Hello, AcuraZine!

I am a new member, typing on behalf of my mother who owns a 2001 TL auto with 140K miles. I hail from the bimmer/E46F scene myself

Given the miles on the engine, my father and I decided we had to change the timing belt, thinking the damage from a failed belt would be incredibly expensive and damaging to the engine. We also decided that we can DIY the belt replacement. After two weekends, we finally replaced the timing belt and its tensioner pulley and idler pulley.

We were careful not to mess up the timing. We made marks on the cams/crank and old belt, transferred them to the new belt, and matched up the new belt marks to the cam/crank marks. When we finished installing the new belt, we tried manually turning the engine via the crank pulley bolt to check for interference or any obvious faults. We noticed that every 1/3 revolution (120 degrees) of the camshaft, the engine would build up resistance and then suddenly release it, as though we were building compression in the pistons and overcoming it every 120 degrees on the cam. (The spark plugs were out at the time, so we weren't building actual pressure.) We thought nothing of it at the time and went ahead reassembling the front of the engine. While doing this, we installed new NGK spark plugs, which I was told were pre-gapped to our spec.

When we fired it up, it ran very rough, sounded obviously unhealthy, and was "puttering." It almost sounded like a bottom-end rod knock, but I know this isn't the problem. We thought it might be an ignition issue so we switched back to the old plugs. As my father took the new plugs out, he said they were covered in fuel. A day later, and the car doesn't start- the starter motor won't even try to crank it over.

I am returning home this weekend again to check doubly sure that our cams and crank are in the right relative positions (using the indicator markers on the timing belt cover.) If the timing is incorrect, we will obviously set it straight. If not, what other issues can be causing such rough running? And why did the engine stop firing? I can only assume the crank/cam position sensors put the motor into some sort of fail-safe mode.

I sincerely thank you all in advance for your help.

 

I've read something about timing being 180 degrees off.

 

You should never mark the old belt and new belt and rely on the marks. There is a mark on the crank pulley and the cover by it. Align the crank pulley with that mark, THEN check that the front cam gear mark and #1 are aligned with the inspection cover. It sounds like your timing is well off.

 

Well, you will have to rework the timing, so first thing is try to line up the 3 pulley marks. If they dont all line up, then you know which one to adjust. If they all line up, then it is not about the timing issue.

 

Not quit true, IIRC, the cam shaft will hit it's mark twice for each time the crankshaft hits it's mark. You can have one or both cam shafts alining up with the marks, but the actual valves will not be open or closed in the right sequence. The Number 1 cylinder should have both valves closed with the piston at TDC and that cam & crank sprockets on ther marks. You also have to make sure the other cam shaft is right, but I can't recall the indicator for that side.

Trying to make sure evrything is right is why you put everything on it's mark before removing the old belt

 

I don't believe it matters how many times you have to turn, as long as ALL Marks line up, you are good; it was designed that way. #1 cyl will be at TDC when all marks line up. If you dont believe me, remove spark plug #1 and put a rod in the whole, line up all the marks and you will see. What I meant is that you will see the one that is off by one tooth; not off by half cycle.

That is true what you said, meaning you have to keep turning until all marks line up. The camshaft hit its mark does not mean the crankshaft has hit its mark at the same time.

 

I'll be working on the TL again this weekend and correct any timing issues.

Meanwhile, I'd still like to know-

1) Can faulty timing in these engines cause a valve to stike a piston or something?

2) I still have no idea why the car is refusing to fire/ why the starter motor won't even turn over. Any ideas? How might the two issues be connected?

 

1. If 1 tooth off, it may be okay not getting a bend valve.
2. If the spark plugs are flooded with fuel, that can answer why it is not starting.

It could be something to do with the coil packs, or it is missing fire.

 

Thanks again for your replies

1) but there is still a chance for collision?

2) But the starter motor doesn't even begin to crank the engine. I don't believe that can be an ignition issue, can it?

 

YES there is a chance they can collide.

First thing to do is pull the plugs (one of the cyl may be hydrolocked with fuel, then manually rotate the crank till the line matches with the arrow. Then double check that the cams are lined up. If not Align them to their mark.

 

Hope I have better luck when I do mine.

 

come on up, ill give you a hand.

 

If you line up the marks on the 2 cams and the crack pulley spindle it'll be a piece of cake. BTW, now is a good time to change that front crank seal....easy.
The rear cam is a pain when installing the new belt because it just sits balanced between spring tensions. It wants to move 90 degrees at the slightest movement of the t-belt. I recommend using zip ties to hold down the belt on the cams so the teeth don't slip from under it....and get someone to hold the rear cam in place. I was able to do it myself after several tries though.

I used the technique presented here for the MDX:

 

I think I will have to take you up on that offer. That way I will be able to come home and do the same job to my van feeling confident that I won't fudge the job. That's my possible donor for maybe a 3.5 swap next year when I plan to get a brand new Oddy for the wife so she can stop raggin on me bout what I spend on the TL.