When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently picked up a 02 TL-S for cheap. Only issue was a CEL with a bad O2 sensor. No biggie.
I drive it 30 miles home and give it a nice bath.
I drive it for a few days to/from work when out of nowhere it starts to overheat when pulling onto my road. I pull it in the garage and coolent is pouring out from the engine bay.
Long story short I trace it to leaking behind the crank. This is when I truly realize how much drugs the designer of the 3.2 was on.
The water pump, behind the timing set, behind the covers, behind the pulleys, held down by the motor mount,... was bad.
So i buy the water pump/timing set kit and dig in.
As soon as I take the tension off the PS belt, the crank pulley/harmonic balancer falls apart.
Must have happened when VTEC kicked in... couldnt handle the power...
So after a long day, I replaced the water pump, timing kit, and the pulley.
That was a week ago. On my way home today it starts to overheat again.
Yay...
Well after cleaning in filling with water, I finally found the leak.
Looks like Im buying a new radiator. I have always been the kind to spend a bit more when replacing a broken item to get a better item.
My question is, is there a superior product out there? I know this car does not have a trans cooler, is there a radiator with support for one or is unnecessary with these cars?
you can tell the story without sounding like a complaint, just like I can give advice without sounding condescending.
it's just hard to convey intentions over the internet through text. you cant see my face to know that I have no ill intentions.
why not check out the rockauto OEM radiator for 60 bucks? its very easy to clink the link and select your car.
and If I Remember Correctly, there arent any bigger or badder radiators....and your car wouldnt need OR benefit from a bigger badder radiator because you're not pushing extreme heat.
Rockauto can be a good source for parts. Sometimes they won't have what you need, but if they do, you can bet you'll be saving a lot of cash on it through them.
if you really wanted to get technical, the Honda Accord's radiator is a little beefier than ours. you could technically use that, however, there is no real main benefit.
I only know this because one of our resident engine builders, turbo'd his accord and was looking for a bigger core'd radiator, but didnt find any as the Accords rad is cooling the car just fine.
I have already looked at rockauto. This is not my first vehicle. I have been a sales rep at Summit Racing, and in the "car" scene for a long time. My question was more pertaining to the pros/cons of a "bigger badder radiator" due to this specific car that I may not know about. I know that the trans is a known flaw in the TL. So my question was to see if others have found that a trans cooler has helped with that. Also adding an oil cooler to it. My question wasnt where to find a stock radiator. That is why I said I would wait for other people input.
check your sources at summit racing, as that would be a better source for finding a larger core'd radiator that still fits at the mounting points
Thank you, that was all i needed to know.
Now if only I could go back in time and find this site before purchasing the EOM crank pulley and gotten an aluminum underweight one instead of the OEM one. haha
Ian, he's just ribbing you, like your friends would do in person. Unfortunately, a lot of that gets lost in translation when typing and seems a lot more offensive/condescending than it actually is.
If I took half of what Justn says seriously, I'd have lost my shit a long time ago
Not much of a mod guy or just dont believe the benefits outweigh the price?
From what A LOT of others say in MULTIPLE posts on here, its worth it.
I wouldnt buy one now after just replacing it but if I could go back, I would pay the extra $100 for it.
Ian, he's just ribbing you, like your friends would do in person. Unfortunately, a lot of that gets lost in translation when typing and seems a lot more offensive/condescending than it actually is.
If I took half of what Justn says seriously, I'd have lost my shit a long time ago
With that I apologize, I am used to my Jeep and Diesel forums where everyone just says "thats a shitty day man, have you tried this.." or "I havnt seen any better but hopefully someone else has some input on that".
I dont mind smart asses, and can be one myself. Helps to know thats how it is sent or it can be read differently thats all.
With that though, Justn... did you miss the part where I broke my pulley with all the power of vtec kicking in? I was going to fast to see your sense of humor
Not much of a mod guy or just dont believe the benefits outweigh the price?
From what A LOT of others say in MULTIPLE posts on here, its worth it.
I wouldnt buy one now after just replacing it but if I could go back, I would pay the extra $100 for it.
I can understand doing mods if there is a use for them. Cars have been dyno'd with and without the pulley on. They, at most, gain like 1hp, and it's not even throughout the entire power band.
I had one in my accord 6MT, back in the day. It was alright, I guess, but I think it was more of a placebo effect, more than anything.
With that I apologize, I am used to my Jeep and Diesel forums where everyone just says "thats a shitty day man, have you tried this.." or "I havnt seen any better but hopefully someone else has some input on that".
I dont mind smart asses, and can be one myself. Helps to know thats how it is sent or it can be read differently thats all.
With that though, Justn... did you miss the part where I broke my pulley with all the power of vtec kicking in? I was going to fast to see your sense of humor
There are plenty of silly people that come into AZ and it's almost impossible not to give them a hard time. We don't claim to be all-knowing by any stretch, but some of the shit people post here just makes you shake your head in disbelief.
It's even worse when these people start spreading misinformation or just plain bad advice. It happens all the time.
VTEC is a bitch though. It seems to always bend the space-time continuum whenever it engages.
There are plenty of silly people that come into AZ and it's almost impossible not to give them a hard time. We don't claim to be all-knowing by any stretch, but some of the shit people post here just makes you shake your head in disbelief.
It's even worse when these people start spreading misinformation or just plain bad advice. It happens all the time.
VTEC is a bitch though. It seems to always bend the space-time continuum whenever it engages.
I could write a book with what customers have said/asked me at Summit and add on the forum questions/statements so I believe you there haha
Everytime I see "VTEC" I remember it in vinyl on the hood of a supercharged Charger at Norwalk dragstrip. Just imagine Vin Diesels Charger in Fast and the Furious with a blower and big pink letters spelling "VTEC" lmfao
LOL wait.... Wait.... You didn't but the stupid cheap OEM JAPANESE MADE STOCK DENSO RADIATOR for 60 bucks??? Chinese made radiators will blow the fuck up quicker being a single row high pressure radiator.. You had one choice, one..
LOL wait.... Wait.... You didn't but the stupid cheap OEM JAPANESE MADE STOCK DENSO RADIATOR for 60 bucks??? Chinese made radiators will blow the fuck up quicker being a single row high pressure radiator.. You had one choice, one..
I bought the FREE radiator made by CSF manufacturing to OEM specs.
Can't pass up free.
the lightweight crank pulley is offered by a few makers, one is definitely NOT $100 more than OE...try ~40 dollars total!
BOMZ is the maker- they do lots of billet CNC work
The purpose of that pulley isnt adding HP = its losing 12 of 14 pounds total weight off the end of the crank
That allows the engine to rev easier-much faster into VTEC rpm- where the real power is
So its freeing up existing HP by reducing drag/weight
IAN, whats the miles on your TL?
the following info may help you - its intended for all new owners
register your car with acura care- 1 800 382 2238 x5 gets a human, You may be part of a few recalls...airbag inflators,,,,
The EGR passage and ports inside the intake manifold clog easily and should have manifold removed every 75kmiles--- passage/ports cleaned using 3 cans of carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger- or the correct mechanics tools, an egr passage reamer
Good time to adjust the valves as intake has to come off for access to them.
Despite the optimism of the owner book, if over 100 kmiles it needs some, or all- of the valves adjusted,
only way to know is ck each one and set as needed.
Tip!! Adjust valves AFTER oil change with system cleaning, the area of the adjustment is bathed in oil~
Many of us like to run Seafoam or BG44 thru the gas tank to clean injectors, intake valves, piston tops and O2 sensor- cat etc
With the car being new to you, and some problems that appear to indicate lack of maintenance = it wont hurt to run some system cleaner thru the engine
Some also use seafoam in the oil before a change. VTEC runs on oil pressure and changes in the oil pressure.
Sludge can build up in the sliders of that system
If you want-Im not forcing anyone! = do some vtec rpm hits during a 30 minute warm-up / cleaning drive
= that pumps cleaner-filled oil thru the parts that really need it~
Optional- install cheap new filter (assuming old one is nearly full), add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100-200 miles/1 week.
Drain while warm from 15 minute cruise.
Its important the oil be really warm for draining with seafoam!
the heat liquifies crud on the bottom of oil pan so it goes out too
10-29-2015, 11:50 AM
