i found a cheap LED bulb that will plug into a push in socket like our turn signals. it was so awesome cuz it is clear, but blinks red like the new high tech caddys. when i turned on the emergency lights it blinked fine. but when i turned on my stalk signal on only one side, it started hyper flashing. The front and the back. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

This would be such an awesome breakthrough for all of us!! it blinked like a REAL LED. it was HIGH TECH. no glowing on and off. just on or off. you understand right?

I think it has something to do with the relay or current. PLEASE help me help us all!!! do i cut a wire, do i cross a wire? there has got to be a way!!!!

 

PM shyne, he has the same leds and haveing the same problem

 

I have no experience with this on the TL but on tow vehicles when you add a trailer this sometimes happens. To fix it you can usually get a heavy duty "electronic" flasher that does not depend on bulb impedence (resistance) to trigger. There should be an off the shelf one available that will fit the TL. Try a local auto parts store. It's a plug in module that replaces the factory one. Usually $5-$10 if I remember correctly.

 

Where did you find that led boba? I have ben looking all over!!!!!!!!!

 

Like I said yall, these things are bad as fu@k...They look so damn good!!! I couldnt get them to work because every parts store I went to didnt have a special flasher that was made for the acura, you tell them what year your car is and they automatically cant help you...The trick is getting the stock flasher out and comparing it to one in the store...Damn i called FET USA and they have yet to call me back because they were at SEMA last week...Hopefully I will have some answers...I can give you a link to purchase these at 20$ bucks a pop...Lifetime waranty, i dont know if they are the same kind I have... http://www.mmrusa.com/led.htm that is the link...Good luck to all, this is definately a cheap great looking mod...Shyne

 

Boba, you cant wire it, because I tried every way you can do it and it wont work... I used a piece of copper to connect the two tab inside the socket and that worked fine for the signal but it makes it work like your hazards do, only one signal will blink normally but your interior lights will flash too along with your tail lights...A variable load flasher is what you are looking for...Here is a pic for you cats that aint knowin...Shyne

 

Will these work for the turn signals in the rear?

 

They will work great for the rear because I tried it, no nasty yellow,orange, or blue...They look cleaner on the fronts though with tha HID...I would put them in the rear, but the HyperWhites are tighter back there...Shyne

 

Hmm, I remember a long time ago when cars used mechanical flashers (bimetallic strips), one of the ways you can tell that a bulb was dead was that the flasher would click on and off super fast.

Now that we have digitally-controlled flashers, there should be no reason for this to happen. However, Acura's computer could have a current detection circuit that detects an open circuit (dead bulb) condition and then simulate the behavior of the mechanical flasher by blinking the flashers quickly on purpose. This is done (I guess) to allow the driver to know that a bulb is burnt out.

Now, an LED consumes way less current than an incandescent bulb (0.3A for a 15-LED cluster versus 1.5A for an 18W incandescent turn signal bulb). This minuscule current draw can fool the computer into thinking that there is basically no current flowing at all, i.e. the bulb is burnt out; thus, the fast blinking.

One solution is to add a shunt resistor across the LED leads to allow more current to flow when the LEDs are on. To simulate the bulb, an additional 1A of current would be needed, which means adding a 12-ohm, 12W resistor across the terminals. This resistor can get very hot, so be careful.

A better approach is to use a rheostat to measure exactly how much current must be drawn by each bulb to convince the computer into thinking that the bulb is OK. Maybe I'll do this when I finally get an LED bulb replacement!

 

Guys,

Will these led bulbs fit on the back turn signal lights for a 02 tl-s?

 

I agree with Daverman. Adding a resistor in parallel, across the signal terminals will consume some current and hopefully trick the circuit into blinking normally. Depending on how Acura wired up the lights, the blink speed might even depend on the resistance.

-josh

 

Reviving this older thread because I wonder if anyone has had any luck in getting the turn signals to calm the hell down when an LED bulb is installed?

 

I don't get one thing. The wedge type bulbs we use seem to be newer models than the typical 1137 push and turn bulb or even previous wedge type bulbs. Ours have no lip at the base and are smaller. Haven't these aftermarket LED bulb manufacturers addressed this hyper flashing problem? I am sure they designed them for these new car applications because I doubt they had a 1990 GM in mind when they designed them. Could it be you are using a bulb that is not the correct one even though it fits? What I mean is when I needed a yellow bulb for my Inspire tails I brought a 3157 I think and cut the base lip off. They work great but there must be a difference between that one and the 7440 we are supposed to use. I know FET only makes the older type wedge bulbs so they probably did not address the issue. I ordered LED bulbs that specifically replace the 7440 and 7443 part numbers. I will let you all know if they work right.

 

I have an '02 so I don't use the 7440 ... my turn signals are 1156. The APC LED 1156 is the right size but the two "nipples" on the sides of the bulb are directly across from each other. On the stock filament bulb they are at about 150 degrees of seperation. The APC bulbs fit into the socket and work, just at hyper speed... presumably because of low amperage.

 

Has anyone brought LED bulbs for their brake lights not just the turn signal? If so do they glow dim when the parking lights are on and then turn on and off instantly in sync with the brake pedal like the Deville caddy or a spoiler LED does.

 

I saw one in the Nashville area that worked that way. Mine are still on order but are "supposed" to according to APC (the manufacturer). I'm only worried they will cause the "Brake Lamp" light to come on ... though when the factory spoiler was added and the third brake light had it's other bulb removed it did not cause it to light.

 

I guess I'm going to return the 1156 bulbs to AutoZone until I can figure out how to fix the hyper flashing ... it gets on my nerves.

 

easy way to fix it.....basically the computer in the tl senses LOW LOAD in the socket and thinks that the bulb has burned out....which isnt the case so basically you need to splice the wires and hook up a pair of regular bulbs and toss it in the trunk....that will give more load onto the bulb...or you can go out and buy a 20 watt resistor and bridges it but you need to test the impedence on the stock bulb.....either way will work....

Jon Lerd

 

I was just thinking, leaving a heavy-duty resistor or an extra bulb to drain the current would produce a lot of heat, maybe enough to burn surround wire insulation if it came into direct contact. So if you do this, just be careful to keep the resistor or extra bulb away from other components.

Another solution to the fast blinker is to replace the factory blinker module with an aftermarket one. You can buy one's that blink at a constant speed regardless of current draw.

 

i just bought a pair of hyperwhite 1157s from SignalDynamics for use in my front turn signals... they look beautiful, especially contrasted with all the HIDs

unfortunately, I've also managed to reproduced the hyper flashing due to low load... SignalDynamics recommends replacement of teh stock signal flasher with a variable load model, so that's the route i'm going to go to fix the crazy blinking

one problem though... where is the stock one located? i can't seem to find it