New brakes installed...question about fluid flush.
I just got my new Rotora slotted rotors installed with Hawk HPS pads all around on my 03' TLS.
My mechanic who is a friend of mine told me he was going to replace the brake fluid. He sucked out all the old fluid with a machine, and then replaced the fluid.
My question is, is it recommended that the brake lines be flushed completely, or is what he did fine enough?
I took it for a drive, and did not notice anything weird or negative in how the brakes responded besides how amazing the new rotors and pads felt.
All help is appreciated, thank you!
My mechanic who is a friend of mine told me he was going to replace the brake fluid. He sucked out all the old fluid with a machine, and then replaced the fluid.
My question is, is it recommended that the brake lines be flushed completely, or is what he did fine enough?
I took it for a drive, and did not notice anything weird or negative in how the brakes responded besides how amazing the new rotors and pads felt.
All help is appreciated, thank you!
That was not a fluid flush more like a suck you!! He did nothing!!!!
What you need to do is suck the fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster
Then refill with good dot 3 OR 4 FLUID.
SYNTHETIC Valvoline is popular with the brake abuser crowd
All the old fluid must be pushed thru each line to the brake bleeder screw and then some extra for good measure.
Start at the RF drivers side front and work CLOCKWISE, thats to the cars right so its LF RF RR LR You will be shocked at the brown water contaminated fluid that comes out and will want to flush fully to asure no problems. Do it once a year and after track day or mental paitent escapes to the mountains driving.
Makes a HUGE differance in pedal feel
Takes an hour DIY with a friend and takes about 6 to 8 DOLLARS of fluid
what a cheap insurance practice for your brakes.
Then plan on friend wanting to do their car too.
Mechanics dislike brake bleeding compared to other faste money jobs
Do it slow- Do it right the first time
Bed the rotors and pads as directed by the maker and be sure the lug nuts are 80 ft lbs and thats it
What you need to do is suck the fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster
Then refill with good dot 3 OR 4 FLUID.
SYNTHETIC Valvoline is popular with the brake abuser crowd
All the old fluid must be pushed thru each line to the brake bleeder screw and then some extra for good measure.
Start at the RF drivers side front and work CLOCKWISE, thats to the cars right so its LF RF RR LR You will be shocked at the brown water contaminated fluid that comes out and will want to flush fully to asure no problems. Do it once a year and after track day or mental paitent escapes to the mountains driving.
Makes a HUGE differance in pedal feel
Takes an hour DIY with a friend and takes about 6 to 8 DOLLARS of fluid
what a cheap insurance practice for your brakes.
Then plan on friend wanting to do their car too.
Mechanics dislike brake bleeding compared to other faste money jobs
Do it slow- Do it right the first time
Bed the rotors and pads as directed by the maker and be sure the lug nuts are 80 ft lbs and thats it
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
That was not a fluid flush more like a suck you!! He did nothing!!!!
What you need to do is suck the fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster
Then refill with good dot 3 OR 4 FLUID.
SYNTHETIC Valvoline is popular with the brake abuser crowd
All the old fluid must be pushed thru each line to the brake bleeder screw and then some extra for good measure.
Start at the RF drivers side front and work CLOCKWISE, thats to the cars right so its LF RF RR LR You will be shocked at the brown water contaminated fluid that comes out and will want to flush fully to asure no problems. Do it once a year and after track day or mental paitent escapes to the mountains driving.
Makes a HUGE differance in pedal feel
Takes an hour DIY with a friend and takes about 6 to 8 DOLLARS of fluid
what a cheap insurance practice for your brakes.
Then plan on friend wanting to do their car too.
Mechanics dislike brake bleeding compared to other faste money jobs
Do it slow- Do it right the first time
Bed the rotors and pads as directed by the maker and be sure the lug nuts are 80 ft lbs and thats it
What you need to do is suck the fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster
Then refill with good dot 3 OR 4 FLUID.
SYNTHETIC Valvoline is popular with the brake abuser crowd
All the old fluid must be pushed thru each line to the brake bleeder screw and then some extra for good measure.
Start at the RF drivers side front and work CLOCKWISE, thats to the cars right so its LF RF RR LR You will be shocked at the brown water contaminated fluid that comes out and will want to flush fully to asure no problems. Do it once a year and after track day or mental paitent escapes to the mountains driving.
Makes a HUGE differance in pedal feel
Takes an hour DIY with a friend and takes about 6 to 8 DOLLARS of fluid
what a cheap insurance practice for your brakes.
Then plan on friend wanting to do their car too.
Mechanics dislike brake bleeding compared to other faste money jobs
Do it slow- Do it right the first time
Bed the rotors and pads as directed by the maker and be sure the lug nuts are 80 ft lbs and thats it
What about the fact that its an ABS car, does that involve more work?
To clarify my above post the direction for bleeding brakes is
LF driver front then clockwise to the right LF RF RR LR
Just keep repeating the pump and bleed until all clean fluid comes out-
easy to tell when you use a plastic bottle as catch can.
LF driver front then clockwise to the right LF RF RR LR
Just keep repeating the pump and bleed until all clean fluid comes out-
easy to tell when you use a plastic bottle as catch can.
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