My 2001 TL now runs like a new car
#1
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My 2001 TL now runs like a new car
Hello, my fellow 2g owners. recently I did 2 thing to my car (2001 TL, 159k miles, bought it one year ago when 149k), and it is easily the most improvement to the car.
1. changed both oxygen sensor (upstream and downstream along the exhaust system) with new Densor sensors. the effect is immediate. all those weird issue with engine and tranmission are gone. I think the new sensor provides accurate reading and the engine is not confused anymore and can regulate itself as it should be.
2. it had bothered me since I took over the car one year ago that there was oil leak under car that overnight there were 2 or 3 spots on the drive way or garage. got a tip from YouTube and bought 2 bottle of ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks. 8 ounces to transmission, 3 ounces to power steering wheel fluid, 5 ounce to the engine. after one week (200 miles), now no more leak or new spot on the drive way.
the total cost for both is little shy of $100 (got both from Amazon) but I feel it is the rebirth of the TL.
1. changed both oxygen sensor (upstream and downstream along the exhaust system) with new Densor sensors. the effect is immediate. all those weird issue with engine and tranmission are gone. I think the new sensor provides accurate reading and the engine is not confused anymore and can regulate itself as it should be.
2. it had bothered me since I took over the car one year ago that there was oil leak under car that overnight there were 2 or 3 spots on the drive way or garage. got a tip from YouTube and bought 2 bottle of ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks. 8 ounces to transmission, 3 ounces to power steering wheel fluid, 5 ounce to the engine. after one week (200 miles), now no more leak or new spot on the drive way.
the total cost for both is little shy of $100 (got both from Amazon) but I feel it is the rebirth of the TL.
#2
Mr.Helpful Diagram
So the ATP-205 does work then, Ive seen the video but thought it was just another snake oil lol, tried to find it in local auto parts with no luck guess online is the way to go. Thanks for the post
#5
Hey Dit_rich, welcome.....guests always go first with their "Weird" issues, so what cha got ?
#6
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here is the details
I bought all from Amazon
Denso 234-4621 Oxygen Sensor
Denso 234-4727 Oxygen Sensor
ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle
the weired thing I referred to: sometimes check engine light on with P code (something like high voltage from oxygen). engine choking and hesitating. delay of accelerating which I suspected something wrong with trans. there was a lot of issues I was not happy about engine/trans but now not more.
regarding ATP stop leak reseal, yes, I had doubt at first. then again it is only $9 a bottle so why not give it a shot. I tried and it works like a charm.
go to http://www.densoaftermarket.com/cata....php?part=o2sn to find the actual model fit your TL.
you need 7/8" open end wrench for oxygen sensor replace. (don't buy any oxygen socket as it won't fit for the tight space for upstream sensor).
Denso 234-4621 Oxygen Sensor
Denso 234-4727 Oxygen Sensor
ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle
the weired thing I referred to: sometimes check engine light on with P code (something like high voltage from oxygen). engine choking and hesitating. delay of accelerating which I suspected something wrong with trans. there was a lot of issues I was not happy about engine/trans but now not more.
regarding ATP stop leak reseal, yes, I had doubt at first. then again it is only $9 a bottle so why not give it a shot. I tried and it works like a charm.
go to http://www.densoaftermarket.com/cata....php?part=o2sn to find the actual model fit your TL.
you need 7/8" open end wrench for oxygen sensor replace. (don't buy any oxygen socket as it won't fit for the tight space for upstream sensor).
#7
4th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Westminster, BC
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Thanks 3.2TLc.
Hard to describe - the driving on a low speed is kinda slow... like something is holding the car back... many engine brakes... guess it's because the tranny is rebuilt. Not totally bad but unusual for me - used to much softer driving after my Outback.
Hard to describe - the driving on a low speed is kinda slow... like something is holding the car back... many engine brakes... guess it's because the tranny is rebuilt. Not totally bad but unusual for me - used to much softer driving after my Outback.
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#8
How long have ya had the TL ?
Do ya have a "CEL" lite on ? If so, give us the code for better assistance.
Perhaps the converter is clogged and causing the sluggish behavior ?
Hopefully the rebuilt tranny is holding up for ya, how many miles since the rebuild ?
Do ya have a "CEL" lite on ? If so, give us the code for better assistance.
Perhaps the converter is clogged and causing the sluggish behavior ?
Hopefully the rebuilt tranny is holding up for ya, how many miles since the rebuild ?
#9
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![Yum](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yum.gif)
Anyway, tranny was replaced all right. The car has 262K on it, could not make it on the original one anyway. The question that bothers me though how old thanny is. Acura has no record about replacement. They installed oil jet when I brought the car for inspection (without actually letting me know - I noticed oil jet in a couple of days after looking under the hood). So far I only know tranny serial number - P7W 070 RMK, bar code says M7WA-1039001. Both tags have blue pain smears on them so I guess the tranny is one pre 2005 rebuilt.
Not too many issues with the car so far though. I'd mention only two
- a bit "heavy" driving on low speeds. I cleaned the throttle body, changed tranny oil and it helped a little. Still gas pedal is kinda stiff.
and
- heavy, sometimes jittery steering - I blame slightly leaking ps pump (though my mechanic said it should not effect steering) and bad - Double millage II - tires.
Otherwise I am pretty happy with the car.
![Yum](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yum.gif)
#10
"gas pedal is kinda stiff"
Had the same problem and is very easy to fix. You need to clean the throttle body and plate (especially around the rim) with carb cleaner. It's the carbon gunk making it stick. Then lube the hinge points on the plate.
Had the same problem and is very easy to fix. You need to clean the throttle body and plate (especially around the rim) with carb cleaner. It's the carbon gunk making it stick. Then lube the hinge points on the plate.
#12
It's the round throttle body plate, sometimes called the "butterfly" that opens closes to intake air when you press the gas. You need to clean it really well around the rim, behind it and the hinges on each side with carb cleaner. Then lightly oil the hinges when done.
You can also clean and oil the spring hinge mechanism behind your accelerator pedal.
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