my tl type slow (6mt, 7-8 psi)
#81
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
My reservoir is just hanging behind the strutbar. No bracket. I also use a 92-95 Clutch master cylinder from a civic because the acura CL cmc has this clip for the hose (which was on super backorder from acura)
The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.
One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.
One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
#85
Pro
iTrader: (3)
1: NO, but the reason why i used my boomslang harness, and hooked it to that, is that that i can minimize the hacking of the factory harness (otherwise you have to cut and solder, on the factory harness) (you still have to route some additional wires though
http://www.boomslang.us/extension.htm
you still will have to cut and solder some on the factory harness though, but it is greatly minimized though (i think i only did like 2-3 wires total, to get all my dash lights "off" (i still got more though, i just have been too lazy , for like cruise, memory seat, parking brake (which works, just no light on the dash), and my reverse lights too
btw, you can also do like "assclown", he did the mechanical side of things, and let a shop do the wiring part (he also swapped a type-s though, into his 2000 TL)
2. as long as it has the curve, then yes it will be fine (and don't be lazy, and not change out your rear mount out at the same time, a couple of us, have broken a couple of things, from leaving the automatic mount on the rear, for a while)(it's the reason why you need the bend in the manifold)
as far as doing it yourself, actually not too bad, especially if you have changed a clutch before
http://www.boomslang.us/extension.htm
you still will have to cut and solder some on the factory harness though, but it is greatly minimized though (i think i only did like 2-3 wires total, to get all my dash lights "off" (i still got more though, i just have been too lazy , for like cruise, memory seat, parking brake (which works, just no light on the dash), and my reverse lights too
btw, you can also do like "assclown", he did the mechanical side of things, and let a shop do the wiring part (he also swapped a type-s though, into his 2000 TL)
2. as long as it has the curve, then yes it will be fine (and don't be lazy, and not change out your rear mount out at the same time, a couple of us, have broken a couple of things, from leaving the automatic mount on the rear, for a while)(it's the reason why you need the bend in the manifold)
as far as doing it yourself, actually not too bad, especially if you have changed a clutch before
My reservoir is just hanging behind the strutbar. No bracket. I also use a 92-95 Clutch master cylinder from a civic because the acura CL cmc has this clip for the hose (which was on super backorder from acura)
The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.
One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.
One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
I'm a RWD man, and although I thought this question would be common sense, I read over on fsttyms1's 6spd swap thread, and noticed his tranny was out but the engine was still in: this can be done without pulling the whole engine?
#87
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (8)
Before i take it to Alben shop i ready got e-brake done an replace brake pedal an pretty much installed the engine an tranny an other smalls parts.
Here my thread..
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/finally-doing-6speed-swap-763216/
Ah, ok. I've been researching the last few hours and I think I've gained enough knowledge now, but had a few questions:
1.) Richie's Module - is it plug-and-play? I only saw someone using it who had a TL-P. Wiring scares the shit out of me, but I'll learn if I have to...I need to practice soldering before hand anyway.
2.) Headers - I have XS Power headers and the rear set has the curve in it. Will this still fit?
I'm gonna have to do this by myself, in my garage Anyone know anyone in the ATL area that might be able to do this for a decent price if I provide ALL the parts?
PS: Sorry for piggybacking this thread, but it's semi-relevant and I didn't want to make a whole new thread when there's a ton out there alreay.
1.) Richie's Module - is it plug-and-play? I only saw someone using it who had a TL-P. Wiring scares the shit out of me, but I'll learn if I have to...I need to practice soldering before hand anyway.
2.) Headers - I have XS Power headers and the rear set has the curve in it. Will this still fit?
I'm gonna have to do this by myself, in my garage Anyone know anyone in the ATL area that might be able to do this for a decent price if I provide ALL the parts?
PS: Sorry for piggybacking this thread, but it's semi-relevant and I didn't want to make a whole new thread when there's a ton out there alreay.
2. You just got make sure you put curve one in rear.
Since you all ready have Type-S engine it would be way better if you have a lift. Reason why is the tranny can be remove from bottom. No reason removing the whole engine an having to deal with remove alots of parts.
All my part was from AcuraCarland@com (they are located an in Gwinnett)
#89
Pro
iTrader: (3)
I did most of the work about 80% mainly got help with how remove some part, hose, an using the shop lift
Before i take it to Alben shop i ready got e-brake done an replace brake pedal an pretty much installed the engine an tranny an other smalls parts.
Here my thread..
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763216
1. No, you have to solder about 15 wire together... ready no big deal about 1 1/2 hour
2. You just got make sure you put curve one in rear.
Since you all ready have Type-S engine it would be way better if you have a lift. Reason why is the tranny can be remove from bottom. No reason removing the whole engine an having to deal with remove alots of parts.
All my part was from AcuraCarland@com (they are located an in Gwinnett)
Before i take it to Alben shop i ready got e-brake done an replace brake pedal an pretty much installed the engine an tranny an other smalls parts.
Here my thread..
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763216
1. No, you have to solder about 15 wire together... ready no big deal about 1 1/2 hour
2. You just got make sure you put curve one in rear.
Since you all ready have Type-S engine it would be way better if you have a lift. Reason why is the tranny can be remove from bottom. No reason removing the whole engine an having to deal with remove alots of parts.
All my part was from AcuraCarland@com (they are located an in Gwinnett)
I'm getting excited
#90
Senior Moderator
yes the clutch reservoir, and i think i saw a different part number then on the accord from the CL (don't totally remember )(i think it's because we got additional relays mounted to it or something )
edit: EVAP solenoid mounts to it...
accord: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
CL: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
edit: EVAP solenoid mounts to it...
accord: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
CL: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
#91
Senior Moderator
Damn...I'll probably have to post up and "rent" lift usage or something. I don't know anyone with a lift. I need to look back under the car at the accessibility. It sounds like if I had all the parts, I could do this in one weekend...assuming everything goes according to plan...
I'm getting excited
I'm getting excited
#93
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
also OP to the rotary, they are a fucking sweet, but maintenance whores some though
#94
Senior Moderator
Taking the 300+lb auto trans out. Its a PIG.
#95
Senior Moderator
the one i want is a one-piece bracket, instead of the two different one, and to that rust
, but a lift makes it A SHIT LOAD easier though (and at times it might have actually been easier on the ground, mainly when yanking, and stuffing the tranny in, mainly because i had to use a ladder, to get to the top to adjust the engine hanger tool (but really not that big of an issue though)
also OP to the rotary, they are a fucking sweet, but maintenance whores some though
, but a lift makes it A SHIT LOAD easier though (and at times it might have actually been easier on the ground, mainly when yanking, and stuffing the tranny in, mainly because i had to use a ladder, to get to the top to adjust the engine hanger tool (but really not that big of an issue though)
also OP to the rotary, they are a fucking sweet, but maintenance whores some though
I see no reason at all to use a lift for this swap other than to lift the car off the auto trans dropping it out the bottom (which can be done with a floor jack)
#96
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but then again if you drop it, and shatter the case, DOES IT REALLY MATTER.... (did not do it to mine though, cause i used a tranny jack, but i have shattered a case though, on a caddy/northstar, it was being a bitch going back in; i had to drop the tranny, to be able to pull the "j-pipe", so then i could change the oil pan gasket :shakehead, then the pan turned out to be warpped instead... [btw the jack slide out; because of the stupid amount of tilt i had to put on it, to try and get it to go back in, cause of the fucking framerail; then it dropped)
one piece, because it is what came on the CL , and i have already special ordered it
and as far as hanging there LMFAO, it's just the hose holding it up there, so it can move sides to side if it wants too lol
Why a one piece? I mean you have it hanging now, why not get a bracket easily findable and mount it?? That was during the fitting stage. I blasted it and painted it.
I see no reason at all to use a lift for this swap other than to lift the car off the auto trans dropping it out the bottom (which can be done with a floor jack)
I see no reason at all to use a lift for this swap other than to lift the car off the auto trans dropping it out the bottom (which can be done with a floor jack)
one piece, because it is what came on the CL , and i have already special ordered it
and as far as hanging there LMFAO, it's just the hose holding it up there, so it can move sides to side if it wants too lol
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-18-2011 at 07:40 PM.
#97
Senior Moderator
1 piece will never make the car be a CL or worth more lol. Just get one so that its mounted
#98
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (8)
Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.
The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
#99
Pro
iTrader: (3)
I hope I don't drop it....lol
Sweet. I'll definitely give you a call if I need help. lol
One thing I haven't seen is how to do the e-brake conversion. Does that require taking up the carpet and moving over the foot e-brake to the center console's CL e-brake? And why wouldn't the auto TL-S icebox fit anymore when I do the 6spd conversion? Or does that only apply to the CL auto vs. manual?
Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.
The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
One thing I haven't seen is how to do the e-brake conversion. Does that require taking up the carpet and moving over the foot e-brake to the center console's CL e-brake? And why wouldn't the auto TL-S icebox fit anymore when I do the 6spd conversion? Or does that only apply to the CL auto vs. manual?
#100
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.
The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
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