chrismeoli

The battery is new, the cables are new, the plugs are new, full tank of gas. I pulled in to Stop and Shop and when I came out to start it - it cranks hard as if it wants to run but doesnt, sometimes it starts up and just gurggles but doesnt stay running - Anyway - I dont want to pay for something I can fix myself, any ideas? All help is GREATLY appreciated at this point. IACV? maybe??

fla-tls

If you can fix it yourself, why do you need our advice?

chrismeoli

I am looking for help diagnosing the problem big guy. whatever needs to be fixed i can handle.

visuelz

I havent really had that problem before but have you checked the motor oil?

03typeStl

What kind of stupid ass reply is that ? the guy is looking for help to find out what the problem might be.

chrismeoli

Thanks, obviously a tough guy, prob upset beacuse he is going bald and his viagra costs alot, who knows. anyhow...

fsttyms1

Have you tried it again? to see if it will run? If it still wont it will most likely have to be towed somewhere to see if its throwing a code.

TLMugen

I was going to suggest the main relay. I've had my car not start a couple times like you describe: cranks over fast but doesn't fire up. With the main relay however, it either starts or it doesn't. Sometimes if I let the car sit for a few minutes and then try to start it, it fires right up. Once I had to wait nearly an hour! Once it starts however, it runs perfectly. The stumbling and gurgling may be due to something else, possibly clogged EGR passages but you'd throw a code if that were the case.

snowman81

Any associated lights? Could a fuel pump cause that? Seems to me like it's not getting fuel if there is no electrical issues (ie. battery, alternator, starter) but I'm no mechanic.

fla-tls

My point was that diagnosing a problem is part of the process of fixing it. If you don't even know how to diagnose what's wrong, how can you hope to fix it? I'm all for someone saving money by doing it themself, but if a person is not car savvy they can get into more problems and cost by trying to fix on their own. If anything - get a friend who knows more about cars to help out.

Relax e-thug.

6spMike

Air, fuel, and spark.
See which one's missing and go from there.
How long ago did you change the plugs and plug wires?
Why did you change the plugs and wires?
Maybe changing the plugs and wires caused a problem.
Maybe the problem you changed the plugs and wires for still exists.
Was the check engine light on before this?
Fuel filter? Fuel Pump? Accident response fuel cutoff switch? These may not throw codes.
Was it hard to start before? Starting is the hardest on the fuel delivery system.
Write down all the symptoms you have, then write down all the failed part guesses, and see which guess fits all the symptoms.
Good Luck!!

chrismeoli

thanks for the help everybody, i am pretty handy with cars, i just know something like this could have multiple causes, i do believe it is electrical because my radio is making clicking noises after i try to start it, and even though the battery has a full charge showing when i hook it up to a meter, the car itself is flashing the low battery indicator light and my "key in ignition reminder light" keeps flashing green even with no key inserted. hope this clears it up, i appreaciate any help on this one guys!

fla-tls

The green key indicator has to do with the immobilizer system and the chip in your key. It's not a reminder light. If it's flashing, that means that the immobilizer is not allowing you to start the car.

A common cause for this is having too many keys (or just too much metal) on your key ring. Take the key off the key ring and try it again by itself.

BLADE RUNNER

How about checking the the tightening of the battery cables and checking the cables for hidden corrosion. Take off the cables, scratch off some of the loose surface with a knife and reattach the cables. When you tighten the cables to the battery dont overtighten and see if the cables will turn on the post. Hopefully, not. Good Luck!

fsttyms1

chrismeoli

thanks everybody - check this out, i might have the solution, hopefully
I called over to autozone, thinking it was the igntion switch nd to see have they had one in stock - the guy i spoke to also drives a TL and mentioned he does not think the car is grounded properly, i told him that was funny because i just changed out the negative cables 2 days before this happened and i thought it was weird the autozone employee only gave me one cable instead of the cable that came out with 2 grounds on it, i mention it o him at the time and gave me some BS about not needing the second ground anymore. hesitant i listened to him and moved on - what do you think? bad ground? go buy the second cable?

fla-tls

Hmm - a car generally has two grounds (a chassis and an engine ground) because the engine is held by rubber mounts which effectively insulate it from the chassis ground.

I don't think a ground is your problem because the engine is turning over. If the engine ground were bad you wouldn't be able to get it to turn over. If the chassis ground were bad, you wouldn't have any lights on in the dash.

Does anyone know if there is a waiting period on the immobilizer system (i.e. use the wrong key three times and you have to wait 20 minutes)?

You can try disconnecting the battery cables, press the brake for a few seconds, and then touching the battery cable ends together for a few seconds to discharge the system. I had a pontiac where I had to do this to get it to start once. The pontiac's problem was probably also related to the security system. Most immobilizer systems will simply cut off fuel - that's why it will turn over but not start.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Bad gas?
Are you very low on fuel?

My car experienced the exact same thing, only it was very low on gas and it was extremely humid outside.

etxxz

the autozone guy might be full of ****. did you try taking the key off the keychain? i'd never heard about that.

grounding problem. doubt it unless you modified/hit something in which case its your fault but if you're engine is turning over then is probably ignition or fuel delivery related.

fuel pump? who knows.
clogged fuel filter: not likely if you stuck after driving.
spark? we dont have 1-2 coils so you gotta check each coilpack~spark plug wires

did you happen to pump diesel into you tank??
my dumb friend just did it last week so i bet is a common thing

amustafa1

I think it might your fuel pump. A similiar problem occured to me. I stopped at a gas station and the car wont start. Only few days later, I come to find out it was the fuel pump. It wasnt my TL, but your problem sounds more like the problem I had with my 325I.

Test out your fuel pump.

Good luck

dwest1023

Sounds like a ground problem to me.

fsttyms1

No waiting period that i know of

fsttyms1

Since you recently just changed teh battery/cables , make sure that teh pos and neg are securly fastened . I and that all grounds are conected. Get teh car somewhere to be tested because all we can do is fill your head with a million different guesses. It could be any number of things.

LSBoogie

If the green picture of the key is flashing when the car is cranking it means the immobilizer unit is kicking in. The car will crank all day long but if the light is flashing it will not start. Try to use a spare "programmed" key or (as mentioned previously) take the key off of your key chain and try again. If the car still cranks and the little key keeps flashing then most likely you have a problem with your immobilizer control unit.

bkzjimmy

u missed something?

us000011

In my humble experience, anytime you put in lotsa new stuff, you also screw something up- check around all areas where something was changed or replaced, and you'll find your problem.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

Best 2 places to check, start with that ground wire, sounds kinda fishy. second distributor rotor and cap, when was the last time they were replaced if that rotor goes itll do exactly what you saying. I had same thing happen on an accord i used to have 6 bucks for the new rotor and it worked right away. Check that out

fsttyms1

The TL doesnt have a distributor cap or rotor. Nor does it have plug wires. It has coils on each plug

MikePA

Let's see;

1. Car is running fine.
2. You incorrectly change the negative battery cable.
3. Soon thereafter, the car wont start.

Hmmm, where to look first? I know, it's the fuel pump. No, it's a clogged fuel filter. Nah, gotta be the coils. Nope, bad fuel.

Rule out the obvious first. Install the correct negative cable and ensure it's securely connected.

Why did you change it in the first place?

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

fsttyms1, thanks i learned something new today, i was wondering why the wires looked so funny that attach to the plug, never knew they were individual coils. Sounds like things will be expensive to replace though.

fsttyms1

About 45 bucks each. Not often they need to be replaced.

chrismeoli

Update guys! so the car is running thank gawd!
The Autozone guy was right, I went and put the secong ground on and the car fired right up like new. Drove it alot after and no problems insight. thanks to all for the help.

fsttyms1

Why did you take it off in th efirst place?

chrismeoli

stupid advice from autozone, i knew better and still listened for some reason! DOOHHH!

CL Platano

Sue them for mental anguish

fla-tls

Authentic American advice.

BLADE RUNNER

Can we sue them for our mental anguish in having to read and think about this thread?