acutee

From reading about mobil 1 synthetic oil, it appears that many have issues with 5w-30, where m1 0w-20 or 0w-30 works better. There are diff additives break point between 0w and 5w. Some reported 5w-30 itself has oil consumption issue, where switching to valvoline, castrol synthetic or pennzoil platinum synthetic resolves the oil consumption problem. Many reported pennzoil plantinum oil test results shows better test then mobil 1 5w-30, and pennzoil platinum is cheaper too. Any input to share the thought is appreciated.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I used to use M1 5-30W before I installed the S/C'er on my CLS-6 back on '05. There were times when I noticed increased consumption. After the S/C'er went in I bumped up to M1 10-30W and have been using it ever since with no noticeable consumption issues.

acutee

On M1, current SM rated 0w20 and 0w30 are still using PAO or Group IV base oil because the low temerature pump requirements. The older SL oil are pure synthetic. Thus, m1 5w in Group III is probably not fully synthetic.

German Castrol is the only PAO based synthetic in Castrol's lineup.
Amsoil's non-XL oils are pure synthetic.
Redline's oil are ester based Group IV, also considered synthetic.

Mobil sued Castrol in 1999, because BP used the word "synthetic" to market its Syntec oil, which were based on Group III mineral oil refined from petrolum crude. Mobil lost the lawsuit, therefore, anyone can legally market Group III oil as synthetic in the U.S.
Mobil Japan has listed "hydroprocessed", which is another word for highly refined Group III, as content on 5w30 weight oil. In Europe and Japan, it is considered false advertising to market Group III as synthetic oil.

AlanW

Mobile 1 5W-30 Extended Mileage Synthetic vs. new Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic..
Currently using Mobile 1 5W30 Extended Mileage synthetic for 10,000 miles with no oil usage. However, thinking of switching to Pennzoil Platinum synthetic next oil change...

Anyone have any relevant thoughts on that?

01tl4tl

been on the penz with no useage issue..regardless of what good oil I use, no consumption issues

engines do use a small amount of oil as it gets past the piston rings-
it happens

1blwn_accord

ive been using mobile 1 5w-30 full synthetic and i have no issues...

01tl4tl

have to admit,,use penz plat most of the time,,but m1 went in last time because it was on sale~
the engine doesnt care

Gfaze

Valvoline SynPower user here. No issues whatsoever.

gold2003tl (90)

currently running 5w-20 valvoline conventional, no consumption problems at all, i like the oil very much and it was cheap. i plan on switching to a 5w-20 full synthetic, either mobil 1 extended performance, castrol edge, valvoline max life syn (or syn power), or pennzoil platinum.

still cant make up my mind on what brand to choose. I am set on getting 5w-20 since i do lots of short trips/cold starts. any suggestions?

fsttyms1

I have run nothing but 5w30 and when it was Mobil 1 i never had any consumption. Even on the 15k plus intervals i would only be down 1/2 a quart

01tl4tl

lots of short trips- cold weather: go with any name brand synthetic -its better for those uses
0w-20 for extreme cold areas-below freezing,,the w means Winter
5w-30 everywhere else
the first number is viscosity- ability to flow measured at 32f
the second number is viscosity at 200-220f, normal oil operating temp

both viscosities are created by the additives in oil,,its more likely a 15 with modifiers to reach the numbers given

30 is better protection for engine life
gen2 only went 5-20 to fool cafe standards

gold2003tl (90)

iv heard about this whole 5w-20 fool cafe shit, to meet emissions and better fuel economy, it does sound like a bunch of garbage. but did honda change engine tolerances for when they went 20 weight oil? or did they just change the oil cap, and say lets put 5w-20 in an engine designed for 5w-30. i have heard stories that putting 5w-30 in an engine that recommends 5w-20 could starve components of oil, because of tighter tolerances. i doubt thats true for the 2g TL engines that recommend 5w-20. my oil cap says 5w-20, and that stuff pured like water! i never felt confidant about using 5w-20, other than cold starts. during this past summer it was 102 outside and my car was running HOT(not overheating), wish i had a 30 weight oil.

thinking about going 5w-30, or even a good syn 0w-30 for sub freezing. weather.

your input,01tl4tl?

RC99TL

Mobil-1 10w-30 since new and no issues or oil loss - other than my weeping front engine cover. Going to do a valve adjustment at 160 thou (I know I'm late) and I will see if there is any wear on the valve train. My 89 Crx Si also running Mobil-1 10-30 since new did not need a single adjustment on any of the valves at 60 thousand. In fact the back side of the cams still have the factory moly coating!
And I now use Bosch filters as I have been scared off of the Frams!

webmastir

The Fram TG's are fine to use. I recently watched the vid on youtube that had someone opening all the big named oil filters & properly compared each ones material/build/design. Obviously, Amsoil's was the best, but Fram TG help up the same against M1-EP/Bosch others..

I'll prob finally switch off of M1-EP filters to the Fram ToughGard, since they are a few $$ cheaper & built the same

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

TG or do you mean XG? I read the TG is only slightly better then EG in construction and XG is where the real difference is.

They did not change the engine internals when they switched over to 5w-30. It is said that 0w-30 and 0w-20 is compatable with engines using 5w oils that want better fuel economy. I would probably just run those oils in winter.

01tl4tl

your owner book and gen3s allow 5-20 or 5-30,,the latter suggested for higher ambient tremps (summer)

Im not up on the zero weights- if you can get only in a 0-20,, or a 0-30 is available
If I lived where its that cold, 0-20 would be my choice- definetly a full synthetic,
filter your choice,,maybe seafoam oil and drive an hour before change
get rid of any sludge so the passages are flowing fully

01tl4tl

gold- your car was running HOW HOT?
more than the normal just under half on the guage?
ck out the rad cap and coolant condition- old coolant doesnt work as well

regardless of load, cooling system should keep the guage steady

gold2003tl (90)

think ill use 10w or 5w-30 for summer, and 0w or 5w-20 for winter, or just run a good 0w-30 year around (hard to find). doesn't seem like our engines care if you switch between 20 and 30. i seafoamed on my last oil change and it defiantly got a lot of crap out of the engine, great stuff! either way full synthetic.

gold2003tl (90)

just open the hood and get hit with a massive heat wave kinda hot. come back 2 hours later and still not be able to keep my hand on the IM for more than 1 sec. my coolant is oem, 8.5 years old, prob time for a change. gauge was steady just below half, but who knows it could have been faulty, it was 102 outside past summer.

fsttyms1

Just stick with a good 5w30 or 5w20. There is NO need to switch to a lower for winter and higher for summer. I prefer 5w30 and run that in my type-s motor.

gold2003tl (90)

sounds good, ill stick with a 5w-30.

jaMezBOI

iTrader: (3)

I switched to mobil 1 extended performance 5w-30 awhile back and have had no issues.

gold2003tl (90)

^ i recently put mobil 1 EP 5w-30 in our family van, Mazda MPV, made her run smoother, quieter, better pick up. good stuff. i was impressed with the oil.

01tl4tl

the only exception to the 5w-30 all year is ziners living in areas far too cold for normal humans

then a 0w-20 would be better in the morning

you want flow immedialty, and protection when warm as the parts slam against each other at high speed

01tl4tl

the science of additives in oil to make it behave like a different weight than it is--I am no expert,,,but do know:
5-30 is neither ,,its about a 20 with stuff added to make it ~behave~ like the numbers given

gold-
get the coolant changed asap--the oe stuff is supposed to be good for 7 years- then any replacement done every 5 years
the additive package in it goes acidic and eats aluminum

new coolant really makes a differance in its abilty to transfer heat and expel it

replace the rad cap as general preventative maitenance

a harsh la nina' winter is headed our way--time to get on the prep, lube rubber door/trunk seals with silicone spray,
ck all drain lines on sunroof and doors, engine and trunk etc
seafoam and oil change,,Im overdue--

Oh no! will my engine blow up if I reset the light and didnt really change the oil????
will the car know??? or ever forgive me?

webmastir

i hear that a lot (on different car forums) to change the rad cap. why is this such a needed thing to do? i don't think i've ever had a problem on any car i've used in my days, some were pretty darn old cars. i've never replaced mine on my '03 (170k miles) yet. i know it's a cheapass thing to replace, but what could happen if you don't?

fsttyms1

Because the system is pressurized. If the cap starts to fail, it will not allow the system to operate properly and it can lead to overheating.