 to 10 times until clean fluid comes out then a few times more for good measure, you have plenty of fluid for the job- dont worry
Refill master- move to next wheel- drivers front then clockwise around the car
Refill to max when done- start engine- press pedal twice- test drive and do same thing- if brake stays the same all is well
If you replaced brake lines you have to test the ABS with 2 ABS stops
not recommended for those with new pads and rotors
Valvoline synthetic DOT4 at 6$ is good stuff -there are more intense brands like kris uses if needed
08-27-2007, 10:07 AM
#31
OK time I have had the Brembo OE rotors and Akebono Pro Acts for one week now. Stopping power is better than stock. No vibration. NO Noise! I always had noise when stopping.
Now time to change the rear pads and still need to do brake fluid.
Now time to change the rear pads and still need to do brake fluid.
08-27-2007, 11:21 AM
#33
Yes
Buy a can of hi temp bbq spray paint- good to 1200 degrees $5
Spray into disposable cup and use foam brush to apply to rotor
or buy a duplicolor caliper painting kit $10 good to 500-600 degrees
and paint the rotor parts not touched by the pads
Thats my project before a meet next week, install new EP300 pads from RacingBrake all around and paint the calipers-
The rear rotor is off brand- wife hates the rust- so its getting its center hub and edges painted too! An easy fix that even makes it look like upgraded brakes~
Buy a can of hi temp bbq spray paint- good to 1200 degrees $5
Spray into disposable cup and use foam brush to apply to rotor
or buy a duplicolor caliper painting kit $10 good to 500-600 degrees
and paint the rotor parts not touched by the pads
Thats my project before a meet next week, install new EP300 pads from RacingBrake all around and paint the calipers-
The rear rotor is off brand- wife hates the rust- so its getting its center hub and edges painted too! An easy fix that even makes it look like upgraded brakes~
08-27-2007, 03:14 PM
#37
If thats all it needs- sure-
but we can only guess as to the state of the current rear rotors
Are they grooved?
I painted my front calipers and brackets last night, sanded the rotors clean and installed new pads this morning, finish up with the rears tonight
It takes few minutes to sand off rust, and paint with 2 or 3 coats, but the results are well worth it, kind of like first time you claybar the car, you dont realize how much better it looks until you do it
Mike B: We generally are talking about high performance upgrades when discussing brakes for the TL- its main weak point thats easily fixed with great rotors and pads
You can use cheap parts- but brakes are something where you get what you pay for
If you never take the car to backroads or the track- get good basics parts and enjoy~
but we can only guess as to the state of the current rear rotors
Are they grooved?
I painted my front calipers and brackets last night, sanded the rotors clean and installed new pads this morning, finish up with the rears tonight
It takes few minutes to sand off rust, and paint with 2 or 3 coats, but the results are well worth it, kind of like first time you claybar the car, you dont realize how much better it looks until you do it
Mike B: We generally are talking about high performance upgrades when discussing brakes for the TL- its main weak point thats easily fixed with great rotors and pads
You can use cheap parts- but brakes are something where you get what you pay for
If you never take the car to backroads or the track- get good basics parts and enjoy~
08-27-2007, 04:00 PM
#39
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Backroads is what my ITR is for. 
I have noticed the brakes are a bit sluggish on the vehicle but I have probably spoiled myself with the ITR.
I too have noticed the TL brakes are a bit sluggish but what concerns me is that if they bight they much better, I wonder how my 2 month old son is feeling in the back seat? So when Im in my TL, I just drive it like a grandpa.
I have noticed the brakes are a bit sluggish on the vehicle but I have probably spoiled myself with the ITR.I too have noticed the TL brakes are a bit sluggish but what concerns me is that if they bight they much better, I wonder how my 2 month old son is feeling in the back seat? So when Im in my TL, I just drive it like a grandpa.